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  • Cylinders are stuck (really stuck)

    I'm trying to get the jugs off this previously seized engine and it's killing me.

    I've searched the site (and the net) and have found numerous solutions but none have worked so far. I came up with my own "solution" using four nuts, two flat iron parts with holes for two bolts each, a wood 1x4 for structure, about a foot of angle iron, and two clamps.

    I pushed down on the four center rods while using the clamps to pull up the cylinders. I used a vice grip on the clamp to get them real tight to the point that they are starting to travel a bit (dangerous).

    Here's a photo.



    It's been sitting now for 24 hours without any movement. Any suggestions?

    I've thought of replacing the clamps with bolts going through the front and back holes but I worry that the bolts will be too thin for the task and will snap.

    Thanks again for all the great advice.
    _________________________________________
    1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
    Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
    Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
    1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

    Also have:
    2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

    Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

  • #2
    Not sure how you haven't snapped off that little aluminum piece in the rear of the motor yet that the clamp is attached to.

    You said you'd read some things, but did you see this? http://xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35427

    Down inside the cam chain galley is the only place I see with enough material to really put some pressure on. But, if you've got one side loose, sometimes you can work something into that crack on the front and back sides, then using that as a fulcrum point, hitting the raised side will usually raise the other side. Some people use a small piece of wire such as a guitar string and saw through the base gasket to loosen it up.

    All this is for normal instances though. If you've got a piston that's welded to a cylinder wall, it'd be better to destroy just that one cylinder/piston than it would a whole set of cylinders.
    Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

    You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

    Current bikes:
    '06 Suzuki DR650
    *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
    '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
    '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
    '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
    '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
    '81 XS1100 Special
    '81 YZ250
    '80 XS850 Special
    '80 XR100
    *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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    • #3
      Yeah, I too don't know how you havemt snapped that tab off. People break that thing off with way less stress than you are putting on it!
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

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      • #4
        I saw the tool before but I don't have the ability to fabricate it.

        Although it looks like I have a lot of pressure on the tab, I really don't. Anyway, I will remove it.

        I don't have welding equipment so I can't make anything like suggested. I'll have to think about it some more I guess.
        _________________________________________
        1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
        Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
        Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
        1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

        Also have:
        2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

        Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

        Comment


        • #5
          There are fulcrum points for prying near each of the front two motor mounts. You can try using a pry bar in those areas and soak down the stud holes with PB Blaster. You cab also tap a putty knife in where the base gasket is and then maybe a small screwdriver.
          2H7 (79) owned since '89
          3H3 owned since '06

          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

          ☮

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          • #6
            seized pistons

            I had to pull the cases apart and remove the piston rods from the crank. The the jugs came up ok but two of the pistons were rust welded to the sleeves. Took 5.5 ton to break them free. If yours are the same as mine, you'll never pull those jugs free of the pistons. You may have to split the cases like I did.
            mack
            79 XS 1100 SF Special
            HERMES
            original owner
            http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg

            81 XS 1100 LH MNS
            SPICA
            http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg

            78 XS 11E
            IOTA
            https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
            https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA



            Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
            Frankford, Ont, Canada
            613-398-6186

            Comment


            • #7
              I was able to get the pistons moving again so they are not the problem. It won't even give me a gap to work with.

              On another site, someone had to soak it in oil for a month. I did try WD40 and nothing moved. I beat it with a rubber mallet with no luck.

              It's like it's welded on there. Two of the posts have sleeves on then that "may" have expanded locking them in place. WD40 will not penetrate.
              _________________________________________
              1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
              Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
              Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
              1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

              Also have:
              2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

              Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by RichV View Post
                I was able to get the pistons moving again so they are not the problem. It won't even give me a gap to work with.

                On another site, someone had to soak it in oil for a month. I did try WD40 and nothing moved. I beat it with a rubber mallet with no luck.

                It's like it's welded on there. Two of the posts have sleeves on then that "may" have expanded locking them in place. WD40 will not penetrate.
                Kroil may give ya some hope..
                81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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                • #9
                  I don't want to put a downer on you but once, using an engine from a totally beyond all help parts bike, I tried,just for the hell of it, to get the barrels off the engine. Now, before any expressions of shock and disgust from anyone, this bike was in terrible condition. Fins broken off all over the engine etc. A total wreck.

                  I tried everything to get the barrels off and finally got a 5lb sledge hammer and whacked them repeatedly. They still did not come off. I tried levers in the pry points and would not advise using them..all that happened was that they got chewed up.

                  I gave up.


                  The only thing I'm wondering is maybe the careful use of heat? That's the only thing I didn't try
                  XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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                  • #10
                    Just been thinking about my recent XJR exhaust stud from hell. One of the eight would not come out. What eventually got the stud to move was the use of a welder. I welded a bolt onto it and the heat from the welding loosened the stud.

                    So....if you get desperate, why not remove any of the barrel bolts that you can and, for the seized ones, weld something...anything..onto them. The heat may free up the sleeves, allowing the bolts to come out. I would have thought that barrels on the cases but no bolts or sleeves might just make the barrels easier to get off.
                    XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I tried using a heat gun to free it up. No good.

                      For a while there I was thinking I could make the engine work. Loosing hope as time goes along.
                      _________________________________________
                      1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
                      Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
                      Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
                      1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

                      Also have:
                      2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

                      Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by RichV View Post
                        I tried using a heat gun to free it up. No good.

                        For a while there I was thinking I could make the engine work. Loosing hope as time goes along.
                        It's not hot enough, I'd say. Weld the seized studs and get them out.......
                        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          First word of advice, toss the WD-40 if your goal is to loosen a stuck part. It is all but useless at this. Get the PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. It is a thousand times more effective.

                          I only did this once, and it was on a good condition well taken care of engine, so it was not horribly difficult. For you, since you do not weld (I don't either) I would take a piece of thick angle iron. like this...



                          Cut it down so it can drop into the tunnel and then be turned so the leg goes into the spot Tod put his hook. Now, run the all thread through the bottom hole put a nut and washer on it, then drill through the side plate hole through the all thread and use a tight fitting bolt through both to lock it at the 90 degree angle, and to keep it from spinning. Not something I have tried, just an idea of how you might improvise a similar tool.
                          Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                          When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                          81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                          80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                          Previously owned
                          93 GSX600F
                          80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                          81 XS1100 Special
                          81 CB750 C
                          80 CB750 C
                          78 XS750

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                          • #14
                            If it were me? I would get some liquid wrench, soak it for 24 hours, and then get myself a rubber mallet, cover the fins in a old towel and start beating the S**T out of it until the jugs came free.

                            If the pistons aren't stuck it should get free but you might have to get nasty with it.

                            CAUTION: Everything above is last resort material.
                            78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
                            79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


                            "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

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                            • #15
                              If it were me? I would get some liquid wrench, soak it for 24 hours, and then get myself a rubber mallet, cover the fins in a old towel and start beating the S**T out of it until the jugs came free. I was taught the four S's: soak, shake, strike, and shout.

                              If the pistons aren't stuck it should get free but you might have to get nasty with it.

                              CAUTION: Everything above is last resort material.
                              78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
                              79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


                              "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

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