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Carb Synching 101

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  • #16
    Very nice write up sir, thank you!
    1979 XS110F, Stock
    1980 XS1100G, Mostly Stock, gifted to my son.
    2000 YZ 250, Sold
    2002 YZ125, Sold
    2009 Royal Star Venture
    '94 Pontiac Trans Am, 25th Anniversary, For Sale

    Ernie

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    • #17
      I know this is a stupid question but do you place the vacuum lines from your sync tool on the actual carbs or the carb manifold boots? Also, when done with the sync do you cap the vacuum port that isn't being used by the vacuum advance and the petcocks? Thanks
      1979 xs1100f
      New Fuse Box
      Progressive Shocks
      Gold Valve Emulator
      Dyna Coils
      Electronic Flasher
      Led Headlight
      Led Turn Signals
      4 Led Driving Lights
      2nd Gear Fix
      Auto Cam Tensioner
      Digital Dash
      Stainless Braided Lines
      R6 4 Piston Calipers
      Stainless Bolt Kit
      Maier Fairing
      Dyna Balancing Beads
      Spin On Oil Filter
      Stebel Nautilus Horn
      Plasti Dip Rims
      ISO Grips

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      • #18
        Use the prime position on your petcocks when syncing and then hook everything back up the way it's supposed to be when your done..........

        The vacuum advance DOES NOT GET DISCONNECTED.
        Greg

        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

        ― Albert Einstein

        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

        The list changes.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by BA80 View Post
          Use the prime position on your petcocks when syncing and then hook everything back up the way it's supposed to be when your done..........

          The vacuum advance DOES NOT GET DISCONNECTED.
          The vacuum for the octi does get disconnected, that is why you need to switch to prime. Put the caps back or hook the octi back up on the carbs your not/done syncing.
          Has anyone used this tool, just got it and was wanting one since my first 4 cyl SF11 ?


          Thanks, Done
          76 XS650 C ROADSTER
          80 XS650 G Special II
          https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
          80 XS 1100 SG
          81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
          https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
          AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by BA80 View Post
            Use the prime position on your petcocks when syncing and then hook everything back up the way it's supposed to be when your done..........

            The vacuum advance DOES NOT GET DISCONNECTED.
            Hi Done- I believe you read that wrong, as Greg stated the VACUUM ADVANCE tube connected to the #3 carb stays connected. It's the intake manifold vacuum hoses that should be disconnected to allow for the sync gauge lines to be installed.
            1979 XS1100F
            2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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            • #21
              As you said.
              It's the intake manifold vacuum hoses that should be disconnected to allow for the sync gauge lines to be installed.

              I agree, the intake manifold caps/plugs and the octi. vac. hose need to be put back on when your done syncing that side, the vacuum advance is not touched, it's left connected to #3 carb.
              Sorry for my confusing the issue.
              Been wondering if I screwed up my brain in that crash. Seems most everyone I know is taking offense at something I said, losing friends and relatives left and right.

              Has anyone used this tool, just got it and was wanting one since my first SF11 in 79 ?



              Thanks, Done
              76 XS650 C ROADSTER
              80 XS650 G Special II
              https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
              80 XS 1100 SG
              81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
              https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
              AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

              Comment


              • #22
                Yes, I have one, and another more expensive MP 90 degree. Very useful tool, but the cheaper one only has a Phillips bit if I recall.
                1979 XS1100F
                2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                Comment


                • #23
                  I have one very similar. It's an old Snap On carb adjusting tool for QuadraJet carbs. The bits are interchangeable. It's 1/4" drive and you can put any bit or socket on it.
                  Greg

                  Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                  ― Albert Einstein

                  80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                  The list changes.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Yes, this is a very well written post.

                    Only thing I would say is about technique and not the order of things. That would be DO NOT GET IMPATIENT AND RUSH! It takes a few minutes to get a good sync so set up a fan to cool your motor.

