Cylinders are stuck (really stuck)

[rdmcguy]

Thinking out loud

Depending on what parts you are trying to save/use,
I am wondering if there is some way you could use the pistons as an assist in removing the cylinders,
I am not suggesting you do this however put something on top of the pistons
and also something across the deck of the cylinder and rotate the crank and use the pistons as a push tool along with prying at the base of the cylinders .
I am aware that it may damage the rods or crank(or maybe not) but maybe this will inspire a better or modified version of this idea from some one else here.
Again I was just thinking out loud
Good luck

[Schming]

First word of advice, toss the WD-40 if your goal is to loosen a stuck part. It is all but useless at this. Get the PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. It is a thousand times more effective.

x2

Flood the studs with PB Blaster and shoot it around the base gasket and leave it sit, then do it again and while your waiting to do it the third time find someone with a welder to make you the right tool for the job. And as Fred will say "Fer Chriiissakes" don't go beatin' on anything or ya might as well scrap it.
If you were closer I'd make you the tool myself, so if ya can't find anyone local LMK and for shipping I'll get one together fer ya.

Todd, would you be able to post the dimensions of the plate and holes ? TIA

[TomB]

I used your method here in your pic, but as the lads say theres a risk of breakage of the ali,



So there are 2 slots either side of the cam chain tunnel that go right through that I got 2 strips of steel through, my clamps went onto the steels instead of the ali so no risk of breaking anything and I could get much more pressure on the clamps, gentle tapping with a soft mallet and it inched off.







Mind you don't bend the camchain tensioner down.

[CaptonZap]

One other problem that I can see is that a rubber mallet isn't the tool of my choice for this job.
You are looking for something to jolt the parting sufaces, like a rawhide or hard plastic faced mallet.
A rubber mallet just absorbs most of the force by compressing the rubber. Make sure that what ever you hit it with is softer than aluminum.
A piece of 2X4 with one end cut to fit the inside of the cylinder and the other end out where you can whack it with a hammer would also be a thought.
If you have a muffler cutting air gun, and a flat faced set for it, you could try that on the end of the 2X4.
It is amazing what vibration can do.
CZ

[fredintoon]

I read about this.
The barrels are stuck on the studs.
Double-nut the studs to unscrew them out of the crankcase and then the barrels should lift off.

[TomB]

Yeah that's what I thought too Fred, I tried two nuts, Stilsons, and proper stud extractors from the w/shop. Nothing would budge the studs!!!

[Schming]

I read about this.
The barrels are stuck on the studs.
Double-nut the studs to unscrew them out of the crankcase and then the barrels should lift off.

If you use this method be sure to soak the studs with PB Blaster or Kroil to loosen the hold the electrolysis has on them.

Also when ya get ready to loosen the studs, tighten them first to crack the bond. GL

[James England]

I read about this.
The barrels are stuck on the studs.
Double-nut the studs to unscrew them out of the crankcase and then the barrels should lift off.

A mere 15mm of M8 stud on my exhaust manifold refused to budge. Double nuts and triple nuts didn't work and all rotated on the stud. I wonder if the barrel studs will be the same? I think HEAT is where it's at..... Borrow a basic stick welder and heat those studs......maybe weld a rod to the top to make a T and get a wrench on it after a good heating. Would replacement studs be difficult to get hold of?

[D0wn5h1ft]

Another thing, and I've only seen this done once, is hook up a high current relay to a car battery and connect one terminal to your stud and then other end as close as you can to the stud (as I remember it they hooked it up to a fin) and flip that relay for a few seconds. It essentially does the same thing as a welder, super heats the stud making it glow orange-hot.

DISCLAIMER: extremely dangerous, high risk of burns, probably shouldn't do this unless you're an electrician who knows what they are doing.

Advice brought to you by: king of bad ideas.

[Ken Talbot]

Here's a repeat of a reply I posted quite a while back, in case you haven't come across it or tried this method yet:

Have a look at this photo of a cylinder block just after it has lifted free of the crankcase:

You'll notice a lot of cr@p built up around the bottom of the studs, especially the ones on the front side. Over time, a lot of road grit blasts onto the unprotected shaft of the studs, it mixes with a bit oil dripping down the studs, then engine heat fuses the whole works into a nasty, solid plug. Get lots of penetrating oil in there, and use some fine dental picks to pick out the fused plugs. Do this on all of the studs, then go back to work with your rubber mallet to knock the cylinder block free. Be real careful of prying...

[b.walker5]

Another thing, and I've only seen this done once, is hook up a high current relay to a car battery and connect one terminal to your stud and then other end as close as you can to the stud (as I remember it they hooked it up to a fin) and flip that relay for a few seconds. It essentially does the same thing as a welder, super heats the stud making it glow orange-hot.

DISCLAIMER: extremely dangerous, high risk of burns, probably shouldn't do this unless you're an electrician who knows what they are doing.

Advice brought to you by: king of bad ideas.

Yeah, Nah. I probably wouldnt do this, unless i really wanted to 'toast' my battery, or risk blowing it into orbit. And I AM an electrician that knows what he's doing.

[latexeses]

I'll second motoman on this one and suggest the KROIL treatment. With a bit of heat it really loosens thing up. just warm it up. It will draw the oil better.

Might also give some Corrosion-X. I have had terrific results with that. Same with the heat here. Used to work on old rusted pump motors and this really worked for me.

Good luck. Don't give up and bust it up.

[macdaddy]

soulutions

believe it or not , ive been using coca-cola for years to do these kinds of things , drench what you need to , 12 hours later repeat , ect. ect. till it comes apart , wont take long

[MaximPhil]

Another thing, and I've only seen this done once, is hook up a high current relay to a car battery and connect one terminal to your stud and then other end as close as you can to the stud (as I remember it they hooked it up to a fin) and flip that relay for a few seconds. It essentially does the same thing as a welder, super heats the stud making it glow orange-hot.

DISCLAIMER: extremely dangerous, high risk of burns, probably shouldn't do this unless you're an electrician who knows what they are doing.

Advice brought to you by: king of bad ideas.

Hi Downshift, You forgot the introduction: Hold my Beer and watch this
Phil

[b.walker5]

believe it or not , ive been using coca-cola for years to do these kinds of things , drench what you need to , 12 hours later repeat , ect. ect. till it comes apart , wont take long

Imagine what it does to your gut...