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WTF Exhaust Gaskets, are you too good for your home!?!

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  • #31
    Why not to use just any SS studs

    Thread galling seems to be the most prevalent with fasteners made of stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, and other alloys which self-generate an oxide surface film for corrosion protection. During fastener tightening, as pressure builds between the contacting and sliding thread surfaces, protective oxides are broken, possibly wiped off, and interface metal high points shear or lock together. This cumulative clogging-shearing-locking action causes increasing adhesion. In the extreme, galling leads to seizing - the actual freezing together of the threads. If tightening is continued, the fastener can be twisted off or its threads ripped out.

    Carpenter Technologies, the fastener industry's largest supplier of stainless steel raw material, refers to this type of galling in their technical guide as "cold welding." Anyone who has seen a bolt and nut with this problem understands the graphic nature of this description.

    The IFI and Carpenter Technologies give three suggestions for dealing with the problem of thread galling in the use of stainless steel fasteners:

    1. Slowing down the installation RPM speed will frequently reduce, or sometimes solve completely, the problem. As the installation RPM increases, the heat generated during tightening increases. As the heat increases, so does the tendency for the occurrence of thread galling.
    2. Lubricating the internal and/or external threads frequently eliminates thread galling. The suggested lubricants should contain substantial amounts of molybdenum disulfide (moly), graphite, mica, or talc. Some proprietary, extreme pressure waxes may also be effective. You must be aware of the end use of the fasteners before settling on a lubricant. Stainless steel is frequently used in food related applications, which may make some lubricants unacceptable. Lubricants can be applied at the point of assembly or pre-applied as a batch process similar to plating. Several chemical companies offer anti-galling lubricants. One such source, EM Corporation, suggests their Permaslik¨ RAC product for use at the point of assembly. They suggest Everlube¨ 620C for batch, pre-applying to stainless steel fasteners.
    3. Using different stainless alloy grades for the bolt and the nut reduces galling. The key here is the mating of materials having different hardnesses. If one of the components is 316 and the other is 304 they're less likely to gall than if they're both of the same alloy grade. This is because different alloys work-harden at different rates.

    Another factor affecting thread galling in stainless steel fastener applications is thread roughness. The rougher the thread flanks, the greater the likelihood galling will occur. In an application where the bolt is galling with the internal thread, the bolt is usually presumed to be at fault, because it is the breaking component. Generally, it is the internal thread that is causing the problem instead of the bolt. This is because most bolt threads are smoother than most nut threads. Bolt threads are generally rolled, therefore, their thread flanks are relatively smooth. Internal threads are always cut, producing rougher thread flanks than those of the bolts they are mating with. The reason galling problems are inconsistent is probably due largely to the inconsistencies in the tapping operation. Rougher than normal internal threads may be the result of the use of dull taps or the tapping may have been done at an inappropriately high RPM.

    BUT I searched a little and read a lot and heres some info on high tensile strength SS studs.


    ARP manufactures a variety of premium grade bolt and stud kits to
    facilitate installation of exhaust headers including the popular stainless stud
    kit with 12-point nuts. The Stainless 300 material is not affected by corrosion
    or extreme heat, making it ideal for the application. What’s more, the
    compact 12-point nut lets you easily slip a socket close to the pipe. Each ARP
    accessory stud or bolt kit includes the specific number of parts for your application,
    plus premium-quality washers and hex or 12-point nuts, as required.
    Studs are manufactured with a unique nut-starter nose that helps prevent
    cross-threading. Studs and bolts come either black oxide chrome moly or
    Stainless 300. Both are nominally rated at 170,000 psi tensile strength;
    substantially stronger than Grade 8 hardware. Specially drilled “NASCAR”
    models are available for those who wish to safety wire their header bolts to
    Special “NASCAR” model prevent loosening

    Thanxs to Our friend Mathh for this info, from this previous post, on this topic.

