Carbs d@#m pos!!

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

I am listening

I am listening to ya this time Phil, Found a set of new brass floats out of Canada, but even those are 110 bucks and not sure they are OEM's Mine look fine, no dents, no bubbles in hot water and nothing inside them when I pull the carbs and check, I am starting to think the floats are OK, as I had not done the "stop open" setting you told me about before I put in the 920 POS floats. So I am going to try, ONE MORE TIME, useing ALL OEM parts back in my carbs with the stop open tang set to them, they may have just been binding as it was way to wide open before, thanks

Yes they will work, heard horror stories with that mod too, cheap Chinese knockoff floats vary in size and binding up, YMMV. I'll say it one more time, these carbs will operate at thier best using parts that were designed for their particular model, JMHO.

[bikerphil]

Hope you have better luck this time bro. The way I configured my vacuum fuel shutoff valve was from fuel tap > filter > vac valve > short line to carbs. That way there is very little fuel after the shutoff valve to leak into the carbs. I know this might be a challenge with the octy so far forward in it's mounting location. Be aware that the bare metal needle/seat combo is by all means not going to make a 100% perfect seal. I find that it is not 100% crucial to have a perfect needle/seat seal as long as the fuel supply can be stopped by other means each and every time the bike is shut down.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Octy

I have a spare Octy that I am thinking of adding right at the base of the carb "T" inlets, then the filters, then the other octy, then the petcock cutoff. I know it sounds like over kill, but I am damm tired of doing 20 dollar oil / filter changes and wondering when I will spin a bearing

Hope you have better luck this time bro. The way I configured my vacuum fuel shutoff valve was from fuel tap > filter > vac valve > short line to carbs. That way there is very little fuel after the shutoff valve to leak into the carbs. I know this might be a challenge with the octy so far forward in it's mounting location. Be aware that the bare metal needle/seat combo is by all means not going to make a 100% perfect seal. I find that it is not 100% crucial to have a perfect needle/seat seal as long as the fuel supply can be stopped by other means each and every time the bike is shut down.

[bikerphil]

I have a spare Octy that I am thinking of adding right at the base of the carb "T" inlets, then the filters, then the other octy, then the petcock cutoff. I know it sounds like over kill, but I am damm tired of doing 20 dollar oil / filter changes and wondering when I will spin a bearing

Man I thought one octy was a pain, and you're gonna run two of them? lol. I guess if you have got gas in your oil before it's ok to be overly cautious, 20+ years I have never had gas in the oil <knock>.

[JasonRedbeard]

Instead of running two octy's, why not to turn the inlet T's between the carbs so that they're pointing DOWN and put the octy BELOW the level of the needle valves? That way the fuel between the octy and the carb cannot possibly run into the carb, even if the needles do stick open. And even if the octy leaks, you'll only get as much fuel as there is in the lines and filters (provided you turn your petcocks off when parked.)

Petcock -> filter -> line running below carbs -> octy -> line running back up to carb inlets.

In fact....I think I'm gonna do this myself next time I have the carbs off the bike.

[motoman]

Instead of running two octy's, why not to turn the inlet T's between the carbs so that they're pointing DOWN and put the octy BELOW the level of the needle valves? That way the fuel between the octy and the carb cannot possibly run into the carb, even if the needles do stick open. And even if the octy leaks, you'll only get as much fuel as there is in the lines and filters (provided you turn your petcocks off when parked.)

Petcock -> filter -> line running below carbs -> octy -> line running back up to carb inlets.

In fact....I think I'm gonna do this myself next time I have the carbs off the bike.

Or, if using the older carbs having the metal needle try a little jewelers rouge or similar and a Q-tip and polish up the seats a bit creating a uniform seat again.......JAT, and has been done by others here in the past....

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

??????

Say what Phil, I thought said you had washed your moter out with gas at least as many times as me How is that new aftermarket Octy working, for real, I might go that way

Man I thought one octy was a pain, and you're gonna run two of them? lol. I guess if you have got gas in your oil before it's ok to be overly cautious, 20+ years I have never had gas in the oil <knock>.

