I am stumped
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Bypass the KILL SWITCH for a start. Two wires under the tank, right side. If the problem goes away, you found it, if not, on to the next connection. -
.......pretty much follows 'rule of thumb'..........pri./sec. ignition before fueling is 99.5% good advice for tracking a running issue. Very little time needed to check all the notorious locations, under tanktop left side of frame plug-in that voltage is spot equal to voltage across that plug-in as batt. voltage, key on of course. If not, kill switch needs to come apart and ALL of it including switch dropped in EvaporRust. Makes the switch insert bright again like new. Ignition switch contacts is your other source that is common for voltage drops, in that circuit. Should be taken apart and cleaned same way, but I cheated and removed the little tin protector cover off bottom of switch and sprayed vigoriously, electrical contact cleaner till all the dark crud rolled out. Realize that some of that was old lube, but gave me the location of a missing 1 1/2 volts. The other 1 1/2 missing volts was at the kill switch.......problem solvedNo I didn't TC but spraying quick start around the carbs and boots etc does not result in any RPM increase so I'm pretty sure they are sealed.
I just exchanged a few messages with Mack who gave my carbs the once over and he tells me he found no issue with them.
This means the issue is ignition / electrical related so now I really don't know what to look at next.
I guess I will have to check every connection and component one by one if I ever find the time.
Rob
. Hope this helps you 'shelve' the frustrations
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No I didn't TC but spraying quick start around the carbs and boots etc does not result in any RPM increase so I'm pretty sure they are sealed.
I just exchanged a few messages with Mack who gave my carbs the once over and he tells me he found no issue with them.
This means the issue is ignition / electrical related so now I really don't know what to look at next.
I guess I will have to check every connection and component one by one if I ever find the time.
RobLeave a comment:
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Hey Rob,
I didn't go back and reread the whole thread, but I think I remember you saying you swapped carbs as well. Did you take OFF the intake boots, inspect, clean their connection/mounting surface to the head, as well as the intake boot caps? JAT?
T.C.Leave a comment:
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Well Rob, you have 7 other bikes to play with.
Is the '79 your favorite?Last edited by Blank Slate; 05-17-2015, 06:13 PM.Leave a comment:
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So I was out last night for a run and she is missing worse than before. Cant hold and consistent RPM and really get erratic above 5K
RobLeave a comment:
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My bet is dielectric grease. No need to clean all connections over, I would just unplug them all and plug them back in. I fixed mine on the side of the road that way when 2 cylinders cut out.Leave a comment:
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almost ready to get rid of mine to
These carb problems got me thinking of 4 wheels again alsoLeave a comment:
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I'll check that for fun next time I have time to work on it.
I intend to use it as is for nothing other then around town recreational use. I'm so discouraged at this point that I am seriously considering parting it out. I have spent enough money on this bike to own something much newer and much more reliably.
RobLeave a comment:
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No change
So to date I have tested with:
different TCI boxes,
different coils and high performance coils
different pick up coils
different and new spark plugs
different plug caps
different carbs
new fuel
full charged battery
So, I guess this is as good as it gets and that's that. I now wish I had taken the 5k I was offered for this bike last summer ....Leave a comment:

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