Need a clutch that will handle 150-200hp

[crazy steve]

Any other opinions?

Thanks.

I'll repeat what I said before; contact Barnett for their recommendations. The upgraded springs will help, but whether or not they'll withstand that amount of power under drag racing conditions remains to be seen. You might also try Rivera clutches; they specialize in HD clutches, but have been known to build some one-off bits for high-torque/hp applications.

The hard-core racers are all pretty much using 'slipper'-type clutches with clutchless transmissions these days. I wouldn't expect any of this to be cheap...

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Hp?

Well, doesen't sound like you have dialed in your HP yet I would think if you are going to spend that kind of $$, someone would be hepling you set it up 1st Hp doesen't cause clutch slip as much a torque. Tubro's "build" power and as such, need less clutch then, say nitrous and blowers. New HD springs and racing friction surface clutch parts will more the hold back a 150 to 200+ Hp motor. The New V Max and other street bikes turne out that and more with OEM clutch parts

I'm going to be building a draw through turbo system for my bike within the next couple months and I know the stock clutch won't handle it.

I don't know to much about motorcycle clutches because I am coming from the car world.

The bike will be mainly used for drag racing and quick blasts on the street.

Thanks for the help.

[ninety4point6]

I'll repeat what I said before; contact Barnett for their recommendations. The upgraded springs will help, but whether or not they'll withstand that amount of power under drag racing conditions remains to be seen. You might also try Rivera clutches; they specialize in HD clutches, but have been known to build some one-off bits for high-torque/hp applications.

The hard-core racers are all pretty much using 'slipper'-type clutches with clutchless transmissions these days. I wouldn't expect any of this to be cheap...

Ok thanks. I'm not going to be using a slipper clutch and im gonna foot shift this bike. No expensive shifters for my bike. It's a budget build.

Well, doesen't sound like you have dialed in your HP yet I would think if you are going to spend that kind of $$, someone would be hepling you set it up 1st Hp doesen't cause clutch slip as much a torque. Tubro's "build" power and as such, need less clutch then, say nitrous and blowers. New HD springs and racing friction surface clutch parts will more the hold back a 150 to 200+ Hp motor. The New V Max and other street bikes turne out that and more with OEM clutch parts

I haven't built the turbo setup yet. Still gathering parts.

I don't pay anyone money. I do all of my own work. Making a turbo system is surprisingly cheap if you know how to do everything yourself.

[Rasputin]

I have a friend of mine who has Turboed his MNS. I will email him tonight and see if he has had any clutch issues with is bike or what he has done to solve the problem. Incidentaly he is the very Yamaha mechanic who put my 79SF together when I bought it new. He knows a fair bit about the bikes and the fact that he runs a turbo will help.

[ninety4point6]

I have a friend of mine who has Turboed his MNS. I will email him tonight and see if he has had any clutch issues with is bike or what he has done to solve the problem. Incidentaly he is the very Yamaha mechanic who put my 79SF together when I bought it new. He knows a fair bit about the bikes and the fact that he runs a turbo will help.

Cool, I really appreciate it!

[Rasputin]

The answer I got was...
"I did have to put in Barnett plates as it smoked the original clutch in the first few races. Stock hub worked fine though."

[James England]

Mmm...now... at risk of sounding contentious here....... has anyone who's responded here ever actually run an XS1100 with 180+bhp.... apart from me, that is? No, really, I don't want to be provocative but has anyone? I really, honestly ran my XS1100 with almost 200bhp output with nitrous.... for over a year.... loads of nitrous refills on twin tanks etc etc. Using non-OEM 10% stiffer springs, and OEM clutch. I cleaned the steel plates, of course and put the new release bearing in. I had no problems. I used the normal footchanger.

Unlike a turbo or supercharger, nitrous is either completely off or completely on; there is no build up or lag and it just kicks in like the bike has been hit from behind with a huge wrecking ball. So, I think if anything will make a clutch slip, it's that. And mine didn't. Never. And it lasted and didn't bend con-rods, or blow up the clutch or slip.... or anything.

Before doing it, I had visions of bent/snapped conrods, holes in pistons, wrecked clutch/engine etc. The rolling road output was accurate, the bike was taken to the red line (by the installer, to my intense stress) through all the gears and a printout produced.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Springs

+1 James, I would think if his OEM clutch is in good shape these would hold back a turbo as the power "builds" rather then "intant" kick in, $26 bucks with free S/H:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BARNETT-CLUT...sories&vxp=mtr

I had nitrous oxide injection on an XS1100 and it was 190bhp on a rolling road. I found the clutch slipped when the nitrous kicked in but 10% stronger springs was all I did. I used the complete OEM clutch and just used the beefier springs. It never once slipped after that. I ran the nitrous for over a year on 'normal' road use (not racetrack) and never had any problems at all! While I was in there I replaced the release bearing too.