    { 10-01-2008, 05:30 AM
    Mathh
    XStremely XSive Join Date: Nov 2006
    Location: Beek, Netherlands
    Posts: 291

    Thanks to Miti from the UK forum, there are two types :

    part# 95611-08625-00;
    Internal thread - 16 mm long , external thread - 18 mm long, overall length - 41 mm (centre shank - 7 mm)

    part# 95621-08615-00 (same as 3H3);
    Internal thread - 15 mm long, external thread - 12 mm long, overall length - 31 mm (centre shank - 4 mm)}

    The longer studs @ 41mm are approx. 1 19/32'' which the 1.5'' will work for the Standards.

    The shorter studs @ 31mm are approx. 1 7/32'' which the 1.25'' will work for the Specials.



    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-8012/ (for Standards)

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-8011/ (for Specials)

    A little pricey @ $ 10.00 a peice, but another option.
    1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
    1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
    1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
    1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
    1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

    Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

    Comment


    • #32
      lucky

      i never thought id feel so lucky to have OEM nuts and studs. great research on all the threads. if it wasnt for all u dedicated experts who participate in all of the posts, i probably would have sold my 81SH instead of making her roadworthy again and giving her life back. thanks to all, just sayin!
      Max

      81 XS1100SH Black Beast Mutt
      Kerker 4/1
      stock carbs and air box.
      78 headlite, handle bars,
      1 set of ea-160/85mph guages,
      crash bars, cruise control

      Other 2 Wheelers
      78 XS1100E jet kit, Kerker 4/1, air pods, jet kit-RIP
      94 CBR1000F jet kit,Two Bros pipe, K&N Filter

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by Schming View Post
        The longer studs @ 41mm are approx. 1 19/32'' which the 1.5'' will work for the Standards.

        The shorter studs @ 31mm are approx. 1 7/32'' which the 1.25'' will work for the Specials.
        You do need to check your exhaust to see which length stud you need; while I've never seen a Special exhaust with the longer flanges, I have seen standards with both types...
        Last edited by crazy steve; 03-10-2012, 10:25 AM.
        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

        '78E original owner - resto project
        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
        '82 XJ rebuild project
        '80SG restified, red SOLD
        '79F parts...
        '81H more parts...

        Other current bikes:
        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by mjpxs11sh View Post
          i never thought id feel so lucky to have OEM nuts and studs. great research on all the threads. if it wasnt for all u dedicated experts who participate in all of the posts, i probably would have sold my 81SH instead of making her roadworthy again and giving her life back. thanks to all, just sayin!
          This forum is the only thing that has kept me from lighting both my bikes on fire yet! Great info from everyone, looks like I have more shopping to do...sigh...
          Joab

          "If nothing else, it will be interesting..."
          ______________________________________________
          1979 XS1100SF
          1972 XS2 650
          ______________________________________________
          Ozark, Alabama

          Comment


          • #35
            Part # Links

            The following links show where these studs are used and what models they are used on.

            BUT it would be best to use Steves advice and check the length.


            http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...-08625-00.html (41mm)

            http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...-08615-00.html (31mm)
            1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
            1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
            1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
            1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
            1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

            Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

            Comment


            • #36
              JAT here but every set of headers I have bought new came with 2 different sets of spacers for proper fitment. Some were split versions while others went on before the pipes went into the collector. If you are missing spacers that were intended to be there you may chase the issue around a bit. Not to say that different sized studs etc will not work, but something to check out.
              2-79 XS1100 SF
              2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
              80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
              Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

              Comment


              • #37
                Hey, 1100s are like Siberian Huskies right? Because when I left to get something to eat, I had 8 bolts holding my exhaust headers on, but when I got home it had shed four of them...
                Joab

                "If nothing else, it will be interesting..."
                ______________________________________________
                1979 XS1100SF
                1972 XS2 650
                ______________________________________________
                Ozark, Alabama

                Comment


                • #38
                  WTF exhaust gaskets, are you too good for your home?

                  Using studs makes the install much easier. As Steve and others said, the gaskets are a seal between the head and header. Once you get the header 'hung' on the studs, install the muffler supports loosely. Then tighten the headers first, keeping the mounting nuts even as you alternately tighten all of 'em. Once they're all snug, button up the muffler mounts. You may have to retighten the headers after a few hundred miles.

                  Comment

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