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  • #31
    Originally posted by BA80 View Post
    - - - Just adjust them so there's a sliver of light showing equally in all 4. Put them back on and you should be very close.
    Hi Greg,
    FWIW, a line of light can show as little as a 0.002" difference, a bread tie is far thicker.
    Fred Hill, S'toon
    XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
    "The Flying Pumpkin"

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    • #32
      Yes Fred, but if they are all even it WILL run good and the idle can be adjusted up when you start it. Or, it can be set wider to begin with.

      It's just the method that I've used repeatedly and works very well for me.
      Greg

      Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

      ― Albert Einstein

      80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

      The list changes.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by penninger View Post
        You do not want pictures. I took a 100% bike and cut the ass end off of it
        Hi Jordan,
        at least you didn't hardtail the bastard so there's hope for you yet.
        Did you at least carefully save the parts you cut off so you can weld them back on once you realize how handy they were?
        Fred Hill, S'toon
        XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
        "The Flying Pumpkin"

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        • #34
          I'm wondering if you have a sticking slide?
          XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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          • #35
            Another idea

            If you've tried the more obvious suggestions, and still have the problem...and you're looking for more ideas...your symptoms seem really consistent with air leaks between the carbs and the intake manifold.

            Usually the symptoms get worse as the bike warms up. Typically it happens when you have been riding, and you let up off the throttle and the idle doesn't go back down like it should.

            The leaks can occur around the rubber boots, or the butterfly shaft seals in the carburetors. One trouble shooting technique is to let the bike idle and spray starting fluid or lighter fluid onto the suspected areas. The RPM will change dramatically if you happen to spray it over a leak.

            Just another idea...
            -Mike
            _________
            '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
            '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
            '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
            '79 XS750SF 17k miles
            '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
            '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
            '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

            Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

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            • #36
              Un-lit propane torch works too. Better hope the plug wires aren't arcing with that lighter fluid method. :-o
              Last edited by bikerphil; 02-19-2014, 10:42 PM.
              2H7 (79)
              3H3

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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