WTF Exhaust Gaskets, are you too good for your home!?!

[motoman]

PS, you just want to seal the head pipes with the crush gaskets. There is not need to torque the heck out of it! Also, I use "never Sieze" on the bolt. I hope it doesn't cook into something like glue...

Should'nt ever be an issue Sid. Most the anti-sieze products are good up to 1200degrees and that area only comes up to bout a third of that or less, IIRC from using my quick check infra-red little point and shoot thingie.

[ViperRon]

I would use studs with nuts on them some hardware stores have them in longer lengths. Make sure you get them long enough as it seems your bolt on clamps are a little further back from the flange than normal and you want to get a good threading into the head.

[Joab]

Use antiseize and buy hardware long enough to keep me from punching kittens in the face. Got it.

[BA80]

You can get SS allthread stock from any good fastener supplier and make your own any length you want.

It's 8mm x 1.25 thread.

[Schming]

Watch...

...using SS on the exhaust studs as it is a softer metal and when exposed to that kind of heat the nuts will usually seize to the threads and tear them off upon removal. Also galvanic corrosion will insue as the aluminum head and SS studs have very different voltages. Grade 5 or 8 mild steel studs installed with anti-seize would be best. IMHO

http://www.bodrum-bodrum.com/vorteks...nic_series.htm

[XJfan1]

...using SS on the exhaust studs as it is a softer metal and when exposed to that kind of heat the nuts will usually seize to the threads and tear them off upon removal. Also galvanic corrosion will insue as the aluminum head and SS studs have very different voltages. Grade 5 or 8 mild steel studs installed with anti-seize would be best. IMHO

http://www.bodrum-bodrum.com/vorteks...nic_series.htm

with a good grade of stainless bolt you should not see any galvanic reaction at all. with a lesser grade of stainless it will corode just like a normal bolt. at work we use all stainless hardware on all our pumps and equipment. we deal with alot of nasty chemicals. caustics organic peroxides and iodines. we have over time found suppliers that sell quality hardware. all stainless is not created equal. grainger or any good pipe supply company should have what you would need and with some polish they can shine like chrome.

[motoman]

...using SS on the exhaust studs as it is a softer metal and when exposed to that kind of heat the nuts will usually seize to the threads and tear them off upon removal. Also galvanic corrosion will insue as the aluminum head and SS studs have very different voltages. Grade 5 or 8 mild steel studs installed with anti-seize would be best. IMHO

http://www.bodrum-bodrum.com/vorteks...nic_series.htm

Totally agree! Use the REAL studs from a reputable parts store(NAPA) or fastener supplier.

[DGXSER]

Just to be sure Joab, are you certain you do not have studs with alen nuts on them? When I took the exhaust off of Banshee when I forst got her, over half the studs backed out of the head instead of the nut coming off the stud. It will look alot like an allen head bolt.

I do have one bolt in the head instead of stud and nut due to one being basically welded together to the point I could not get them apart. In fact, I went ahead and bought all allen head bolts to put on the exhaust with. so far more than a few thousand miles with no problems. The book calls for 14.5 ft-lbs on the exhaust flange bolts. Torque is torque, so should be the same force regardless is there is a blank spot in the threading, it will pull just the same on the threads in the head.

[Schming]

with a good grade of stainless bolt you should not see any galvanic reaction at all. with a lesser grade of stainless it will corode just like a normal bolt. at work we use all stainless hardware on all our pumps and equipment. we deal with alot of nasty chemicals. caustics organic peroxides and iodines. we have over time found suppliers that sell quality hardware. all stainless is not created equal. grainger or any good pipe supply company should have what you would need and with some polish they can shine like chrome.

If you look at the chart in the link you'll see that even the higher quality SS has a higher voltage, than the Aluminum Alloys, which electrochemically reacts causing corrosion of the aluminum as it has the lower voltage. Just sayin', but that didn't stop me from replacing all the stock bolts in the engine and carbs with SS. They are purdy.

My main concern is using them in an extreme temperature location and how easy they gall to the nuts.

[jetmechmarty]

Where are the allen nuts sourced from? My bike spit out the #2 head pipe last fall. I replaced all of the nuts with stainless acorn nuts. Am I inviting a problem? There is anti-seize compound on the nuts.

[bikerphil]

Yamaha still has them at about $1.50 a pop, P/N 90179-08599-00

[trbig]

Not all OEM studs are created equal...


I can't tell you wich model/head each is, and may be just different between the XJ/XS, but the stock studs on all these bikes aren't the same. Some models have a longer stud and some have a little short one. If the flanges on that exhaust were set up for a bike that uses the longer studs,(Which it looks like) anyone with the shorter ones will have a HECK of a time getting any of the exhaust nuts to start.

I realize this is non-point since he's replacing the studs, but if he replaces them with the short version, he may still have a heck of a time. there's been several times I used double the gaskets on those crush style exhaust gaskets.

[crazy steve]

Stainless on exhaust is a no-no...

+1 on what Motoman and Schming said.... I'll use SS bolts/nuts a lot of places, but not there. The chances of it galling and breaking off are just too high...

[skids]

Use antiseize and buy hardware long enough to keep me from punching kittens in the face. Got it.

The horror!

[DiverRay]

Late Chevy smallblock exhaust studs WILL WORK on the XS11!! I bought a "kit" from the local auto parts store that had the studs and bronze nuts for one head, and it worked on my "E". Nice part is the nuts are self locking, but being bronze they will NOT lock to the studs.