Vacuum Lines

[BA80]

No, you need to have those uncapped so that you can hook your sync tool up to those.

As long as you have a 4 guage setup. If your using 1 guage like some do (and I don't know how that could be anywhere near accurate) you need to plug them if the guage isn't hooked to them.

[TheRev]

You can use a test light as a makeshift oil light. Clip the test light lead to the connector on the oil sending unit and the other end to power. The light will be lit. If it goes out once the engine starts you have oil pressure.

Ok, I am not sure if I am doing this correctly. I take the clip on the tester light and connect it to power. Then I touch the pointed shaft onto the oil pressure sending unit. The test light becomes lit. Is that correct?

When I start the bike the light doesn't go off. So I shut the bike off. Is there a way I can check to see if the oil is actually being pumped up from the pan? I think the oil is pumping but the test light doesn't go off.

[BA80]

Are you touching the tip of the light to where the wire hooks the sender?

[TheRev]

Are you touching the tip of the light to where the wire hooks the sender?

Yes. I am touching the tip to where the wire connects to the sender.

[BA80]

How long did you let it run before you shut it down? It takes a while for the filter cup to fill.

[TexinMaine]

The standards do not have the octy, they have vacuum operated petcocks. There needs to be a vacuum line run from the forward facing nipple on the petcock to one of the nipples on the carb boot (usually left petcock to #2 boot and right petcock to #3 boot). You can cap the other 2 boots off.

Those boot nipples are where you hook up your sync tool. Those caps can be found at any auto parts store. They are just vacuum port caps.

I have a 78 and I am getting the carbs and tank cleaned. I noticed as I took the tank off there was a horizontal port on the petcocks that were not hooked to anything. Is this neccisary for proper function?

[TheRev]

How long did you let it run before you shut it down? It takes a while for the filter cup to fill.

I only ran it for less than a minute. I was nervous i might mess the engine up. Although when I ran it I didn't hear any knocking.

[BA80]

well, it only takes a few seconds for the filter to fill so I would guess that you either have no oil pressure or a bad sending unit.

You could take the sender out and crank the engine WITHOUT STARTING IT, just cranking. Disconnect the plug wires or something.

If oil squirts out the sender hole you have oil flow, just a bad sender. Might be a little messy but good for peace of mind.

[TheRev]

well, it only takes a few seconds for the filter to fill so I would guess that you either have no oil pressure or a bad sending unit.

You could take the sender out and crank the engine WITHOUT STARTING IT, just cranking. Disconnect the plug wires or something.

If oil squirts out the sender hole you have oil flow, just a bad sender. Might be a little messy but good for peace of mind.

Yes. I thought about doing it that way. I think that's what I will need to do. Now, I just have to get at it without take the carbs off.

[BA80]

I replaced mine when it went bad without taking the carbs off. It's not in there that tight. A good pair of pliers should loosen it and then just twist it out by hand.

[natemoen]

I have a 78 and I am getting the carbs and tank cleaned. I noticed as I took the tank off there was a horizontal port on the petcocks that were not hooked to anything. Is this neccisary for proper function?

You need that vacuum port hooked up or else you need to run the petcocks on prime all the time for fuel to flow.

[MPittma100]

Vacuum Plugs

The OEM ones had spring clamps holding them on.

Just in case anyone wants to stay with the OEM plugs, here they are at NWVCP.com:

16G-13569-00-00 Plug, Blind (Rubber) $3.95. Boats.net shows none in stock.

Mike

[jetmechmarty]

Just in case anyone wants to stay with the OEM plugs, here they are at NWVCP.com:

16G-13569-00-00 Plug, Blind (Rubber) $3.95. Boats.net shows none in stock.

Mike

$2.50 at Partzilla. 90467-11028-00 is the clip part number that holds them. Partzilla has those too.

These little doodads are a bit pricey, but they're worth it. They take the heat and don't leak. They'll likely still be doing the job 20 years from now. I tried the cheap auto parts store option. They don't last long, then you have vacuum leaks and you wonder what's wrong with your bike.

[TheRev]

You can use a test light as a makeshift oil light. Clip the test light lead to the connector on the oil sending unit and the other end to power. The light will be lit. If it goes out once the engine starts you have oil pressure.

Ok, I am still having trouble with the oil pressure light. Here is what I did. I bought a test light. I clipped "the alligator clip" to the positive side of the battery and touched the pointy probe onto the screw on the oil pressure sender. The test light lit up. Then I started the bike and the test light stayed lit.

I immediately turned off the bike. I then pulled the spark plug wires off the plugs. Took the oil pressure sender off the bike and cranked the engine a couple of times. Oil spilled out of the oil pressure hole. Which means there is movement of the oil. Then I put the oil pressure sender back onto the engine and removed the banjo bolt at the top of the engine where the solid oil line is connected. I then cranked the engine and oil poured out of the solid oil line. This tells me that oil is making it up to the top of the engine.

So I assumed because the test light didn't go off when I started the engine that the oil sender is bad. Would that be correct? So I purchased another oil pressure sender and installed it today. I hooked up the test light the same way I did before and touched the pointy probe onto the screw at the top of the oil pressure sender and nothing happened. The test light didn't light up. Then I touched the pointy probe to the body of the oil pressure sender and it lit up.

So my question is this. Do I trust the new oil pressure sender? Does the light always go on when starting the engine and then go off once the engine is started after it builds up pressure?

[BA80]

The oil pressure sender is nothing more than a ground switch. Without pressure to open it the light should stay on. When pressure is applied the switch opens and the light goes out.

If the light isn't lighting with the engine not running as you say then the new switch is bad I would say.