                    Each adjustment should be very small in fact just, resting a screwdriver on the sync screws can show a change the vacuum reading for that cylinder. So make small adjustments one at a time and then let the motor idle for about a minute to give all the carbs a chance to even out. Remember an adjustment on one carb actually affects them all.
                    Mike Giroir
                    79 XS-1100 Special

                    Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

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                    • #25
                      Correction if I may . . .

                      Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
                      Hi Done- I believe you read that wrong, as Greg stated the VACUUM ADVANCE tube connected to the #3 carb stays connected. It's the intake manifold vacuum hoses that should be disconnected to allow for the sync gauge lines to be installed.
                      The Vacuum advance hose is connected to the #2 carb, second one in from the left as you sit on the bike.

                      Your welcome in advance
                      1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
                      1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
                      1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
                      1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
                      1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

                      Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Schming View Post
                        The Vacuum advance hose is connected to the #2 carb, second one in from the left as you sit on the bike.

                        Your welcome in advance
                        You may very well indeed Schming, lol. I have mine capped-off, that's why I'm not too familiar with it like everything else.
                        1979 XS1100F
                        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          So on the 78-79 carbs, when adjusting the idle screw, that large spindly looking wheel/screw, how do you turn it one why or the other, is there a special tool or does one just use a screw driver. Also, if you adjust this one wheel/ idle screw, I presume it adjusts the idle on all four carbs evenly?

                          Thanks, nice post.

                          d-1
                          79 SF

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            It has notches 360 on it. Use a flat-blade and push one way or the other.
                            1979 XS1100F
                            2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by dolphans1 View Post
                              So on the 78-79 carbs, when adjusting the idle screw, that large spindly looking wheel/screw, how do you turn it one why or the other, is there a special tool or does one just use a screw driver. Also, if you adjust this one wheel/ idle screw, I presume it adjusts the idle on all four carbs evenly?

                              Thanks, nice post.

                              d-1
                              Yes using a long flat blade, as long as that screw is movable/not froze up, poke it in the groove CW to increase RPM. CCW to lower RPM.. Yes it controls all the carbs, so you should not need to sync. them again. On the other hand it does not hurt to check sync. anytime your up to it. I had some mercury that I bought in 79 for my SF 8 lb. after my carb styx got messed up I made my own with the last of the mercury I had. But I wanted to try other homemade tools for this. I took 2 cycle oil mixed with fuel, enough to give it color so I could see it and made a equalizer, it works but is very sensitive, you must have the carbs set really close or they will just suck the mix out of the tube, might be good for doing the idle mix screw sync. ?
                              76 XS650 C ROADSTER
                              80 XS650 G Special II
                              https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
                              80 XS 1100 SG
                              81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
                              https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
                              AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by donebysunday View Post
                                Yes using a long flat blade, as long as that screw is movable/not froze up, poke it in the groove CW to increase RPM. CCW to lower RPM.. Yes it controls all the carbs, so you should not need to sync. them again. On the other hand it does not hurt to check sync. anytime your up to it. I had some mercury that I bought in 79 for my SF 8 lb. after my carb styx got messed up I made my own with the last of the mercury I had. But I wanted to try other homemade tools for this. I took 2 cycle oil mixed with fuel, enough to give it color so I could see it and. made a equalizer, it works but is very sensitive, you must have the carbs set really close or they will just suck the mix out of the tube, might be good for doing the idle mix screw sync. ?
                                Thanks, I had my carbs checked for sync and they were spot on, once bike was fully warm or hot and choke off, the RPM's would slowly drop below 1000RPMs on idle and stall out, if I rotate throttle the throttle grip just a slight tad, and hold it there, the bike idles just fine.

                                Can the the throttle cable be adjusted near the the throttle grip near handle bars, where that chrome nut linkage meets the throttle grip? What is that nut for, to remove slack from cable?

                                Thanks,

                                d-1
                                79 SF

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