Bearings

[jjz28]

So, these are for the rear wheel? How do you check it? I am low on $$ right now but would like a one next week if still available. Thanks.

[WMarshy]

Actually, it doesn't make any difference. The FD swap doesn't affect the wheel bearings. The bearings are in the wheel itself, you see, and not the FD. I put a 750FD on my XS1100 no problem. When you take the wheel off the bike, both bearings... the LHS caged roller and the RHS ball-bearing... are in the wheel.

haha, I dont know why I was thinking it was used in the FD... It all makes sense now. Im just glad to have one now, I will be sure to write myself a note and put it with the bearing so I know what it is for in the future.

[James England]

So, these are for the rear wheel? How do you check it? I am low on $$ right now but would like a one next week if still available. Thanks.

Take your rear wheel off and remove any excess grease (if there is any grease in there). Turn the central 'tube' of the bearing and feel carefully for slack, grinding, uneven turning. It's best to have virtually no grease in there for this process. If you can move the tube up and down, or if there is crunching, grinding or similar, you should replace it. If not, re-pack with grease and continute to use it. A spare bearing, if you can afford one,is a good idea though, because they are difficult to get usually.

[jjz28]

How many mile do they generally last? Mine bike has almost 13 thousand miles on it now. Can you test it be trying to wiggle the wheel on the bike like a wheel bearing on a car?

[James England]

How many mile do they generally last? Mine bike has almost 13 thousand miles on it now. Can you test it be trying to wiggle the wheel on the bike like a wheel bearing on a car?

Well, the thing is, you have two bearings in the wheel hub and the wheel sits on splines on the final drive gearbox, so doing a car type test isn't really the way to do it. You're better off taking the time (even then it doesn't take long) to examine the bearing as I mentioned before. How long they last really does depend on how well they've been looked after. Your best bet is to have a look.......I'd think 13,000 miles isn't too much though but best to check

[DGXSER]

The biggest cause of bearing failure is lack of grease. If the bike lived outside and was ridden in inclement weather slot of its life, it will probably need a bearing sooner rather than later. If it spent most of its life in a garage and as a sunny day rider, it is less likely to need the bearing replaced. In either case, proper maintenance of the grease is still the biggest determining factor in bearing life.

as far as milage though, porperly maintained, the factory bearing should be good for 100k miles or so.

[James England]

as far as milage though, porperly maintained, the factory bearing should be good for 100k miles or so.

That's the thing, many aren't. People have bought them for bikes with 30,000 or less. My own OEM lasted 41,000. The grease tends to dry out and it does tend to be a neglected bearing which is odd, I suppose, since the wheels are off regularly for tyre changes.

[DeanR]

Regular maintenance would consist of what? I just feel mine when I have the wheel off. Can wheel bearings be greased when they are in the wheel?

[James England]

Regular maintenance would consist of what? I just feel mine when I have the wheel off. Can wheel bearings be greased when they are in the wheel?

This one can. You just pull out the tube in the middle of the bearing and remove grease from the bearing with a clean cloth. Twist the rollers round and wipe out the old grease. The rollers are caged and won't come out unless the bearing is damaged. Repack with new grease.

It's a simple process but, as your question shows, many people are unaware of this bearing for years and years, hence it breaking up. The grease dries out and goes like wax after a few years. It really does need regular changing.

You should remove all the grease you can and then feel the bearing for smooth turning, without crunchy, stiff bits or play in an up and down direction. If the bearing is smooth all round when turned and with no play, then it's OK.

[DeanR]

Haven't had the XS wheels off in a while, so I'm referring to my Honda wheels, one of which I'm looking at right now. Assuming bearings are similar. I don't know what you mean by pulling the tube out. Nothing pulls out. I have not replaced wheel bearings but it looks like a single unit that is pressed in. Bearings themselves not visible to check/add grease. Guess maybe I should pull an XS wheel eh?

[James England]

Haven't had the XS wheels off in a while, so I'm referring to my Honda wheels, one of which I'm looking at right now. Assuming bearings are similar. I don't know what you mean by pulling the tube out. Nothing pulls out. I have not replaced wheel bearings but it looks like a single unit that is pressed in. Bearings themselves not visible to check/add grease. Guess maybe I should pull an XS wheel eh?

Err...yes! The bearings are not similar. That's why they're Unobtanium usually. Most wheels have ball-bearings pressed either side of the wheel, or sometimes two ball-bearings on one side and one on the other. The XS1100 has what's called a caged needle roller bearing (also used on the XS850 only). There is a central 'tube' which comes out easily to reveal a cage with rollers all round it. It has to hefty to handle the forces at the rear end of these bikes.

Your Honda probably has sealed ball-bearings with a metal or plastic cover over the balls/grease. The XS1100 has one of these on the rear right (and both on the front wheel). Sealed bearings usually require no maintenance but the caged needle roller bearing does, because it's not sealed. I suspect that's what's led to the 'issue' of this bearing on the XS1100. People, including me, just tend to ignore them. In your case, you don't actually know it's there! See that I mean?? They give 30 years+ of loyal service and then pack in. Then people panic when they realise how impossible/difficult they've been to get hold of and find they can't use their bike. I know what it feels like and finally found a NOS Yamaha one which cost me $108 or something ludicrous like that. Hence me deciding to nail this thing once and for all! So far, 170+ have gone all over the world.

[jjz28]

i hate to sound stupid but could someone post up a pic of the wheel with the bearing? By left hand side, is that while sitting on the bike? Thanks. my bike was a good weather bike and maintaned in a garage all its life but i dont know it the bearing was ever greased or not.

[DeanR]

Thanks for the explanation James.

[crazy steve]

i hate to sound stupid but could someone post up a pic of the wheel with the bearing? By left hand side, is that while sitting on the bike?

The bearing is behind the seal seen....

[James England]

i hate to sound stupid but could someone post up a pic of the wheel with the bearing? By left hand side, is that while sitting on the bike? Thanks. my bike was a good weather bike and maintaned in a garage all its life but i dont know it the bearing was ever greased or not.

The bearing isn't actually visible when the wheel is on the bike. The FD hides it. You'll see the bearing once you take wheel off.