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instead of adding another point of failure, I would correct the wiring deficiencies
JMHO
Exactly my thoughts! In my Venturers case, that missing three volts of smoke to coils was leaking out of ignition switch and kill switch. The stock 3ohm coils didn't help matters any being at 2.3 and 2.5ohms respectively. They got replaced with Honda VF series coils along with new solid core wires.
81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
By changing where the voltage drops occur we are changing the transient response of the circuit. Again, I'm relatively new to this black magic and smoke since I've still got a semester of my bachelor's left.
Hey if you aren't sure what it does, DON'T TOUCH IT! That is the most important thing that I learned outside of electrical engineering class.
Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
You are way over thinking this. Do what you think you need to do, but after 35+ years as an electrician, I can tell you that, in the long run, your knowledge of inductance and capacitance theory will have little impact on the relatively simple outcome of increasing the voltage at the coils, which will best be achieved by cleaning up your connections. As Steve has said, unless the wiring has damaged insulation, there will be little to no corrosion in the wiring. Corrosion issues will be at the connections, and are easily cleaned.
And FWIW the wiring size is more than enough to deliver full voltage in the absence of the ballast resistor. Like I said, the circuit doesn't care one way or the other, it was only the coils that cared.
1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
You are way over thinking this. Do what you think you need to do, but after 35+ years as an electrician, I can tell you that, in the long run, your knowledge of inductance and capacitance theory will have little impact on the relatively simple outcome of increasing the voltage at the coils, which will best be achieved by cleaning up your connections. As Steve has said, unless the wiring has damaged insulation, there will be little to no corrosion in the wiring. Corrosion issues will be at the connections, and are easily cleaned.
And FWIW the wiring size is more than enough to deliver full voltage in the absence of the ballast resistor. Like I said, the circuit doesn't care one way or the other, it was only the coils that cared.
Do you know of anyone on here that's remade their wiring harness? I know that I've seen a website that sells all the different kinds of wire to match the colors that we need. It'd be a fun, albeit time-consuming, winter project but the gains might be worth it (?)
78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)
"May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Connectors, wire, shrink tube, and electrical tape. That's it. It would take a really long time to perfectly duplicate one the original.
I would personally replace all of the existing molex connectors with a cheaper, more modern option since you'll be paying top dollar for those "retro" connectors. Maybe $100 - $150 if I wanted to get fancy with it.
78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)
"May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"
Connectors, wire, shrink tube, and electrical tape. That's it. It would take a really long time to perfectly duplicate one the original.
I would personally replace all of the existing molex connectors with a cheaper, more modern option since you'll be paying top dollar for those "retro" connectors. Maybe $100 - $150 if I wanted to get fancy with it.
Not sure a out a complete rewire, but there's a couple of threads here about bare bones looms. Some of the cafe racer guys strip their looms down to the bare essentials, and some of them have made complete custom looms.
Your right, the cost wouldn't be huge, as Nate suggests, just time consuming. Cable is relatively cheap, especially if it can be got at trade prices, and the rest is just connectors and tape. Done right, there's probably a small market for them here.
1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
If you were to replicate the harness with wire colors and all (which is what you make it sound like you want to do) I would estimate you would spend upwards $150+ on the wire alone.
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
You boys in the States must be paying far too much for wire if that's the case Nate. I just done a quick costing here, and I could make the entire loom for that. With current exchange rates, $150 NZ equates to about $110 US, so definitely not huge. Of course, that's materials only cost. Labour cost would drive that up considerably.
1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
I've been busy away, but a few things to note. The coil relay mod is very popular on the GS site. Quick simple mod if u don't feel like rebuilding the harness. I have re-built three harnesses. Fairly easy. Grab a piece of osb and trace the outline of the harness. Cut the harness open and replace every wire with new. Don't use those bullet connectors. Go with insulated spade connectors. Do away with the pin connectors, and instead use the GM weatherpak connectors. My first two builds used original connectors through vintageconnections.com, buying a barrel crimper, etc.
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
And Gabe, ur once again over-complicating things with the engineer talk. I have a two-year degree in electronics, and found only the basics applicable to much of anything on this site. Formulas etc., look fancy, but all you need to know is it does exactly what it says it does: delivers source voltage to the coils.
1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
You boys in the States must be paying far too much for wire if that's the case Nate. I just done a quick costing here, and I could make the entire loom for that. With current exchange rates, $150 NZ equates to about $110 US, so definitely not huge. Of course, that's materials only cost. Labour cost would drive that up considerably.
Wire cost costs here are high, but the main problem is finding a vendor that sells in the small quantities needed and carries enough different colors. They are out there, but they all charge a pretty stiff premium over 'regular' prices.
Copper prices have gotten stupid high; we've had morons killed trying to steal copper out of live installations. I can remember taking telephone cable to the landfill by the truckload because the scrappers wouldn't take it, now it's worth decent money without being stripped...
Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
we've had morons killed trying to steal copper out of live installations.
Theft is so bad up here, they have so many laws going on the books dealing with just that and scrap yards. People stealing commercial AC units off roofs, stripping houses of everything while on vacation, etc.
I re-did the harnesses with larger gauge wire, but not color-coded, and fairly cheap.
Almost always a voltage drop turns out to be a poor/corroded/faulty/mis-wired GROUND.
I would verify or improve the current factory ground on any of the 11s before hunting a voltage drop problem.
Poor grounds cause high resistance and resistance causes heat and heat causes poor connections.
Upgrade/improve the less than desirable OEM chassis grounds to direct battery grounds first. Then go hunting voltage drops. You might find that you have magically cured the problem.
Mike
1981 XS1100H Venturer K&N Air Filter ACCT Custom Paint by Deitz Geezer Rectifier/Regulator Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers Stebel Nautilus Horn EBC Front Rotors Limie Accent Moves On In 2015
Formulas etc., look fancy, but all you need to know is it does exactly what it says it does: delivers source voltage to the coils.
Hear hear. Realistically, that formula will make very little sense to most people on this forum and therefore doesn't contribute much. Personally, I think posting formulas should be banned!
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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