[bikerphil]

Say what Phil, I thought said you had washed your moter out with gas at least as many times as me How is that new aftermarket Octy working, for real, I might go that way

OEM, I've had plenty of gas run out my airbox but never, as far as I know in the crankcase. My bike never goes on the centerstand unless I'm working on it, it resides under my workbench. That Pingle valve I run is perfect for the single fuel tap that I run, I'm sure you could rig up a second T connection for dual fuel taps. Anyway, it's the best $90 I've ever spent, piece of mind is priceless. Here they are if you decide to go that way....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

[ViperRon]

2 cents more

I typically have the opinion that the simpler the better on engineering. In plumming the rule was the more complicated you make it the easier it is to get a leak. I believe that here people have covered all the basic problems and have made cheap cures. Steve come up with the way to make a complete cut off on the fuel petcocks. I am not sure who but some one came up with filters to block rust trash etc. Anyone that has had carb issues understands the issues with floats sticking and needles sticking. I threw the Octy away as soon as I looked at it nearly 30 years ago. I have had filters for more then 20 years. At times my fuel petcocks do not stop imediately but I could always do the Steve mod. The only problem I am still plagued with and see is getting water in gas at stations when traveling. Has anyone found a cure for water as I know a bubble of it can cause a float needle to stick open.

[DAVINCI]

I've been lurking this thread for a few days. Lots of great advice has already been given. I second the notion that adding more points of failure is never a good idea. And I'll add that I have had xv920 viton-tipped float needles for a couple of years on my 79F standard carbs and had not a whiff of a leak. It was a direct swap.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Swap

Mine wasent a direct swap, 1st, I needed thicker washers to seal againest the carb bodies and the housings wouldnt screw in enough to seal with the stock ones, 2nd I had to do some major bending of the float adjustments to set the hight, maybe they just dont fit the 79SF's that well

I've been lurking this thread for a few days. Lots of great advice has already been given. I second the notion that adding more points of failure is never a good idea. And I'll add that I have had xv920 viton-tipped float needles for a couple of years on my 79F standard carbs and had not a whiff of a leak. It was a direct swap.

[ddragon63]

I have a spare Octy that I am thinking of adding right at the base of the carb "T" inlets, then the filters, then the other octy, then the petcock cutoff. I know it sounds like over kill, but I am damm tired of doing 20 dollar oil / filter changes and wondering when I will spin a bearing

Damn I wanna know where your getting bike oil and filter together for $20
Damn oil by itself cost $25

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

$$$

3 qts of 20w50 Valvoline bike oil $5 X 3 =$15, $4.99 filter and add the leftover new oil from the last changes with a little Lucas, 20 bucks

Damn I wanna know where your getting bike oil and filter together for $20
Damn oil by itself cost $25

[ddragon63]

3 qts of 20w50 Valvoline bike oil $5 X 3 =$15, $4.99 filter and add the leftover new oil from the last changes with a little Lucas, 20 bucks

I've used lucas stuff in everything it seems I own. I use the fuel treatment in everything every few tanks, oil stabilizer in my jeep and diesel, I use their heavy duty gear oil in EVERYTHING!

I'm thinking of trying the Motorcycle stabilizer in Dad's bike. I know in my Jeep Which is tough on oil, cuz well I'm tough on the jeep, it sure helps extend the oil from breaking down as quick. I started using lucas when I still had the drag car. It stabilized the oil pressure over passes better. and oil pressure when having to hot lap later in rounds can make the difference of hundredths of a second in ET.

Being an old air cooled bike i'm thinking it could help in the heat of summer. might give it a try.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Lucas

Lucas, just a squrit helps these shift better IMHO. I dont add a lot as you have a oil soaked clutch, but 10% or less makes them shift nice, still big "clunk" but it goes in gear all the way IMHO

I've used lucas stuff in everything it seems I own. I use the fuel treatment in everything every few tanks, oil stabilizer in my jeep and diesel, I use their heavy duty gear oil in EVERYTHING!

I'm thinking of trying the Motorcycle stabilizer in Dad's bike. I know in my Jeep Which is tough on oil, cuz well I'm tough on the jeep, it sure helps extend the oil from breaking down as quick. I started using lucas when I still had the drag car. It stabilized the oil pressure over passes better. and oil pressure when having to hot lap later in rounds can make the difference of hundredths of a second in ET.

Being an old air cooled bike i'm thinking it could help in the heat of summer. might give it a try.