Rear brake lock up

[Punisher]

I am experiencing a problem with the rear break locking up after riding for a short period of time. I understand that this is a problem that is well known throughout the XS11 community. I have purchase a used caliper and installed it on the bike with new pads, and performed bleeding. I have had no success in restoring the rear breaks as of yet. I have a rebuild kit and want to rebuild the caliper. The piston is stuck in the caliper that was replaced. I would like to know if the piston can be removed and the caliper rebuilt? If so what is the procedure to remove the piston and rebuild the caliper? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[Axel]

Maybe

Search forum for Spooge hole , may have some bearing on your problem .

[IanDMacDonald]

Sure you can. Easiest way for me was to stuff a rag into the hollow recess of the piston, place the caliper face-down into a box of rags or whatever, and blow compressed air into the hole where the banjo bolt was. Piston will pop-out with speed, so no fingers or fine china in the area. Other option is a grease gun or using your brake system. Check for wear & tear on the piston. Any heavy pitting, rust, gouges, etc., should junk the piston and order new from HVC. Caliper and M/C should be re-built, with thoughts of upgrading brake lines as well. There are threads on here regarding re-building the rear brake system. Go ahead and use the search feature, and u'll find plenty.

[motoman]

I am experiencing a problem with the rear break locking up after riding for a short period of time. I understand that this is a problem that is well known throughout the XS11 community. I have purchase a used caliper and installed it on the bike with new pads, and performed bleeding. I have had no success in restoring the rear breaks as of yet. I have a rebuild kit and want to rebuild the caliper. The piston is stuck in the caliper that was replaced. I would like to know if the piston can be removed and the caliper rebuilt? If so what is the procedure to remove the piston and rebuild the caliper? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Might wanna check area where pedal shaft goes thru. It IS the notorius area of rear braking issues if bike has sat neglected exposed to elements. There is no grease zerk for lubrication of pivot, and its free movement gets restricted from rust.

[James England]

Might wanna check area where pedal shaft goes thru. It IS the notorius area of rear braking issues if bike has sat neglected exposed to elements. There is no grease zerk for lubrication of pivot, and its free movement gets restricted from rust.

There is a Zerk fitting..under a plastic cover at the end of the shaft. The cover has the word 'grease' on it. Or is this just on European models??

[motoman]

There is a Zerk fitting..under a plastic cover at the end of the shaft. The cover has the word 'grease' on it. Or is this just on European models??

Not the case for 80-81's here Stateside James.

[James England]

Not the case for 80-81's here Stateside James.

Now that is interesting! I mean, why would they change the design of such an important part? The brake pedals here often get cruddy looking with all that enthusiastically applied grease which splurges out especially on the inner side of the alloy hanger...but stops them seizing up...

[motoman]

Now that is interesting! I mean, why would they change the design of such an important part? The brake pedals here often get cruddy looking with all that enthusiastically applied grease which splurges out especially on the inner side of the alloy hanger...but stops them seizing up...

location....location....location.....

[TopCatGr58]

Now that is interesting! I mean, why would they change the design of such an important part? The brake pedals here often get cruddy looking with all that enthusiastically applied grease which splurges out especially on the inner side of the alloy hanger...but stops them seizing up...

Hey James,

Not ALL of the USA has the same 11 months of wet foggy weather that the UK has , so less constant rust problems. Also, it was probably cheaper to make!

T.C.

[motoman]

Hey James,

Not ALL of the USA has the same 11 months of wet foggy weather that the UK has , so less constant rust problems. Also, it was probably cheaper to make!

T.C.

.......specially since Mother Yammy already knew the model was going away anyways with the XJ and the dollars saved in production could be better well spent on ignition design improvements and such.

[bikerphil]

None of the Specials have that zerk, the 78-80 Standards do.

[mjpxs11sh]

+

suggestion from experience. time to remove rear brake system. its beneficial to have an air compressor. remove rear master cyl, add your old caliper and bench clean parts. clean the master tiny spooge return hole with a guitar string or something similar, clean and blow out, remove piston w compressed air. rebuild w new parts, rubbing new brake fluid inside caliper and around a good piston. reinstall and bleed. check to make sure theres proper clearance between rear rotor and pads so as to not to rub.
i know there are tech pages dedicated to this common issue.
good luck!

[natemoen]

Yeah, I was going to say that my '78 has that grease zerk there. I don't have the cool plastic cover though...

[motoman]

Yeah, I was going to say that my '78 has that grease zerk there. I don't have the cool plastic cover though...

.....bet James could fix ya' up.........but then you'd want the Euro pegs,shifter, ect...

[MPittma100]

Brake Lock Up

In conclusion, do all of the above: Rebuild the caliper with new piston and rebuild kit. Rebuild master cylinder with new kit. Replace brake lines with new - either rubber or preferably stainless steel. Check and or replace brake pads. Remove, clean, and lubricate brake shaft and hole where it goes through in frame.

Bottom line is you will have repaired any and everything that is involved in a 30+ year old system and it will now be ready to work for 30+ more years.

MP