Originally posted by jetmechmarty
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XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by Prisoner6 View PostHi, James -
Do you have the middle drive off the engine? That will make putting the engine back in the frame much easier, as will removing the oil pan and oil pump ...
Oh, and of course, the oil filter housing should be removed ...
Looks like things are coming along nicely ... keep those updates and great pics coming!
Onwards and upwards, indeed!
Glad you like the pix (they speak a thousand words...) and the updates. I thought maybe they will be of interest to anyone going through the same process..Last edited by James England; 05-04-2014, 04:16 PM.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by MarkD View PostLooking good, James. Really good.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by James England View PostYes, it should be much easier to get engine back in but I'll do the bandage treatment first. Am I right in saying I should put the engine lying on the clutch casing side, then lift the frame onto it..ie from the left side of the engine??
Glad you like the pix (they speak a thousand words...) and the updates. I thought maybe they will be of interest to anyone going through the same process..
So, to answer your question (using this assumption), I would say yes, lay the engine on it's right (clutch) side, then lift the frame onto it from the left side.
Maybe someone else will chime in with other tips and suggestions ...
And yes, if it was my freshly powdercoated frame, I would definitely "mummify" it before re-installing the engine ...
And by the way, your attention to detail on this build is amazing ... I'm sure the finished product will be stunning!!Marco
Current bikes:
1979 Yamaha XS Eleven Special (SF)
1979 Honda CBX
2002 Kawasaki ZRX1200R
Rest in Peace, Don Glardon (DGXSER) 1966-2014
WE MISS YOU, DON
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These are the European footrests, Marty. I zinc-plated the ends and used a stainless allen bolt in each.
I put all four footrest grips (I'm reticent to use the word 'rubber' on a US site) in the washing machine and they came out nice and clean.... The reason I want a new one is that one of the front ones is missing a rubber flap which goes over the articulating bit of the peg...
Whilst waiting for the enamel to dry on the footpegs tonight, I PJ1'd the clutch perch and lever. Also zinc-plated the cable adjuster and put on the new neoprene replica lever cover. I'm still looking for the small rubber covet that goes over the cable adjuster....
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by Prisoner6 View PostI'm assuming you took the engine out the right side ...
So, to answer your question (using this assumption), I would say yes, lay the engine on it's right (clutch) side, then lift the frame onto it from the left side.
Maybe someone else will chime in with other tips and suggestions ...
And yes, if it was my freshly powdercoated frame, I would definitely "mummify" it before re-installing the engine ...
And by the way, your attention to detail on this build is amazing ... I'm sure the finished product will be stunning!!
I'll keep posting pix as I go alonglXS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Switchgear
Whilst waiting for the valve shim tool, I thought I'd renovate the handlebar switchgear. Although I'd already used Deoxit in the switches, I found on stripping them that they were filthy and full of crud inside. Particularly bad was the engine kill switch which was full of green copper oxide and general filth. I can see how this little switch would cause ignition problems. It can be removed easily from the housing by undoing two screws. The switch then pops out. To get the top part of the switch off, you just remove a small circlip under the switch and the top bit pulls off, revealing the thre position switch and contacts underneath. So I dipped everything in solvent, then removed all the metal bits, derusted them in acid and then...once more...got the trusty zinc plater out again.
I stripped the crusty old paint of the switch housings, pending using PJ1 on them. There are also mini decal kits on eBay for the switches, so I'll post some pix of the finished items once they are done. If the meantime, here's where I've reached....
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by Prisoner6 View Post
And yes, if it was my freshly powdercoated frame, I would definitely "mummify" it before re-installing the engine ... D
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by jetmechmarty View PostDiablo Cycle has them.
A better set is available http://yambits.co.uk/xs1100-handleba...t-p-19832.htmlXS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Hmmmm.... Interesting. There isn't a lot there for a US spec bike. At least, not based upon what I have.
Diablo Cycle has a link to follow and get what you need.
Where you go for these probably depends a lot upon which side of the pond you live.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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James
I found this on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/yamaha-xs400...34dfeb&vxp=mtr
you may find a cheaper alternative.2 - 80 LGs bought one new
81 LH
02 FXSTB Nighttrain
22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
Jim
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