[Mathh]

Mmm...now... at risk of sounding contentious here....... has anyone who's responded here ever actually run an XS1100 with 180+bhp.... apart from me, that is?

Haven't responded yet, but yes I have. Oem clutch disks only work when in "as new" condition. Problems most people encounter is they start with poor clutch disks and then add power. If you have to buy new OEM clutch disks you can better go with Barnett (cheaper). Same story with the clutch springs.. Changing oil regularly also helps clutch life a lot.

[James England]

Yes, I suppose it's better to go for a better quality spring if possible, although, as I mentioned, I didn't and was none the wiser. I was always slightly concerned about the on/off nature of nitrous but I didn't encounter any problems. Looking at the conrods though, they seem to be so finely engineered and thin in the middle! I really did think they'd give up and break one day, given the 2X BHP load placed on them. Maybe if I'd done two years with nitrous it would have happened? Nowadays I'm happy to stick to OEM performance, especially after looking at that Moscow Commute video on eTube!

[Mathh]

well, in the eighties top fuel bikes like the one pictured below did an astonishing 850 hp with stock cranks, rods and bearings. So no need to worry ...
I guess this is as on/off as it gets ...

[James England]

Haven't responded yet, but yes I have. Oem clutch disks only work when in "as new" condition. Problems most people encounter is they start with poor clutch disks and then add power.

Agreed. My discs were good but slipped until the stronger springs went in

[James England]

[QUOTE=Mathh;350995]well, in the eighties top fuel bikes like the one pictured below did an astonishing 850 hp with stock cranks, rods and bearings. So no need to worry ...
I guess this is as on/off as it gets ...

I suppose Henry Ford would have gone mad... I mean a bike that will go 10X the BHP on OEM bits! Definitely overengineered, I reckon. What was it ole Henry said when he found that Model T's in scrapyards always had steering racks in useable condition? "We're making them too good". He then went on to put vastly inferior ones on!

[ninety4point6]

The answer I got was...
"I did have to put in Barnett plates as it smoked the original clutch in the first few races. Stock hub worked fine though."

Ok thanks for finding that out.

Mmm...now... at risk of sounding contentious here....... has anyone who's responded here ever actually run an XS1100 with 180+bhp.... apart from me, that is? No, really, I don't want to be provocative but has anyone? I really, honestly ran my XS1100 with almost 200bhp output with nitrous.... for over a year.... loads of nitrous refills on twin tanks etc etc. Using non-OEM 10% stiffer springs, and OEM clutch. I cleaned the steel plates, of course and put the new release bearing in. I had no problems. I used the normal footchanger.

Unlike a turbo or supercharger, nitrous is either completely off or completely on; there is no build up or lag and it just kicks in like the bike has been hit from behind with a huge wrecking ball. So, I think if anything will make a clutch slip, it's that. And mine didn't. Never. And it lasted and didn't bend con-rods, or blow up the clutch or slip.... or anything.

Before doing it, I had visions of bent/snapped conrods, holes in pistons, wrecked clutch/engine etc. The rolling road output was accurate, the bike was taken to the red line (by the installer, to my intense stress) through all the gears and a printout produced.

Sounds like I won't need much. Springs and possibly new clutches.

+1 James, I would think if his OEM clutch is in good shape these would hold back a turbo as the power "builds" rather then "intant" kick in, $26 bucks with free S/H:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BARNETT-CLUT...sories&vxp=mtr

I'm hoping with just the springs I'll be alright. That'll save me $100.

Haven't responded yet, but yes I have. Oem clutch disks only work when in "as new" condition. Problems most people encounter is they start with poor clutch disks and then add power. If you have to buy new OEM clutch disks you can better go with Barnett (cheaper). Same story with the clutch springs.. Changing oil regularly also helps clutch life a lot.

If I need new clutches, I'll definitely be going with Barnett stuff.
Thanks!

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Ninety

Hey Ninety, not starting a turbo forum, but most non pro turbo's I have worked with yeald about a 25% power increase on the good side. That would put an XS1100 at 120 HP max, so new springs should hold fine, good luck with your bike, and keep us updated with pic's