Slight Ticking Noise After Head Replacement

[D0wn5h1ft]

Replaced my head because I bent the valves in the last one and now I'm getting a really annoying tick on the left side of the engine. It sounds like it's coming from the exhaust side of the head towards the top. I just put new exhaust gaskets in there so I can't imagine that it's an exhaust leak (because I know they sound a lot like a tick). When I went to put the head on I checked all the valve clearances and swapped the shims I needed to get it back into spec. The sound happens only on one cycle but I can't isolate which cycle it happens on. I pulled each spark plug to make sure it wasn't a detonation issue and the tick still persisted. If it was an exhaust leak I'd hear it regardless of whether the spark plug was in or not.

Any ideas? Is there any way I can be sure it's not an exhaust leak?

[IanDMacDonald]

Yup, tighten-down those flange nuts after the bike is at operating temp. The tick could also be just from the clearances being correct, and ur not used to it. I have noises on my bike that I cannot identify, yet not sure they're okay, but I ride the hell out of the bike, and it still runs.

[D0wn5h1ft]

Yup, tighten-down those flange nuts after the bike is at operating temp. The tick could also be just from the clearances being correct, and ur not used to it. I have noises on my bike that I cannot identify, yet not sure they're okay, but I ride the hell out of the bike, and it still runs.

That's the thing. It runs great but the tick is only on the left side. I guess it's just frustrating because I never had this issue with the old head.

[D0wn5h1ft]

I got on those header bolts good and the tick is gone. Thanks.

[motoman]

FWIW, a little smear of high-temp grey silicone holds them in place and seals any non-comforming spot. Any removal later on, and one of those cushy purple abrasive pads for end of a Dremel remove the silicone and polish that recess area clean for the next header install.

[D0wn5h1ft]

FWIW, a little smear of high-temp grey silicone holds them in place and seals any non-comforming spot. Any removal later on, and one of those cushy purple abrasive pads for end of a Dremel remove the silicone and polish that recess area clean for the next header install.

And by header I mean the head nuts

[IanDMacDonald]

I remember when I first got my 750 ready to go and was trying to install that heavy header pipe and keep those gaskets in-place. Sooooo frustrating. U get the pipes in-place and don't realize one of the flanges fell down the pipe and the frame downtube prevents it from sliding back up. Take it back off, bring the flange back up, gasket falls out. I think I used rope caulk to hold 'em in, then used rope caulk at another point on-top of old gaskets, lol. When I got my 11, I saw Moto's tip with the grease, and those gaskets have never been an issue. However, I have yet to buy a set that had the adhesive backing that some have talked about.

[Radioguylogs]

And by header I mean the head nuts

Gabe: Glad to hear you found the HEAD GASKET was leaking and it and was so easy to fix.

[D0wn5h1ft]

Gabe: Glad to hear you found the HEAD GASKET was leaking and it and was so easy to fix.

After riding today I found that it has come back a bit. It only appears once the bike is warm which leads me to believe one of my valves has too much clearance. I know the shop I only had a 270 to swap when I really needed a 275 so I think that is it. Warm oil is thinner and thus I think that is why it only starts once the bike is hot.

[MPittma100]

Tick

After riding today I found that it has come back a bit. It only appears once the bike is warm which leads me to believe one of my valves has too much clearance. I know the shop I only had a 270 to swap when I really needed a 275 so I think that is it. Warm oil is thinner and thus I think that is why it only starts once the bike is hot.

If tightening the header nuts made it go away, I suspect that you will need to replace the gaskets.

A few thousandths of an inch valve lash is not going to necessarily cause this noise.

Mike

[D0wn5h1ft]

If tightening the header nuts made it go away, I suspect that you will need to replace the gaskets.

A few thousandths of an inch valve lash is not going to necessarily cause this noise.

Mike

I though tightening the head gasket is what did it but it was actually just me letting it cool down before turning it back on again (engine was too got at the time to get in there with a ratchet). The head gasket is brand spanking new and there are no signs of leaking anywhere so it was just a coincidence that made me think that.

My clearance on the number #3 exhaust lifter is too high and I knew that putting it back together. I just didn't expect it to make that much noise. The clearance is at .12 when it should be .8 - .10 so I guess it's my fault for hoping it'd be fine. Is there any potential harm that can come to the lifter or cam with it being out of spec that little bit? I know these valves beat themselves into the head so theoretically it should go away with time.

[bikerphil]

I wouldn't worry too much about a slight ticking, I'm running a head that has 130K+ miles on it and has a slight tick I can't get rid of, It's been doing it for years and many miles now. Takes a licking but keeps on ticking. GL

Edit: Possible the cam lobe is worn a bit, any debris in the oil tends to first attack the lobes for Cyl. #1, that is where the oil pools from bike sitting on the side stand.

[D0wn5h1ft]

I wouldn't worry too much about a slight ticking, I'm running a head that has 130K+ miles on it and has a slight tick I can't get rid of, It's been doing it for years and many miles now. Takes a licking but keeps on ticking. GL

Edit: Possible the cam lobe is worn a bit, any debris in the oil tends to first attack the lobes for Cyl. #1, that is where the oil pools from bike sitting on the side stand.

The cams came out of my old head that never ticked...hmmm. When I'm all moved in my place I'll see if I can't swap that 270 shim in for a 275. I'm still not sure if .12 clearance on the exhaust would cause a tick but who knows.

Correction: when I said #3 I meant #2 exhaust valve

[mack]

clearances

When the clearances are in the correct range, these motors are noisy. They are suposed to be. It is annoying if you have a fairing but I listen to mine and it lets me know that everything is in spec. When it gets quite is when you worry. Just like having kids.

[BA80]

When I adjusted the valves on my SF it sounded like it was going to fly apart any minute. The thing ran like a raped ape.

Rode it to Wisconsin and back before I sold it. I figure about 2000 miles including the rides during the rally. Never even hiccupped.

BTW, you get lousy gas mileage at 90 or 100 MPH.