79 xs11 special NOW Electrical issues

[tyhodge07]

If I touch the line in from batt nut on the solenoid to the red wire solder joint, the button works. Anyone experience this and is this a fix with fixing the solder or something inside?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Ty,

Okay, the Starter Solenoid...the thing the large battery cables are bolted to before they go to the starter motor..should have 2 small wires...the red/white one which is the power, and the blue/white one which is the GROUND that goes to the starter button...where it then gets connected to GROUND when you push it in....or at least it's supposed to...but it often can corrode in the handlebar switch assembly....so you may need to take it apart, clean and ensure the switch housing it making good contact with the handlebars....it grounds to the bars to the engine, etc.!

You can take a jumper wire, connect one end to the frame/ground, and then touch it to the solder joint of the blue/white wire on the starter solenoid and see IF the starter engages. If it does, then the handlebar switch is corroded, or at least not grounding. IF the solenoid doesn't throw to make the starter motor turn, then the solenoid may be defective.

Don't forget to check the Emergency stop/shut of switch in the handlebar assembly as well...they also corrode....preventing flow....you can temporarily connect the black/white wire to the black wire in the ER switch to rule things out. The switch splits/breaks this circuit to stop the bike, but connects it to start/run!

T.C.

[BA80]

Also, if you changed the bars I believe the SF starter switch is grounded through the bars by a metal tab that makes contact when the switch housing is clamped to the bars. If it isn't making good contact the starter switch won't work

If you remove the housing you'll see what I'm talking about.

[tyhodge07]

I haven't received new bars yet. Put stock back on for the grounding purpose s. The switch housing and such is clean no corrosion at all. The solenoid pos in had some rusty corrosion on it along with the red/white wire. Going to clean that and do a fresh solder.

[jetmechmarty]

Check the main harness connector under the fuel tank. A poor connection there is suspect as well.

[tyhodge07]

I went through all the connections. What looked. Dirty was cleaned, etc. I resoldered the solenoid and cleaned up, no luck. Just ordered one off eBay for 9.50. Will see when it arrives. Next will be buying a batt, this one tested bad cell. Go figure.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Ty,

Sorry you went ahead and ordered a new solenoid. With the new info about your battery with a dead cell....you can put a car battery JUMPED to the terminals and test the starter that way without worry about hurting the electronics.

Also the solenoid can be rebuilt....often it's just a busted wire or loose solder joint inside. 3Phase/Scott posted a how to take it apart/fix it a little while back, a quick search should reveal it.

T.C.

[tyhodge07]

My fuses are making terrible contacts. I'm going to upgrade and to a more common fuse style. Would this be good

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GX3ZFJ4/..._OcdStb1T3YZQG

[bikerphil]

Yes, that is the one. If you order that same one from Topcat he will throw in the right angle connectors.

[TopCatGr58]

That unit is SIMILAR to the ones I provide, but a different manufacturer, I can't find who actually makes them....just the Amazon store. Found a site online with same name: www.docooler.com but the fuseblock wasn't on their site/catalog of products!? The Amazon one doesn't have any actual SPECS, as to what fuse rating it can handle, total amount of amps for each branch as well as total for whole block??

I placed a new order for 10 more a few days ago, takes a few days for them to arrive UPS, then I'll be able to ship out. And yes, for just a little more than the Amazon with shipping I provide the fuseblock and a set of 12 crimpon insulated 90 degree connectors...top quality grade stuff.

T.C.

[tyhodge07]

Hey tc, mark me down for 1 when they come in. I would love to run the better easier to find fuses. Lol

[tyhodge07]

I got the handlebars today and installed (pics to come later) and a couple things bother me, one is the front brake setup doesn't have enough room really and a lengthy hose hangs. The other is the clutch cable, which can be taken care of easily if the front brake is removed.

So, what's your opinions on ditching the front brakes. I've done some searching and have seen some tests where the front and rear brake used at the same time, doesn't give any quicker braking. I obviously have 2 legs so the back brake will get used all the time. So if I remove and remove rotors off front wheel and disconnect the wiring will I have any issues with that being gone, or with it starting with the wiring removed, etc.

[3Phase]

Do! Not! Remove! The! Front! Brakes!

Ty,

Just in case you overlooked the BOLD subtitle:

Do! Not! Remove! The! Front! Brakes!

.

[tyhodge07]

What's more of a reason to why not (as why doesn't seem like it would cross your mind any, lol)

[3Phase]

What's more of a reason to why not (as why doesn't seem like it would cross your mind any, lol)

Put down the tools and step away from the motorcycle!

Please.