Need a clutch that will handle 150-200hp

[crazy steve]

Mmm...now... at risk of sounding contentious here....... has anyone who's responded here ever actually run an XS1100 with 180+bhp.... apart from me, that is? No, really, I don't want to be provocative but has anyone? I really, honestly ran my XS1100 with almost 200bhp output with nitrous.... for over a year.... loads of nitrous refills on twin tanks etc etc. Using non-OEM 10% stiffer springs, and OEM clutch. I cleaned the steel plates, of course and put the new release bearing in. I had no problems. I used the normal footchanger...

James, when you apply the power makes a difference. Did you trigger the nitrous in low gear, then wide-open-throttle power-shift up to fifth? Or wait until you were in fifth, then hit the nitrous? Big difference in terms of shock loads to the clutch.

Full throttle shifting while drag racing puts tremendous stress on the driveline, particularly the clutch. Once that turbo spools up in first gear, the power is there, and the clutch will have to release/relock with each shift. Now, if IIRC, Barnett makes a 'extra plate' conversion for these for about 15% more friction area and that would help. But I'll throw this out there; having a clutch that slips a little may not be a bad thing. That can prevent other driveline breakage that may not be as easy to repair. And what tire you run will make a difference; if running the OEM shaft drive, that will limit how big a tire you can get under the bike and limited traction may provide the 'cushion' needed. I know that back when I was racing cars, 90% of my driveline breakage occurred when shifting.

I asked my brother-in-law about this; he ran (until 2 years ago) a turbo alcohol pro-mod bike that eventually went 6.90s at 190 mph (yep, big cojones!). Before he gave up and sawed the OEM clutch/trans off the back of his motor for all-out race pieces, he was having breakage issues with them. His tip was to run an electronic wastegate, then install a switch on the shift or clutch lever that opened the gate when the lever was moved. This dumped power during shifts and let the OEM bits survive better.

Here's a old link (he's only running 7.4 @ 183 here!) to his bike... http://www.dragbike.com/dbnews/anmvi...sp?a=2353&z=14

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Ninty

Not douting Ninty's home made turbo ability's, but "turbo alcohol pro-mod bike" isent what we are talking here 25% HP gains at best. Ok, lets say he is a rocket scientist at home made turbo's 130 hp If $$ mater, then a good OEM clutch with barnett springs will more then hold back that few ponies

[bikerphil]

211 BHP at rear wheel, 9 disc Alto clutch....

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17957&highlight=alto

[crazy steve]

Bummer, neither Alto or Barnett still offer the 'extra plate' option...

[ninety4point6]

I think 150hp on 8-9lbs is definitely achieveable. We'll see. I'm hoping to get the bike done around march so we'll see.

It seems like the springs and new frictions will hold the power.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Welcome

Welcome, but 8 to 9 lbs boost will take you to 130 hp tops So I am guessing you are just having fun with dreaming / thinking what bike you would like to have someday. That is cool, hope you do it sometime

I think 150hp on 8-9lbs is definitely achieveable. We'll see. I'm hoping to get the bike done around march so we'll see.

It seems like the springs and new frictions will hold the power.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Being played

OK, we are being played, Ninety has less then 20 post on here, no pic's and has all of us building a "mystery bike" Thanks for the games Good luck with you super bike, the laugh is on us

[natemoen]

OK, we are being played, Ninety has less then 20 post on here, no pic's and has all of us building a "mystery bike" Thanks for the games Good luck with you super bike, the laugh is on us

I think you are over reacting. Just cause he is a new member doesn't mean he is not real. You seem to get into an argument in every thread! Just chill out

[James England]

James, when you apply the power makes a difference. Did you trigger the nitrous in low gear, then wide-open-throttle power-shift up to fifth? Or wait until you were in fifth, then hit the nitrous? Big difference in terms of shock loads to the clutch.[/URL]

My nitrous used a microswitch which operated when the throttle grip was turned to full twist. When I rode it from a standing start, I twisted to full in 1st and every gear until 5th. and cruised along at whatever speed. If I wanted nitrous in 5th, I just twisted to full throttle again. Basically, the nitrous, when in use, was operational from a standing start until whatever top speed was required, then 'on demand' in 5th....

BTW, I don't think a turbo will ever give the performance of nitrous, will it? You get turbo-lag, moving parts and it's still only shoving fuel in. With nitrous, you put neat fuel into the manifolds, carried/sucked in with squirts of nitrous. It's instant

[DiverRay]

James, you are correct about the difference between turbo's and bottles. The big thing about the turbo is it WILL give SOME power increase at different throttle settings/road conditions. Nitros is digital, only on at FULL throttle, and then off. For general road riding, a proper turbo setup can be fun!(think 650 seca turbo with boost kit).
I don't remember the exact figures, but I know with my 650 the boost went from 6psi to 12psi with the dealer installed kit, and the front end would come up 1 second after full throttle in almost any gear. At 20 something it was a FUN ride, till the drunk found me.
I've been looking for information on turbo's for my '78. The cases are split, crank and rods have been to A.P.E. in SoCal, and now I just need time. Doing the math from some of the turbo sites, I should be able to have 150hp at about 9K RPM and 8psi boost. The problem is finding the correct size turbo I can afford, as new is NOT cheap.

[crazy steve]

...You never have to refill your 'bottle of turbo'.....

[James England]

...You never have to refill your 'bottle of turbo'.....

True! It got to be a bit of a problem for me because of weird hire agreements on bottles from manufacturers. In the end, I found hospitals useful!

[Mathh]

My nitrous used a microswitch which operated when the throttle grip was turned to full twist. When I rode it from a standing start, I twisted to full in 1st and every gear until 5th. and cruised along at whatever speed. If I wanted nitrous in 5th, I just twisted to full throttle again. Basically, the nitrous, when in use, was operational from a standing start until whatever top speed was required, then 'on demand' in 5th....

modern setups can be triggered in multiple steps and are easier to ride.

BTW, I don't think a turbo will ever give the performance of nitrous, will it? You get turbo-lag, moving parts and it's still only shoving fuel in. With nitrous, you put neat fuel into the manifolds, carried/sucked in with squirts of nitrous. It's instant

That depends on how much money you are willing to spend. Luftmeister built the 500hp Triumph Daytona 1200 that went 200+ mph, using only modified pistons from the 1200 Trophy. That is not an easy task to fulfill with a nitrous set up. Additional to that .... if one of your nitrous solenoids f*cks up during operation ... I once saw a GS1000 push its complete crank and pistons through the crankcase onto the floor with a big bang. And these bikes have strong engines.

The principle of both nitrous and turbos are the same. You fill the cylinder with extra fuel AND extra oxigen. The turbo compresses fuel plus air, not fuel alone. The nitrous bottle adds oxigen through the first solenoid to the fuel squirted in by the second solenoid.

Spme bikes like my turbo don't have turbo lag. It is fairly easy to build one that has no or little turbo lag. It only consumes more petrol
And when my bike went BANG (several times) I only had to change four pistons that looked like potatoes ...

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Ninty

OK, if your really palnning or even thinking about a turbo for your bike, sorry about that last post, just seamed like we were being played I hope it works great and would really love to see some pic's on how you do it and how well it works, good luck with your bike

[James England]

if one of your nitrous solenoids f*cks up during operation .

Apparently only if the fuel solenoid stops working (nicer way to put it and saves *'s..) during operation though. They can take fuel on its own (naturally enough). The danger is nitrous oxide going through with insufficient fuel..... or so the manufacturer told me...