Don, some have two detents, some just one. But all have both springs; the second spring/ball keeps the rod from vibrating.
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Carb cleaning questions...
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Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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When I do my carbs on both my bikes(1100 SG and ZRX 1100) I use an old towel that I work on that I don't care if I mess it up. As I clean the parts, I put them back in place so I don't lose any. When I'm done I take the towel and hand wash it for the next time. You can also get a piece of plywood and use it for a makeshift table.1980 XS1100 SG
Inline fuel filters
New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
160 mph speedometer mod
Kerker Exhaust
xschop K & N air filter setup
Dynojet Recalibration kit
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed
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Many Thanks
Thank you all for taking your time to help. I watched the youtube video will give the carbs a good cleaning sometime this spring.
Ordered and installed the rear caliper piston from HVC and the bike runs even better without the caliper slightly dragging all the time.
Amazingly no one has tygon here in Gladstone, MO. I don't understand why either so I settled on some fuel line I got from a small engine shop. It's 3/16 but I think it'll work-just be tight around the fittings. It's the yellowish clear Oregon brand. If anyone foresees any issues with it please say so. I forgot to get tee's so I'll head back to the shop. I'm not really sure what to use to cap off the fuel ports when I rid myself of the octy. All that seems available are vacuum caps and I'm not sure if they'll stand up to fuel...I must live in an area where DIY bike repairs/mods don't happen because I always seem to end up empty handed whenever I need parts.
Anyhow it's nearly 80 degrees and gorgeous and I'm wasting daylight for riding...stay safe everyone and hopefully you don't interfere with the safety of a driver's all important phone call/text.79 SF
Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.
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I can't believe that there is no NAPA store around there someplace. And if they don't stock it, they can order it. The trick is to find someone that spaeks the same language as you, so they know what you are looking for.
It helps if you know some other names for whatever it is you are looking for.
The yellow fuel line sounds like Tygon material, so what ever they call it, remember for next time
http://www.hoseline.net/hose/fgpvc.htm
CZ
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Well after seeing the size of the tee's on the carbs I quickly realized the 3/16 wasn't gonna work. After I removed the octy I inspected the old fuel lines and they seemed in pretty good shape-still plenty flexible and no cracking anywhere. So I cut off the ends that were stretched and cut everything to the lengths I needed. After a little head scratching after my first attempt at putting the tank on I saw I had no space. I turned the carb tee's down and U-looped the lines back. I just got back from riding so everything seems to be fine. I now have inline filters installed and the engine looks so much cleaner without all the hoses.
I did discover what's causing my idle fluctuation-after spraying pen oil on the carb/cylinder boots or whatever they're called I could cracks all over every single one. Seems to be one continuous crack around the circumference where the clamps go. Well, time to order 4 of them....79 SF
Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.
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Hey there,
Not sure what PEN OIL is, or what you were looking for when you sprayed it on the INTAKE BOOTS, but they are double walled, and develop external cracks all the time....but most of the time they are just fine and it's just cosmetic cracking!! Folks have used several techniques to make them look better, plastidip spray, black RTV, black plumber tape, etc.!
As to your idle fluctuations...you mentioned a carb cleaning in your future....that alone would/could be the reason...both dirty partially clogged carbs/pilot circuits, as well as needing a good vacuum synchronization, if that is off the idle will "HUNT" for equalibrium and not be able to find it!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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What I meant was 'penetrating oil'. I understand that they're double-walled but I'm pretty sure they're cracked all the way through. Why? Because the idle changed when I sprayed them and I could see the 'pen oil' getting sucked into the cracks everytime the boot came under vacuum. They're probably the originals and it wouldn't hurt to replace them regardless.79 SF
Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.
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I don't remember James. Did we sync your carbs a while back?Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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Yea Greg. We synced them over at Harry's place. You also adjusted the fuel/air mix also. I bought myself a 4 gauge syncer 2 weeks ago and got them pretty even.
Not sure if I was seeing the WD-40 actually getting sucked into the cracks or if it was the boots flexing making it look so. However, when I heard the idle change when I soaked them, that pretty much convinces me they're cracked all the way through.
Keeping the bike outside all the time is really taking a toll on all the rubber pieces. My rear tire is already cracking on the sidewall after only 1 year so I can imagine the rubber boots are doing the same.79 SF
Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.
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All the REALLY nasty boots I've taken off these parts bikes I've never seen any cracked all the way through. Not saying yours aren't, just saying.
Check the seal between the boots and the head. that's a more likely place for a leak. Particularly if the PO used those worthless paper gaskets in there.
The penetrating oil (fish oil) is probably just being absorbed by the dry outer layer on the boots. That or it's seeping into the cracks like it's supposed to.Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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Looks like the best thing to do is take them off and inspect. I'll have to do it anyway to put new gaskets in. Any particular gasket? Or can I cut them myself? Think I'll put gaskets and a bead of sealer like RTV silicone to make sure I get a nice seal.
So it's normal for good boots to flex? Never heard penetrating oil called 'fish oil'.
It's actually trying to snow here-2 days ago we had 80 degrees. Won't be doing any work to it today...good ol' bipolar Missouri weather.79 SF
Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.
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I don't use any gasket on the boots, just a little Yamabond or ThreeBond.Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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FYI I now have a functioning octy I have no use for if anyone wants it.79 SF
Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.
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Boot removal...
I'm guessing to make things easier will I need to remove the air filter box in order to have space to remove, clean, and reseal the boots?
Depending on how confident I feel about cleaning the carbs I might as well just do both...weather co-operating that is. Been off of work all week due to an issue that happened when I was born-I guess being a 'Gentile' would be the best way to explain it. Had surgery Monday and the simple act of moving around is painful at best without the painkillers. Definitely can't ride at the moment-inside or outside if you catch my drift...if you ever have to get the 'snip' done do yourself a favor and have them knock you out. I did local and regretted it.79 SF
Raptor Auto CCT, octopus-less, tapped/plugged fuelcock prime ports, new shorter handlebars, original stock Yamaha seat (w/ Octo routing diagram), looking for stock grab-bar/sissybar/backrest.
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