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New Auto Cam Chain Tensioner/Timing Issue?

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  • New Auto Cam Chain Tensioner/Timing Issue?

    I've just replaced my old cam chain tensioner with an auto adjuster from an 83 Venture as my old one was near at the end of it's adjustment. I followed the procedures posted here on the site and all went smoothly. The new cct bolted right up and fits perfectly.

    On the flip side, the bike is now idling low (at around 500rpms), lopes a little at idle and is stumbling, almost like it's loading up, until approximately 3000rpm. Seems to be lacking power now above 3000 as well.

    I'm at 42000 miles, have recently rebuilt the carbs and synced them and have had no running issues whatsoever until I swapped the CCT. Obviously I need to check the timing first, but has anyone had an issue like this or have any thoughts?
    '79 XS11 Standard
    43000 miles, pod filters, 11in rear shocks, auto cct.

  • #2
    was your bike on the centerstand when you did this swap? any new, funny noises coming from the top end?

    Comment


    • #3
      I would pop the valve cover and check the cam alignment dots if you noticed a definite loss of power. Chain could have skipped a sprocket tooth when the tensioner was out.
      2H7 (79) owned since '89
      3H3 owned since '06

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

      Comment


      • #4
        If your OEM CCT was near the end of its adjustment, it means the cam chain is worn and should be replaced. Putting the acct on wouldn't resolve that.

        But, you said the bike ran fine before the swap. My guess is the worn chain has so much slack that it's jumped a tooth when you were doing the job. As has already been said, I'd check the dots on the cams for correct alignment
        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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        • #5
          I'm praying for you buddy . . .
          1979 XS1100F
          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the advice. I'll pop the valve cover in the morning, take a look and reply.
            '79 XS11 Standard
            43000 miles, pod filters, 11in rear shocks, auto cct.

            Comment


            • #7
              You may as well check the valve clearances while you have the lid off.....
              XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

              Comment


              • #8
                You didn't say if it was on the center stand, did you line up the correct mark on the timing wheel, did you line up the correct timing mark by turning the engine clockwise and not turning it counterclockwise even the slightest amount if you over shot the timing mark? Did you rotate the engine by hand a few times after the swap?

                Yeah, you gotta take a look inside now but just curious about the answers to the stuff above...
                Howard

                ZRX1200

                BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462

                Comment


                • #9
                  Ya, I did this upgrade early last summer and ended up being off 1 tooth. No damage done according to my compression tester and butt-dyno. I ended up replacing the chain this past winter anyway. The two dots were starting to wander apart too much for me.

                  Ill bet your chain slipped off the crank one tooth when you installed the tensioner.

                  Good luck!
                  1) Fire up Internet Explorer
                  2) http://www.yahoo.com
                  3) type "www.mapquest.com" into the Yahoo search page.
                  4) go about day as VP managing multi-million dollar financial contracts.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    +1. If the OEM tensioner was near the end of travel, you need to replace the chain. Don't wait for it to break!
                    Marty (in Mississippi)
                    XS1100SG
                    XS650SK
                    XS650SH
                    XS650G
                    XS6502F
                    XS650E

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Morning Gentlemen,

                      Worst fears confirmed after taking the cam cover off - it's definitely off a tooth. With the crank (after rotating clockwise a few times) lined up to the 'T', the dots on the cam's are about 1/4 inch to the left of the alignment arrows.

                      I'm going to attempt to correct this in the bike by unbolting the cam sprockets, removing the tensioner, tying the chain up to the frame to keep tension on the intake side of the chain and rotating the cams manually. There's a great post on 'this' procedure by Crazy Steve that I've gone over thoroughly.

                      http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...cam+adjustment

                      Any last minute suggestions or pointers? Thanks.
                      '79 XS11 Standard
                      43000 miles, pod filters, 11in rear shocks, auto cct.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yes, follow Steve's post exactly. Make sure wheel is on "C" mark, and hand-rotate the engine clockwise many times to assure cam dots align.
                        1979 XS1100F
                        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          'T' when lining up the dots on the cams and 'C' when reinstalling the tensioner. Correct?
                          '79 XS11 Standard
                          43000 miles, pod filters, 11in rear shocks, auto cct.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Dots and arrows at top dead center - the T-mark!
                            Skids (Sid Hansen)

                            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yes, and "C" when pulling/installing CCT. DO NOT rotate the crank till the CCT is installed, and only then hand-rotate that thing a gazillion times making sure the dots line-up at the "T" mark. Oh yeah, one more thing: when u pull the chain over the sprocket, pull as hard as you can from the back side to make sure there is no slack, and it is indeed on the crank sprocket.
                              1979 XS1100F
                              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                              Comment

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