Hey Mes how many bolts are there around the cap of the middle drive? Three or four? I can't tell from the pix. I bought a middle drive off fleabay that was wrong as it only had holes there for three bolts. Same symptoms as what you had and are having. Sometimes it worked and other times it wouldn't "catch".
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It most definitely seems as tough the problem somewhere between the final drive and the rear wheel.
If it were me I would pull the rear wheel and inspect the splines and the cushion drive, then pull the final drive and inspect......ect. ect.......until I found what's broken.Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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noise
He says the noise is around the middle drive though. The only things in that area are the U joint itself and the drive shaft spines, the middle drive itself, the middle drive gear assembly and the countershaft drive gear lower down. Hopefully the last two aren't the issue but the countershaft drive gear can be replaced w/o spliting the cases. I'm not aware of anyway to work on the middle drive assy w/o splitting the cases. Hopefully, it's the drive shaft splines so pulling the rear wheel may be inevitable. Should be done anyway to ensure the final drive/drive shaft has been greased. But one thing at a time. Lets find the source first, fix that, then talk him through the required preventive maintenance aspects.mack
79 XS 1100 SF Special
HERMES
original owner
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg
81 XS 1100 LH MNS
SPICA
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg
78 XS 11E
IOTA
https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA
Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
Frankford, Ont, Canada
613-398-6186
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The sound may transfer to the middle drive area from wherever the problem is.
Might be a good idea to see if the u-joint is turning when things are slipping with the wheel on the ground.
That would say for certain if it's before, after, or in the middle drive.Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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Drive train
Ok Mes. Here's what your looking at from end to end. Cuz your new I took the time to video all the components so you understand the complete system. Hopefully this will help you since we can't be there with you to see, hear or feel it.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCwMkFsKfWAmack
79 XS 1100 SF Special
HERMES
original owner
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg
81 XS 1100 LH MNS
SPICA
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg
78 XS 11E
IOTA
https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA
Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
Frankford, Ont, Canada
613-398-6186
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Mack
You are the best. Hands down..... that is what I was trying to accomplish with manual leads etc.... I have always lived by the principle that a picture is worth a thousand words... a video and your explanation ... priceless.
Mes.... there you go .... he made it as easy as he could for you to follow.
Get to wrenching and let us all know what is happening. The suspense is killing us and I am sure you as well.2 - 80 LGs bought one new
81 LH
02 FXSTB Nighttrain
22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
Jim
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Mack that torn apart motor isn't sitting on the good kitchen towels is it??Billy
1982 XJ1100, Ceramic Coated Headers, Raptor ACCT, Barnett Clutch Springs, Dremmel Fix, TC's Fuse Block, De-Linked S/S Brake Lines, 850 Final Drive, Yahman's YICS Eliminator, Pods, stock jets
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Originally posted by ViperRon View PostI saw the videos and they give me a different perception than I first had. I thought the drive train would bind up under power. What yours does is totally break loose no resistance. Before you get into the engine can I get you to verify one thing for me. You may have done this but if you have engine off put in high gear key off tilt on stand and see if you can by hand forcefully rotate the rear wheel. The other way would be to take the rubber boot loose to see the U joint and run the bike in gear and see if the U joint is spinning. I may have missed you testing this previous but with the problem getting worse and as little noise as I hear it could be issues with the final drive.
While in neutral, the shaft/joint would complete full revolutions. While in gear, however, it would not. I can't remember exactly what was happening but I believe it would rotate about 180* when in gear. I can do this again to be sure and report back.79 SF
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Originally posted by skids View PostHey Mes how many bolts are there around the cap of the middle drive? Three or four? I can't tell from the pix. I bought a middle drive off fleabay that was wrong as it only had holes there for three bolts. Same symptoms as what you had and are having. Sometimes it worked and other times it wouldn't "catch".79 SF
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Originally posted by mack View PostOk Mes. Here's what your looking at from end to end. Cuz your new I took the time to video all the components so you understand the complete system. Hopefully this will help you since we can't be there with you to see, hear or feel it.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCwMkFsKfWA
Wow, thank you. I don't know what to say.
Unfortunately, I'm at work right now and will be until midnight tonight. I'm off tomorrow and will head over to my parent's house to check all these various ideas out on the bike in the morning. I'll report back as soon as I can.79 SF
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Originally posted by mack View PostWell Mes, your getting close to solving this riddle. As suggested, pull back the boot and diconnect the four bolts at the drive shaft connection. Start it up and listen to see if you still have the noise. If not, life is good.Probably the U-joint drive shaft connection. If so then you need to pull the middle drive off. Life can still be good. Start it again and see if you still have the sound. If not then life is good still. A middle drive swap is all thats needed. If you still have the sound while running in gear then life just took a down turn. It's most likely the middle drive gear and not the drive itself. This would not be good.
I'll follow this process tomorrow.79 SF
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Originally posted by BA80 View PostThe sound may transfer to the middle drive area from wherever the problem is.
Might be a good idea to see if the u-joint is turning when things are slipping with the wheel on the ground.
That would say for certain if it's before, after, or in the middle drive.'79 XS11 F
Stock except K&N
'79 XS11 SF
Stock, no title.
'84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws
"What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~
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get on with it !
These guys are here to help, open er up and find the problem.79 1100 SF Carmine Red stock
85 Honda v65 Magna
70 Yamaha HS1 90cc twin Californian Orange
02 Road King (retirement gift)
First bike-s 2-1967 Yamaha YM2C Big Bear Scramblers
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That rear wheel should not rotate as far as you were saying 180. At most maybe 5 or six inches with extreme wear in the drive chain. My thought is either a spline connection or the gear going into the final drive because these are common failure points. The only good way to lubricate them is by taking apart and hand packing. Many believe grease going into the zirk fitting lubes it but it will not. As mentioned download the manual from the web site on the final drive it will help you identify exactly what the problem is. If you find the gear or spline failed you really need to clean all of the assembly out. I have found the high pressure car wash sprayers work well and dry it with hair dryer. If you identify the actual final drive just get one off Ebay.To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.
Rodan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
1980 G Silverbird
Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
1198 Overbore kit
Grizzly 660 ACCT
Barnett Clutch Springs
R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
122.5 Main Jets
ACCT Mod
Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
Antivibe Bar ends
Rear trunk add-on
http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/
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