How to remove and install your Cam Chain Tensioner CCT

[ddragon63]

I've had a hard time finding anyone who's posted this... Everyone says to read up on it. So to make it simple for those of you without a service manual and need to reseal a leaky CCT, HERE YOU GO


pulling and restabbing the tensioner is pretty straight forward.

Removal:

rotate engine untill timing pointer lines up with the "c" on the timing plate. Remove the 2 allen bolts that hold the tensioner in place... carefully remove the tensioner.

Installation:

loosen the CCT holding bolt, compress the tensioner and tighten the bolt to lock tensioner in the retracted position.

push in on chain with finger thru tensioner hole to insure chain is poroperly seated. install CCT with a new gasket tighten the 2 mounting bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs (10Nm)

Loosen the holding bolt on the CCT, there should be an audible click as the tensioner is released and comes in contact with the chain. Make sure it does move into the chain; if not, remove it and correct any binding. tighten the holding bolt to 4.3 ft-lbs (6 Nm) and the locknut to 6.5 ft-lbs (9 Nm)

Now with that said I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you do this with the valve cover off so you can verify that the chain is on track and tensioner has put pressure on it. Just my .02

[crazy steve]

It should be noted that it's critical to have the bike upright and level, preferably on the center stand. If it's not, the cam chain can droop to one side and not engage the crankshaft sprocket.

[ddragon63]

It should be noted that it's critical to have the bike upright and level, preferably on the center stand. If it's not, the cam chain can droop to one side and not engage the crankshaft sprocket.

+1 YES thanks Steve forgot that...

[SFerinTEXAS]

And if it is removed when level on the center stand, DO NOT poke anything in on the chain. It will already be in line and poking around in there can cause it to drop and skip a tooth on the crank DAMHIK..........

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Jat

Just a thought, if you have the valve cover off, would it make sense to have someone pull up and hold the cam chain as you remove the cct and slightly rotate the exaust cam back to make sure the chain cant skip a tooth anywhere, then as you install the new cct or gasket let the adjusting spring take up the slack as you turn the cam back?

[DGXSER]

While there certainly is a few or mroe oflks who have brought about valve damage by messing with the cam chain tensioner, I can speak form experience that if you follow the proper procedure outlined here, have the bike on the centerstand, put the timing mark on the C mark (this puts the tension on the chain in the proper direction) you can remove and install the CCT without any problems or issues. I have done it more than a few times myself.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Lon and Dragon,

If folks have been doing CCT adjustments for years/ 10K+ miles, then they may not know/realize how much slack has developed in their chain. The way to figure out if the chain is at or close to it's stretch limit is when they take the CCT out with the plunger lock bolt still in place, so that they can see how far the plunger already is protruding out towards the chain...perhaps even measure this. Then release the lock bolt and see how much farther the plunger can come out towards the chain before it stops. If it doesn't come out very much farther, then their chain is reaching it's stretch limit, and replacement time is near.

So...now after learning about how much stretch has occured, they can put the CCT back in. Yes, I would suggest the valve cover off, bungie cord pulling up on the chain BEFORE they remove the CCT, and have wrench ready to rotate the exhaust cam slightly towards the intake cam as they loosen the CCT bolts so that they can take up any unknown amount of slack prior to fully removing the CCT so that there won't be an excess amount of slack chain that could drop down around the crank sprocket skipping a tooth or coming off the sprocket.

The other problem is when putting the CCT back in....IF there's a fair amount of slack in the chain...after installing the CCT to the engine...again to prevent too much slack chain from dropping they would need to release the plunger lock bolt PRIOR to rotating the exhaust cam back to allow the slack to return to the front section of the chain instead of in between the cam sprockets. SO...they won't be able to experienc the "AUDIBLE CLICK" noise, will just need to rely on the plunger spring to provide the tension to take up the slack.

Then lock the plunger bolt, this is where I would then suggest a couple of more rotations of the crank/cams just like when preparing to peform the CCT adjustment again stopping on "C", then reloosen the plunger bolt to allow it to take up any more found slack from the rotation, then relock and set the lock nut as well.

Wish I was retired so that I could contribute a lot more time towards putting together a bunch of tech tips that have been developed in the threads over the last several years! Was waiting for the "cold" weather to hit here in Virginia...but was out today in short sleaves pulling down Christmas decorations and such!

T.C.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Cool

Thats cool, I am planning on the auto upgrade and dont want to wax a motor just to do the upgrade I have heard so many horror stories from cam chain problems, that i will also do the valve alin check before I fire it up just to be sure. My chain is tight now, 18,000 on the OEM chain but seams fine, did an adj with the POS factory motor huffer and it is tight (checked while doing a valve adj) but keep reading about the OEM failures and, hay, new motor in your future Thanks

While there certainly is a few or mroe oflks who have brought about valve damage by messing with the cam chain tensioner, I can speak form experience that if you follow the proper procedure outlined here, have the bike on the centerstand, put the timing mark on the C mark (this puts the tension on the chain in the proper direction) you can remove and install the CCT without any problems or issues. I have done it more than a few times myself.

