I can't get my carb's tuned properly with exhaust and pods. ):

[motoman]

You have to get the feel for the valve adjusting tool and just catch the edge of the shim bucket or it'll drive you nuts.

Turn the pilot screws for the highest VACUUM in each cylinder individually. They don't all have to be exactly the same because all the cylinders are different. Kinda like snowflakes if you know what I mean. Then resync and adjust the idle mixture screws again and resync....ect.....ect....until all cylinders are at highest possible vacuum and are in sync. You may have to make several passes. Keep the idle at about 800 to 1000 and about operating temp, let it cool if it gets too hot

As BA80 stated, idle mixtures and sync is NOT something you can do CORRECTLY in five minutes. Round you up an ole' house fan or similar in front of motor to help cool it. Even at that, your still gonna have to shut it down and let cool between sets.

This also a good time to blip throttle several times to seat threads of sync screws(you'll see the change after starting back up). Re-set....repeat till all four vacuums stay the same.

[BA80]

I didnt think so ):
Oh well, still need to fix um, and make that yics tool.

CURRENT PLAN OF ACTION:
Make yics tool,
wait for new jets to get here.
wait for lifter holder downer tool to get here haha,
that way I can get my shims out and see what sizes they currently are.

When the new jets get here, Im
'm gonna start with 1 over stock pilots and 4 over mains because that is what the chart says to do with my open exhaust and pods...
THEN I will install yics blockoff then vacuum sync carbs,
THEN tune pilot screws for highest idle


SOUND GOOD TO EVERYONE?!?!?!(:

You have to get the feel for the valve adjusting tool and just catch the edge of the shim bucket or it'll drive you nuts.

Turn the pilot screws for the highest VACUUM in each cylinder individually. They don't all have to be exactly the same because all the cylinders are different. Kinda like snowflakes if you know what I mean. Then resync and adjust the idle mixture screws again and resync....ect.....ect....until all cylinders are at highest possible vacuum and are in sync. You may have to make several passes. Keep the idle at about 800 to 1000 and about operating temp, let it cool if it gets too hot

[BA80]

So that is making the valves stay open too long!

Slightly but not enough to cause a backfire. Each metric shim size (in .05mm) is .002in.

[Dylano*]

So that is making the valves stay open too long!

[Dylano*]

OMG I GET IT!!! It's not the cam lobe to lifter that is wearing.. it's gotta be the actual valve to the valve seat right? Those get worn and that makes the valve stem push up further this pushing the lifters up further into the cam lobe making the gap tighter>!?!?!?!

But still even them why would I want to make that gap even tighter with small bigger shims like the chart suggests?

[Dylano*]

UGHHH THIS DOESNT MAKE SENSE..

IF my exhaust valve clearance is measured at .005 (.127)
and I have a 215 shimm, IT TELLS ME TO GET A 225 SHIM.

THAT MAKES THE GAP SMALLER DOESN'T IT!>>?!?!
Because the shim is THICKER?

WTF I'm so frustrated right now... this doesn't make sense at all.

[Dylano*]

Those valves aren't tight enough to cause a backfire Dylan.

I didnt think so ):
Oh well, still need to fix um, and make that yics tool.

CURRENT PLAN OF ACTION:
Make yics tool,
wait for new jets to get here.
wait for lifter holder downer tool to get here haha,
that way I can get my shims out and see what sizes they currently are.

When the new jets get here, Im
'm gonna start with 1 over stock pilots and 4 over mains because that is what the chart says to do with my open exhaust and pods...
THEN I will install yics blockoff then vacuum sync carbs,
THEN tune pilot screws for highest idle


SOUND GOOD TO EVERYONE?!?!?!(:

[Dylano*]

Valve and valve seat wear....

Buy wouldn't the WEAR make them THINNER making a LARGER gap??

[BA80]

That,s what I thought!!! What is it that makes that happen though???

Those valves aren't tight enough to cause a backfire Dylan.

[motoman]

That,s what I thought!!! What is it that makes that happen though???

Valve and valve seat wear....

[BA80]

SHIM CHARTS

[BA80]

Valve clearance is as follows:

(Inches)
(SUPPOSED TO BE .008"-.010")
Exhaust:
1. .006"
2. .008"
3. .007"
4. .007"
(SUPPOSED TO BE .004-.006")
Intake:
1. .005"
2. .004"
3. .004"
4. .002"


NOW, those clearance gaps SHOULD get bigger with time due to wear, correct? OR do they get tighter for some reason like my diesel?!
That has always confused me...

Basically what I'm asking is:
Should I buy smaller shims to make the gaps bigger?
(on the ones that are at the bottom of, but in, tolerance)
and should I mainly worry about the ones that are over tolerance?

These are what you need in thinner shims........

Intake

1) 2 sizes
2) 1 size
3) 1 size
4) 1 size

Exhaust

1) none
2) 1 size
3) 1 size
4) 2 sizes

[Dylano*]

Still not sticking.......to tight and not sealing properly.

The clearance DIMINISHES(get tighter). Set clearances at upper end of specs.

That,s what I thought!!! What is it that makes that happen though???

[motoman]

I'm aware that they aren't actually sticking as in remaining stationary, I mean more like sticking as in staying open, and not closing all the way. (: I agree it is a terrible term though.

Still not sticking.......to tight and not sealing properly.

The clearance DIMINISHES(get tighter). Set clearances at upper end of specs.

[Dylano*]

Valve clearance is as follows:

(Inches)
(SUPPOSED TO BE .008"-.010")
Exhaust:
1. .006"
2. .008"
3. .007"
4. .007"
(SUPPOSED TO BE .004-.006")
Intake:
1. .005"
2. .004"
3. .004"
4. .002"


NOW, those clearance gaps SHOULD get bigger with time due to wear, correct? OR do they get tighter for some reason like my diesel?!
That has always confused me...

Basically what I'm asking is:
Should I buy smaller shims to make the gaps bigger?
(on the ones that are at the bottom of, but in, tolerance)
and should I mainly worry about the ones that are over tolerance?