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  • Carb cleaning questions...

    I've gone through the carb cleaning 101 thread and feel up to the task. So I have a few newbie questions since I've never taken my carbs off; I wonder what horrors could possibly be waiting for me...
    I'd really hate to take them apart and tear a gasket or diaphragm that's gone brittle and then have no bike to ride while I wait for parts. Any suggestions on gaskets/parts I should go ahead and order before proceeding? I'm not going to completely take them apart-they seem to be working ok. I decided to drain the bowls and noticed lotsa crud/rust coming out so I'm pretty sure it's time for a cleaning...and time to install inline filters.
    I've decided to do away with the octopus-it is working presently but wow that thing takes up space and gets in the way when tuning. I read about the tygon fuel line but couldn't find any yesterday around KC. Do I have to order it?
    Bought a 4 gauge synchronizer Saturday and I have a few questions about it also. Do you use the brass restricters or just use the check valves to deal with fluctuation? My manual says to put the petcocks "ON" but that makes no sense...how is the bike supposed to get fuel without #2 carb producing vacuum for the octy? My bike eventually died so I switched to "PRIME" and adjusted it from there.
    Thanks for your time!
    79 SF
    Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

  • #2
    O Reilly's has the 1/4" tygon line. You have to ask them because they keep it behind the counter.

    Are you having any specific problem James?

    If you are careful there generally isn't an issue with gaskets. If you do happen to break one I'm fairly certain that Harry or Russ will have one laying around.
    Greg

    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

    ― Albert Einstein

    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

    The list changes.

    Comment


    • #3
      I went to O'Reillys, Advance Auto, and Autozone and got nothing but a puzzled look when I told them I wanted tygon line.
      I'm not having any real problems-I just know the carbs haven't been cleaned for almost 2 years and I'm not currently running any inline filters. It's hard to describe, but I feel like I'm not getting the response and pep it used to have. Sometimes during cold starts I'll see smoke coming out of the left exhaust-and my idle speed fluctuates between 1100 and 1400. If I cut the idle down when warm it'll be too low for when the engine isn't warm. I've run Seafoam pretty much everytime I filled up since I've had it.
      I'd really like to replace all the old fuel line and remove the octy, then all tygon with clamps on all connections just to make sure I don't have a small air leak. I plan to run it like you said from another post-down from the petcocks with a crossline running in between them with an inline filter right before the carb tee's on each side. I plan on doing this first, hooking up my syncer, and then see how she runs. If improved I'll postpone the cleaning-unless I get the tinkering bug some weekend-especially after seeing all the gunk that came out of the bowls.
      79 SF
      Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

      Comment


      • #4
        Most small engine repair places carry various sizes of the tygon.
        81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

        Comment


        • #5
          You should set your idle when the engine is hot and everything is up to operating temp. The enrichment circuit should be enough to get it started.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks! I'll definitely go to the small engine shop up the street and see if they have it.
            One other thing-my rear brake is dragging ever so slightly. Bike still rolls easily but it's just enough to make the rotor warm. I replaced the seal last fall but my piston is pitted. I guess I'm SOL as far as finding a new piston unless I take it out again and polish the crap out of it. Would you advise replacing the O-ring? It's still virtually brand new or will disassembly compromise it?
            79 SF
            Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

            Comment


            • #7
              Nate, that brings up an interesting thought: I wonder if my enrichment circuits are getting fouled. Bike usually starts on first go, but sometimes it'll take 4 or 5 starter hits.
              79 SF
              Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

              Comment


              • #8
                I keep 10' or 20' around.

                http://www.ebay.com/bhp/tygon-fuel-line-1-4

                They all don't like to idle when cold. Set the idle to where it should be a running temp and just tough it out through warm up. Welcome to the world of carburetors.

                A good cleaning and sync won't hurt a bit. I think your just getting used to the scoot though. BTDT.
                Greg

                Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                ― Albert Einstein

                80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                The list changes.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I set my idle when I was syncing it Saturday so the engine was plenty warm fyi. It idles nicely-just never at the same rpm.
                  79 SF
                  Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
                    Greg

                    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                    ― Albert Einstein

                    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                    The list changes.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Brake Dragging

                      Originally posted by jrm000kc View Post
                      Thanks! I'll definitely go to the small engine shop up the street and see if they have it.
                      One other thing-my rear brake is dragging ever so slightly. Bike still rolls easily but it's just enough to make the rotor warm. I replaced the seal last fall but my piston is pitted. I guess I'm SOL as far as finding a new piston unless I take it out again and polish the crap out of it. Would you advise replacing the O-ring? It's still virtually brand new or will disassembly compromise it?
                      Don't mess around with a pitted caliper piston. You need to rebuild the caliper with a new piston, seal and dust cover. Master cylinder should be rebuilt too. You also want to check and make sure that your brake lever is free moving and not sticking causing the slight brake application. If it is sticking, you will need to take it off and clean and lubricate the shaft. Shaft and lever have a tendency to corrode and seize. Check you brake lines. If they are old, think seriously about replacing them as well.

                      Point here is - Take no chances with safety items.

                      Mike
                      Last edited by MPittma100; 03-31-2014, 06:28 PM.
                      1981 XS1100H Venturer
                      K&N Air Filter
                      ACCT
                      Custom Paint by Deitz
                      Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                      Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                      Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                      Stebel Nautilus Horn
                      EBC Front Rotors
                      Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yeah, Mikes right about that shaft that runs through the frame. It'll get rusty and sticky over time if it isn't serviced.

                        Thanks for the reminder Mike.
                        Greg

                        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                        ― Albert Einstein

                        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                        The list changes.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jrm000kc View Post
                          ...but my piston is pitted. I guess I'm SOL as far as finding a new piston...
                          HVC cycle reproduces new caliper pistons in stainless steel....
                          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                          '78E original owner - resto project
                          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                          '82 XJ rebuild project
                          '80SG restified, red SOLD
                          '79F parts...
                          '81H more parts...

                          Other current bikes:
                          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            jrm-- have a look-see at this video. Might give you a good road map on the carb cleaning.

                            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95nlrP-yn2I
                            79 F
                            Previously owned: (among others)
                            1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
                            1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
                            1973 Suzuki TM 125
                            1979 XS1100 F
                            2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
                            1991 BMW K75

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              if you remove the choke shaft from the carb assy. look out for the detent ball and spring..they're tiny and easy to loose...

                              they where in carb # 1 on my 81 special..caused me much hate and discontent when i realized they had fell off the bench and onto the shop floor!!
                              81 SH gifted to SON

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