[Rasputin]

TC. We all appreciate the time you do put in. Maybe one of our more knowledgable members could do a detailed "Tech Tip" and forward it to you for posting. I for one am still learning so much that I would be hesitant to do so but many of our members have the ability. Maybe put out a call for a competition for the best/most detailed tip on a few different problems. Of course prizes would have to be recognition only unless a few of us donated to a prize pool I could part with 5 bucks just to see it happen.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Thanks

Thanks TC, that is exactly how I was thinking I would do it to make SURE that the chain cant skip a tooth, some seamed to think it was over kill, but I think it is better then MOTOR KILL I will still check all cam timming marks before start up. Also, I have heard here that the auto cct's take up more slack then the OEM. allowing for an even more streched chain to be tightened, is thay OK, or just asking for trouble

Hey Lon and Dragon,

If folks have been doing CCT adjustments for years/ 10K+ miles, then they may not know/realize how much slack has developed in their chain. The way to figure out if the chain is at or close to it's stretch limit is when they take the CCT out with the plunger lock bolt still in place, so that they can see how far the plunger already is protruding out towards the chain...perhaps even measure this. Then release the lock bolt and see how much farther the plunger can come out towards the chain before it stops. If it doesn't come out very much farther, then their chain is reaching it's stretch limit, and replacement time is near.

So...now after learning about how much stretch has occured, they can put the CCT back in. Yes, I would suggest the valve cover off, bungie cord pulling up on the chain BEFORE they remove the CCT, and have wrench ready to rotate the exhaust cam slightly towards the intake cam as they loosen the CCT bolts so that they can take up any unknown amount of slack prior to fully removing the CCT so that there won't be an excess amount of slack chain that could drop down around the crank sprocket skipping a tooth or coming off the sprocket.

The other problem is when putting the CCT back in....IF there's a fair amount of slack in the chain...after installing the CCT to the engine...again to prevent too much slack chain from dropping they would need to release the plunger lock bolt PRIOR to rotating the exhaust cam back to allow the slack to return to the front section of the chain instead of in between the cam sprockets. SO...they won't be able to experienc the "AUDIBLE CLICK" noise, will just need to rely on the plunger spring to provide the tension to take up the slack.

Then lock the plunger bolt, this is where I would then suggest a couple of more rotations of the crank/cams just like when preparing to peform the CCT adjustment again stopping on "C", then reloosen the plunger bolt to allow it to take up any more found slack from the rotation, then relock and set the lock nut as well.

Wish I was retired so that I could contribute a lot more time towards putting together a bunch of tech tips that have been developed in the threads over the last several years! Was waiting for the "cold" weather to hit here in Virginia...but was out today in short sleaves pulling down Christmas decorations and such!

T.C.

[TopCatGr58]

Lon,

Steve and Phil are real mechanics, I'm just a shadetree survivalist, so I don't have any formal training on this. I would "think" that the amount of slack that the OEM tensioner can adjust for would be considered the max amount of slack they wanted to permit prior to replacement....and this would be because of the amount of valve timing that would be thrown off with an excessively slack/stretched chain. The tensioner may be able to take up the slack....but the chain is still stretched...the distance between the chain links is still longer than OEM and so the cams are being turned a little later than they would be with a new unstretched chain.....so with more slack being able to be taken up allows more stretch=more valve timing delay!

How much is too much?? How many degrees of valve timing delay/retard before it's too much??

T.C.

[ddragon63]

All I was posting was what the book had to say for the project. All input there of is spot on to keep you from killing your motor. Rotating the motor prior to full reassembly and verifying timing marks would be a good process too. Obviously if you encounter a bind along the way you would wanna back it off and assess what's going on. Due to the length of the chain it is very possible to find a well stretched chain when you open it up.
Thanks everyone for the ad ons. I love this site. Everyone out to help everyone. You guys rock

[ddragon63]

Thanks TC, that is exactly how I was thinking I would do it to make SURE that the chain cant skip a tooth, some seamed to think it was over kill, but I think it is better then MOTOR KILL I will still check all cam timming marks before start up. Also, I have heard here that the auto cct's take up more slack then the OEM. allowing for an even more streched chain to be tightened, is thay OK, or just asking for trouble

I can only speak from years of Automotive experience but I would think the same apply's to bikes... Even auto adjusters are limited to stretch limitations. In an overhead cam auto motor the self adjuster has a stopping point for 2 reasons.

1 if the chain is pushed 2 far inside it can contact the interior of the cylinder head.

2 too much angle on the chain can put stress on the cam and cam bearings causing premature failure.

[ddragon63]

Then lock the plunger bolt, this is where I would then suggest a couple of more rotations of the crank/cams just like when preparing to peform the CCT adjustment again stopping on "C", then reloosen the plunger bolt to allow it to take up any more found slack from the rotation, then relock and set the lock nut as well.



T.C.[/QUOTE]

very very good idea T.C.

[Rasputin]

I've had a hard time finding anyone who's posted this... Everyone says to read up on it. So to make it simple for those of you without a service manual and need to reseal a leaky CCT, HERE YOU GO


pulling and restabbing the tensioner is pretty straight forward.

Removal:

rotate engine untill timing pointer lines up with the "c" on the timing plate. Remove the 2 allen bolts that hold the tensioner in place... carefully remove the tensioner.

Installation:

loosen the CCT holding bolt, compress the tensioner and tighten the bolt to lock tensioner in the retracted position.

push in on chain with finger thru tensioner hole to insure chain is poroperly seated. install CCT with a new gasket tighten the 2 mounting bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs (10Nm)

Loosen the holding bolt on the CCT, there should be an audible click as the tensioner is released and comes in contact with the chain. Make sure it does move into the chain; if not, remove it and correct any binding. tighten the holding bolt to 4.3 ft-lbs (6 Nm) and the locknut to 6.5 ft-lbs (9 Nm)

Now with that said I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you do this with the valve cover off so you can verify that the chain is on track and tensioner has put pressure on it. Just my .02

Thus the reason it is a hard to find fact on the site... there are many differing opinions but the manual is the best way to go.. until we get a sticky/Tech tip for this subject.