New Guy Question

[jetmechmarty]

Yeah thats a good idea. Stop messing around and pull them off. I found the thread on here about bench sync, so I'll follow that. Thanks

Really, that's probably all it takes. A vacuum sync it nice, but a proper bench sync will get you where you need to be. Get it done to where you get a good idle and smooth acceleration. If they aren't leaking you can move on to the other maintenance issues.

[natemoen]

Really, that's probably all it takes. A vacuum sync it nice, but a proper bench sync will get you where you need to be. Get it done to where you get a good idle and smooth acceleration. If they aren't leaking you can move on to the other maintenance issues.

But a bench sync is in no way a replacement for a proper vac sync.

[jetmechmarty]

But a bench sync is in no way a replacement for a proper vac sync.

I didn't say that it was. I just pointed out that he can get the bike running just fine without one. The vacuum sync is something that can be put off until the other maintenance is done.

[MarkD]

Pen, are the carb boots/manifolds in good shape? Bad cracks can allow air into carbs. Make sure your vacuum lines are routed properly, too. Make sure all jets are CLEAN and a maybe a triple cleaning of carbs is in order. All this, I know, as mine was revving, too. Check 'unwanted revving issues' thread. I got mine running near perfectly with the help of these gurus. They absolutely will know more tricks than I know to help you out.

[natemoen]

I didn't say that it was. I just pointed out that he can get the bike running just fine without one. The vacuum sync is something that can be put off until the other maintenance is done.

The way it sounded was that you were saying you didn't need to do the vac sync because a bench sync was good enough.

I just wanted to make sure it was clear that the vac sync is very necessary for a properly running bike.

[Aches n Pains]

Pictures. We want pictures!!

[James England]

Pen, are the carb boots/manifolds in good shape? Bad cracks can allow air into carbs. Make sure your vacuum lines are routed properly, too. Make sure all jets are CLEAN and a maybe a triple cleaning of carbs is in order. All this, I know, as mine was revving, too. Check 'unwanted revving issues' thread. I got mine running near perfectly with the help of these gurus. They absolutely will know more tricks than I know to help you out.

One thing though... The inlet manifolds have an inner sleeve, made of different material from the outside. So, it's possible to have cracks in the outer material which don't look too great but which, in fact, don't go through the inner lining and cause air leaks. I've noticed that on several bikes, some of which have had really bad looking manifolds externally but which were fine inside. If running on a budget and wanting to avoid unnecessary expenditure, it's worth checking the inside oft he manifolds for cracks. I read somewhere that the outside layer is primarily to support the carbs and reduce vibration, rather than the prime air seal aspect of things. Personally, though, I hate the look of cracked, mangy-looking manifolds even if they are OK internally!

[DGXSER]

As for synching and tuning, as well as valve shims, HERE is my results and thoughts on it. If you have not yet, do check your valve clearances before digging to deep into fine tuning and such. But the bike should run and maintain revs without the valve shimming work.

As for the synching, when I rebuilt the Katana last year it was missing horribly when I first fired it up. I had forgotten to bench synch the carbs. Once I bench synched them, it ran nicely.

For the intake manifolds, if they do not leak, coat them with a rubber sealer like plasti-dip to make them look new-ish.

IMO, check on the tuning and synching first. If it still runs like crap you can move on to intake manifolds and such.

[penninger]

To answer a lot of questions the intake boots are brand new.

So last night I took the carbs off and did a bench sync. I gave the mix screws 1 1/2 turns. Put the carbs back on and it ran great. My buddy is coming over tonight after work and were going to do a vacuum sync.

After that, I have only paint, turn signals, head light, new grips, mirrors and a new rear tire.

[penninger]

Pictures. We want pictures!!

You do not want pictures. I took a 100% bike and cut the ass end off of it

[penninger]

[MarkD]

+1 on the outside of the manifolds looking cracked, and the inside being fine. When I got my XS last year, they looked really bad on the exterior, but upon inside inspection, they were fine. I had already ordered new ones, so I did replace them. I also purchased a vac. sync, and got the carbs working really well. Could not have done most of it without guidance from members, though.

[LoHo]

I was chasing a similar problem a while back. Turned out that one of the vacuum hoses to the gauge was cracked and introduced a vacuum leak. As I chased idle around, I finally noticed that #3 went to zero when I closed the gauge petcock for that port; it should have stuck at whatever vacuum it last held. If the vacuum plugs are in place, make sure they seal, as they tend to get hard and brittle and allow a vac leak, making a synch inpossible.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Penn,

Congrats on getting it to behave with a bench synch. Thanks for your photos...and what the hey, it's your bike, you've got it running, that's about all we ask from folks working on these machines that go cutting on them. We just get upset "MORE" when folks cut, and then never finish and end up parting it out!

Now as to your photo....you have the inexpensive EMGO style/brand of pod filters, and they have a prominent mounting lip on the inside that can and often interferes with the air flow in the intake bell, has caused several members to have excessively rich running machines, and well as poor top end performance....like hitting a wall ~6k rpm or such. Take a look in the tech tips about Velocity Stacks type mods for mounting them to eliminate the restriction, and we have found that the velocity stack actually can help with the throttle response due to getting much straighter flowing air going into the carbs instead of the turbulent air that can come sideways from thru the filters so close to the inlet!

T.C.

[penninger]

Hey Penn,

Congrats on getting it to behave with a bench synch. Thanks for your photos...and what the hey, it's your bike, you've got it running, that's about all we ask from folks working on these machines that go cutting on them. We just get upset "MORE" when folks cut, and then never finish and end up parting it out!

Now as to your photo....you have the inexpensive EMGO style/brand of pod filters, and they have a prominent mounting lip on the inside that can and often interferes with the air flow in the intake bell, has caused several members to have excessively rich running machines, and well as poor top end performance....like hitting a wall ~6k rpm or such. Take a look in the tech tips about Velocity Stacks type mods for mounting them to eliminate the restriction, and we have found that the velocity stack actually can help with the throttle response due to getting much straighter flowing air going into the carbs instead of the turbulent air that can come sideways from thru the filters so close to the inlet!

T.C.

Thanks I'll check it out. Everything on the bike other than the cheap air filters I have done my self. Including making my own seat, using a truck hitch light as a tail light lol

Just painted it