I can't get my carb's tuned properly with exhaust and pods. ):

[Dylano*]

Also, I but everything the cheapest I can get it... Almost always eBay.

[Dylano*]

Yes I agree, $120 saved is worth it... IF they would both be done in at the same time... BUT I'd gladly spend $120 if that means I can ride the bike and call it mostly DONE a week sooner..

I've been building this bike for quite some time now, and getting it running great is the last step before ...taking it apart again to clean everything up better haha

But really... I got everything rigged 90% and just want to make it run good and ride-able. THEN I will take apart one section at a time (triple tree/side panels/etc. to bead blast and paint.) Each of those things only taking a day and the bike still being a now ride-able project!

That's the goal anyways.

I'll probably end up doing the valves myself, but man, I just wanna ride the thing!


P.S. of course it's a contest, and YES you are winning! haha

[natemoen]

Sorry, they have went up in price to $5.95. I still stand buy my less than $80 to do it though...

http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/motor_parts/valve_shims.html

[natemoen]

I think I MIGHT take it somewhere to get the valves done...
If the guy will do it for $200. He quoted me over the phone ($200-$300)
That will save me MUCH time and effort... I mean I could do them myself...
BUT they shims are much more expensive than I imagined,
and that would be MUCH more wait time to get the shims and the tools all together

Sound ok?

No, but it is your money I guess....

You can get new, unused shims for $5 online. So even if you had to buy all 8 shims and the tool we will say on the high side it would cost you $80. That extra $120 could buy a lot of other things....

[3Phase]

Alright! All of that sounds good.. except the order of operations...

Dylano,

There is a reason for the order. I'm not just trying to mess with your mind, man but it's your bike, your time and your labor.

Where are you buying the shims? There are better deals around but on eBay you can buy shims for ~$6 to $9 each or two shim kits for ~$200 but it's your bike and money:-

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...9MM+VALVE+SHIM

Also, I just wanna say again how awesome this forum is...

Thanks, we know!

I'm also a member on FZR Online... those people are a**holes!!!
Seriously, almost no helpful info, just smart ass remarks and stuff.

Oh! Goody! A CONTEST! <twirls waxed mustache>

.

[Dylano*]

Also, I just wanna say again how awesome this forum is...
I'm also a member on FZR Online... those people are a**holes!!!
Seriously, almost no helpful info, just smart ass remarks and stuff.

[Dylano*]

Alright! All of that sounds good.. except the order of operations...

HOPEFULLY this is what will happen this weekend:
Ill get my jets, and my yics tool.
I'll sync my carbs,
then rejet to get it running as good as I can...
BECAUSE.. I think I MIGHT take it somewhere to get the valves done...
If the guy will do it for $200. He quoted me over the phone ($200-$300)
That will save me MUCH time and effort... I mean I could do them myself...
BUT they shims are much more expensive than I imagined,
and that would be MUCH more wait time to get the shims and the tools all together

After the valves are done I'll re-sync my carbs, and re-jet if need be.

Sound ok?

[MPittma100]

Valve Clearances

\

Well what would you consider too much?
You already suggested I make them looser than the tolerances suggest!

Since valve train wear lessens the valve clearance, the rule of thumb is to set the valves at the maximum, no more. So if your spec. is .004-.007, set the clearance at .007.

Mike

[3Phase]

Dylano,

Tuning the depends on the mechanical state of the engine. How much do you want to spend for new shims right now, this minute? If you go for the max valve clearance you'll need to buy more shims.

Again -- did you check the engine when it was cold or hot? It makes a difference in the clearances measured and Yamaha only gives the specs for cold clearances and cylinder pressures.


Adjust the valve clearances with the engine cold.

Remove all four spark plugs and check the cylinder compression with the engine cold.

Check the ignition system: ignition and pick-up coil resistances; spark plug gaps; spark plug wire resistances.

Check and adjust the fuel level in the carburetor float bowls.

Sync the carbs.

Make carburetor jetting changes.

.

[Dylano*]

Oh also another random question for you guys.

What is the normal operating temperature range for these xj1100's?
I'm considering installing a temperature gauge, and also wondering where I should hook it up.

[Dylano*]

You'll rarely hit it right on as the shims are increments of .002", but as close as you can get without having too much is what I always shoot for....

Well what would you consider too much?
You already suggested I make them looser than the tolerances suggest!

[crazy steve]

You'll rarely hit it right on as the shims are increments of .002", but as close as you can get without having too much is what I always shoot for....

[Dylano*]

Still having some clearance doesn't mean the valves are right. Generally, being off by more than one shim size will effect compression, the more it's off, the more effect you'll see. Tighter clearances effectively increases the cam duration, lowering compression.

On my XJ project, compression numbers prior to a valve adjustment weren't too good; 135 PSI on two, and 90 and 60 on the other two. I'll note that my clearances weren't much tighter than yours, and none were zero. After a valve adjustment? I got 180 on three, and 160 on the lowest one (and I expect that one to improve after some use), for gains of 33%, 100%, and 260% on the low cylinder! Valve adjustments do make a difference....

I'd also recommend using the looser early intake spec (.006-.008 instead of .004-.006) as that will give you more time between adjustments.

Wonderful info, thanks!

I'll be sure to do that!

So I should get all my intake valves to .008"
and all of my exhaust valves to .010" ?

[crazy steve]

Well My valves aren't overly tight, i.e. they DO close completely...

Still having some clearance doesn't mean the valves are right. Generally, being off by more than one shim size will effect compression, the more it's off, the more effect you'll see. Tighter clearances effectively increases the cam duration, lowering compression.

On my XJ project, compression numbers prior to a valve adjustment weren't too good; 135 PSI on two, and 90 and 60 on the other two. I'll note that my clearances weren't much tighter than yours, and none were zero. After a valve adjustment? I got 180 on three, and 160 on the lowest one (and I expect that one to improve after some use), for gains of 33%, 100%, and 260% on the low cylinder! Valve adjustments do make a difference....

I'd also recommend using the looser early intake spec (.006-.008 instead of .004-.006) as that will give you more time between adjustments.

[Dylano*]

Well My valves aren't overly tight, i.e. they DO close completely.
So hopefully I don't have to re-adjust as you suggest I might! :/!