intake/exhaust valves

[natemoen]

OEM- no, I am talking about parts 4,5, & 8 on this schematic. But I have the keepers, stems and springs organized by valve as well (everything in that photo above, plus a random bucket+shim).

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1981-yamaha-xs1100sh-cylinder-head/o/m8246sch220914

Unless you are replacing the valve guides for some reason (ware is about the only reason to pull them out) #6 is not going to be accessible and not really necessary to change.

#4 and #5 are the nut and washer that go on top of the cam caps.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Seats

Thats cool. As to the valve spring seats, you do want to make sure they are all there, they are hardend steel and their main function is to protect the alum head from ware and damage. They do add slightly to spring presure but they are needed for longevity of the head

OEM- no, I am talking about parts 4,5, & 8 on this schematic. But I have the keepers, stems and springs organized by valve as well (everything in that photo above, plus a random bucket+shim).

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1981-yamaha-xs1100sh-cylinder-head/o/m8246sch220914

Pete- easier than I expected, thanks!

Don- Pure curiosity. But now, the only way out is through!

Mack/Ron- Yep, this is what I was looking for. Gnar. Wish I'd have know about glass beading before I tore it down. Now its off to the store for a caliper.

[mack]

This is the one

I did with varsol and brushes.






Cleaned it then polished it.

[natemoen]

I did with varsol and brushes.






Cleaned it then polished it.

So what would it cost me to have you do that to mine if I ship you the engine?

Amazing work!

[mack]

Just a clean and shine

or would you want me to tear it down and check it out as well. I have a 78 E motor and tranny etc with carbs and air box in line for next winter. I want to finish the LH after xmas. This summer I intend to clock a lot of miles on both the LH and SF. Not going to turn one wrench this summer.

[mayantiger]

that is really nice, mack

[awstv]

Shims stuck in buckets

I found that if you access to an airline/compressor with a fine point for cleaning dust etc. By blowing compressed air into the notch on the side if the bucket the shim will pop off easily.

Warning

Wear a glove and press down on the opposite side of the shim whilst applying air, keep a good hold of the shim and bucket, they pop quick once the air gets underneath.

No physical contact to remove shim which seems to be held in by oil, hydro locked in place

Andy

[skids]

that is really nice, mack

I agree! Wow! Let me put on my sunglasses.

[MPittma100]

Cylinder Head

Without the proper tools, I advise you to let a machine shop do this work, otherwise you may be pulling it right back off. Speaking of which, why did you pull it off? Valves/seats will likely need more than "lapping".

Machine shop can degrease and glass bead the head and reface the valves and seats. The shop will also assemble the head with the valves adjusted for you. You will need to take them the cams/caps with the head.

They may want you to supply the parts i.e. seals which you will get in an engine gasket set. This can be purchased on line.

MP

[TADracer]

If you are down this far....

Everyone has very good tips on this thread and yes, I agree that anything over a LIGHT valve lap (which can still change your shim size) should be left to an automotive type machine shop (preferably one that can handle MC head work).

But if you are already torn down this far then a nice, little-known valve upgrade is a 30 degree valve cut back. A machinist can do all 8 valves in an hour and should charge less than $10.00 per valve.

The cut back allows the gasses to start flowing at a higher velocity faster than the stock valve will because of the uneven surface just off of the valve grind that is left over from the forming process. It is a little thing and I would only recommend doing this if you already have the head apart.

Not very clear but here is a before and after picture and you can see the cut back on the left valve.

[senrak]

or would you want me to tear it down and check it out as well. I have a 78 E motor and tranny etc with carbs and air box in line for next winter. I want to finish the LH after xmas. This summer I intend to clock a lot of miles on both the LH and SF. Not going to turn one wrench this summer.

WOW Mack. That is impressive. You give us all higher levels to strive for.