How to remove and install your Cam Chain Tensioner CCT

[ddragon63]

Define "good oil." What's best for these bikes?

<hides behind couch to avoid thrown objects>

I'm gonna put my helmet on real quick before I answer your question

I personally use good old Castrol 4T 20w-50. If they are out of that I'll use the Valvoline. Now my R1 gets Mobil1 racing 10w-40 only.... thats what its got since its birth. I'm not gonna tell you they are the best out there. All I'm saying is thats what I use. It hasn't let me down yet in any powersports machine I've owned.

[Schming]

Something...

...that may be worth mentioning is the DIRECTION of ROTATION for the "less experienced", which is denoted by the arrow on the timing plate under the left side cover (shift side). Only turn the engine CLOCKWISE in order to have all slack in the cam chain at the tensioner area so that it, the slack, will be eliminated with the adjustment or replacement of the CCT, but we all knew that

[ddragon63]

...that may be worth mentioning is the DIRECTION of ROTATION for the "less experienced", which is denoted by the arrow on the timing plate under the left side cover (shift side). Only turn the engine CLOCKWISE in order to have all slack in the cam chain at the tensioner area so that it, the slack, will be eliminated with the adjustment or replacement of the CCT, but we all knew that

+1 good point

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Good stuff

No, thats good stuff to mention as the bikes turn backwards from most to help controll the shaft drive. Also, no matter how you change the CCT, how worn the chain is can effect the end result With tension on the chain from following the CCt adjustment, "IF" the chain has too much wear, it could slip off the crank But, what the hell, doner motors are everywhere

...that may be worth mentioning is the DIRECTION of ROTATION for the "less experienced", which is denoted by the arrow on the timing plate under the left side cover (shift side). Only turn the engine CLOCKWISE in order to have all slack in the cam chain at the tensioner area so that it, the slack, will be eliminated with the adjustment or replacement of the CCT, but we all knew that

[motoman]

No, thats good stuff to mention as the bikes turn backwards from most to help controll the shaft drive.)

good to mention rotational direction.......last part not true. That direction of rotation in part was chosen by Yammy engineers as they considered torque directional which susposedly directed that torque internally directionally to the rear, not forward. That all may have been part of getting the most out of a streetable bike that all could ride, and still have the worlds quickest production scoot at that time.

[JasonRedbeard]

There may be another reason for the backwards rotation. The torque developed by an engine generates countertorque on the engine's mountings in the opposite direction that the crankshaft rotates. This means that when you crank the throttle and the bike starts to lift, the countertorque of the engine is trying to push the nose back DOWN, helping to keep your front wheel on the ground. Coincidence? Surely not.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Well golly

Well, someone keeps deleting my post, so I dont know if this will get through. Yamaha spun the motor backward to compensate for the drive shaft action, look it up if you like

good to mention rotational direction.......last part not true. That direction of rotation in part was chosen by Yammy engineers as they considered torque directional which susposedly directed that torque internally directionally to the rear, not forward. That all may have been part of getting the most out of a streetable bike that all could ride, and still have the worlds quickest production scoot at that time.

[Schming]

No, thats good stuff to mention as the bikes turn backwards from most to help controll the shaft drive. Also, no matter how you change the CCT, how worn the chain is can effect the end result With tension on the chain from following the CCt adjustment, "IF" the chain has too much wear, it could slip off the crank But, what the hell, doner motors are everywhere

OME, In the Clymers it simply states: "The cam chain should be adjusted every 3,000 miles (4,800km) or when it becomes noisy." I'm contemplating how to calculate when a CC is stretched to its max limit while using the ACCT. Should we go by mileage? Is there anyone, who wore out their cam chain, that can testify to what milage that is or will that be too broad of a spectrum as every engine is not treated equally? The stock CCT's length would give us an indication if removed with set screw in locked position and if fully extended and "it becomes noisy" one might want to remove and replace the cam chain with a new one. But how are we going to know that limit with the constant push of the ACCT? Would it make sense to keep the stock CCT in the tool box, fully extended and locked as sort of a dipstick for this measurement at certain milage intervals? ie...Remove ACCT every 10,000 miles and check depth with stock CCT, log measurement in maintaince record and reinstall ACCT repeat every 10,00 miles till full depth of stock "dipstick" is reached and then replace the cam chain. JAT

There may be another reason for the backwards rotation. The torque developed by an engine generates countertorque on the engine's mountings in the opposite direction that the crankshaft rotates. This means that when you crank the throttle and the bike starts to lift, the countertorque of the engine is trying to push the nose back DOWN, helping to keep your front wheel on the ground. Coincidence? Surely not.

I agree

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Cool

I would say, if adding a auto CCT to your bike and when removing the OEM CCT and it is almost extended to its max, add a new timeing chain to the mod If it is only half way out or less, install the new CCT and ride, the next valve adjustment, replace the cain just for JIC, or at least the 2nd time you adjust the valves, but hey, it is your motor, might run forever with just gas and oil

OME, In the Clymers it simply states: "The cam chain should be adjusted every 3,000 miles (4,800km) or when it becomes noisy." I'm contemplating how to calculate when a CC is stretched to its max limit while using the ACCT. Should we go by mileage? Is there anyone, who wore out their cam chain, that can testify to what milage that is or will that be too broad of a spectrum as every engine is not treated equally? The stock CCT's length would give us an indication if removed with set screw in locked position and if fully extended and "it becomes noisy" one might want to remove and replace the cam chain with a new one. But how are we going to know that limit with the constant push of the ACCT? Would it make sense to keep the stock CCT in the tool box, fully extended and locked as sort of a dipstick for this measurement at certain milage intervals? ie...Remove ACCT every 10,000 miles and check depth with stock CCT, log measurement in maintaince record and reinstall ACCT repeat every 10,00 miles till full depth of stock "dipstick" is reached and then replace the cam chain. JAT



I agree

[DGXSER]

The oil that is the most slickery without screwing up my clutch.

[ddragon63]

The oil that is the most slickery without screwing up my clutch.

I like that oil... where do you find it?