I was just wondering if anyone has checked the voltage at the coils to see if you have the full 12 volts at the coils? I haven't checked mine, but am getting ready to. The reason I ask is because I just built a 76 kz900 and with the old wiring I was only getting like 10 volts at the coils. And I did a coil mod where I ran a wire from the battery to a car relay that was connected to the ignition, a ground, and connected to power the coils. So as soon as you turn on the ignition it has full power to the coils. It eliminates the power from having to go thru the whole harness before getting to the coils. Pretty simple mod and works great. Do you guys think this mod would be benificial to our bikes? I do have a diagram but can't find it now. And it is pretty simple and cheap to do.
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There are a few people here that have done that.Nathan
KD9ARL
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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I've run both my XS11's with the coil relay mod, I also power the stock horn thru the same relay. Been running this way for years with no problems, just the positive results of a hotter spark and a horn that 'blows'. We call this voodoo electronics.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Yes I think its beneficial, though running the coil wiring unprotected, no fuse, is a concern to me.
I wired our drag bike the same way, a lot of drag racers run without fuses as they don't want any weak links, which is exactly what a fuse is.Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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Originally posted by TomB View Posta lot of drag racers run without fuses as they don't want any weak links, which is exactly what a fuse is.Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
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Yes, it's supposed to be a good mod, by all accounts, and gives better voltage at the coils, especially on older bikes with older wiring, a a circuitous route via the wiring loom to the coils....XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Is there a tech tip with a guide on how to do this "coil mod"? I'd be really interested in trying it out.78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)
"May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"
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Originally posted by trbig View PostMy bike's weakest link sits on the seat.
And me and the other crew/mechanic often called his "carers", it does take a certain kind of lunatic to launch one of them things. But I digress.
So is it possible to correct the OE wiring failures? or does the OE wiring have enough wiring, connectors, other feeds from the red/white wiring to give enough resistance to reduce voltage to 10V? I know the red/white wiring goes through the right handlebar kill switch which is a point of voltage drop if corroded, the relay mod does keep the kill switch but does take the losses out of the circuit.Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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What are the electrical specifications of the relay? 12v but what should the rated max current be? I'm not sure what kind of current the primary coils need at steady-state.
And I assume, without looking at a circuit diagram, that the actual switching of the primary coils happens on the ground side?78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)
"May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"
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You want a relay with a minimum rating of 15 amps; higher would be better. There's a inrush current factor that can give current spikes of up to 300% of the 'rated' current.
Although I agree with Davinci; if you have a serious voltage drop to the coils, you have issues in the harness and this simply bypasses it, it doesn't fix the problem that is probably indicating other issues that you may not be aware of.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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