Pine sol carb clean on 79xs1100fs

[old_skool]

Got this from another forum I'm on, the cleaning was on a XJ600 carb bank, but the principal is the same.
http://www.4shared.com/document/RAxx..._CLEANING.html
This might actually need to be moved to maintenance or sticky

[crazy steve]

Bump......

[old_skool]

I'm about to do the same procedure starting tomorrow with the carbs from my 79xs, I'll document and photograph for all.

[old_skool]

Pine sol carb clean on 79xs1100fs

Ok, Carbs removed, time to clean....clean my work station first

There...That’s much better

How about some before pics to go with the after pics to come



Ok, I'm going to kinda work back asswards, counting the carb bank 4-3-2-1 and remove the vacuun diaphragm side first...no reason, just because.


Having some issues with screws...but only briefly..out come Mr. Impact

covers off

if you look real hard, after I removed the covers, and remember, they are spring loaded, I pulled the Diaphragm gasket loose gently, pushed from inside to remove the slide, and noticed there's a hole, and its oriented towards me, facing the head side on every one, you can see it in the next pick

and an inside look after they are removed.

Time to remove the bowls, first the drains 10mm

gently and evenly lift past the rail that connects all the carbs(tight fit) and try not to damage your gaskets, yes you should replace them, but, they make a great emergency set, should you need to get back in there and accidently tear one.

Now what’s with #2 and #1, there GREEN


Somebody's been here beforebroke a float ear

And thanks for the side cutter's tip for float pin removal, went smooth
remove the pilot jet plug and the main jet, be careful and use a screwdriver that fits to avoid damaging the heads. Next I ground a heavy duty screw driver down to fit inside where the pilot jet resides, again its brass, tiny, and can easily be damaged, I made sure the screw driver I modified had a good blade, ground it down to fit without damaging internal threads, presoaked with Zep penetrating, and voila, no headaches, easy peasy


its cold out...chili time..hmmmmm

ok, back to work, time to disassemble the diaphragms, special ground snap ring pliers with the spring removed to remove the c-ring, be careful in here.

next, make up your cleaning solution of 3 parts pine sol and one part water, mix gently, submerge carb bank....ooops, container too small, I guess I'll have to flip it tomorrow to continue the cleaning, and use separate bowls for each carb bank components and mark them accordingly so the parts removed from the particular carb they came from get reinstalled in the same carb. Also looks like i ran out of solution, will have to do the other 2 banks when I flip the main carbs tomorrow.





Sorry, some pics could be clearer
TO BE CONTINUED……….

[crazy steve]

Shoot, those carbs are pretty clean.... Should have seen mine...

[old_skool]

After they're clean, have to see about my aluminum brazing skills to build up that float pin mount,I have aluminum rods you use with a torch, best rods I've ever found, just as solid as any weld when done, a little filing and drilling, thats the plan anyway, still don't understand what made those 2 carbs green, bad fuel? Does brass patina like copper? Wish I had used a larger container and bought more Pine Sol, guess it will teach me a little more about patience. These carbs are pretty basic aren't they? Not much too them.

[L0rdexpectati0n]

I've ruined three carburetors braking off the float ears. luckily between two sets was able to make one. does that carburetor tend to overflow? or have you noticed no difference?

[old_skool]

Only just got the bike a couple weeks ago, started, but only just. Dirty fuel, dirty tank. It's my winter project, amongst others.

I've ruined three carburetors braking off the float ears. luckily between two sets was able to make one. does that carburetor tend to overflow? or have you noticed no difference?

Using side cutters to remove the pins has never failed me in 25+ years of carb work

[81xsproject]

You should try hot water and Simple Green. They will come out looking WAY cleaner than that. Just don't leave them in it for more than, say, an hour.

[dpotter58]

I'm working on a set that came apart relativly easy except the idle mix screws. The slots in the screw heads were pretty much gone so after 4 days of soaking with deep creep i used the dremel, cut down to the screws, re-slotted them and they are still not coming out...

[old_skool]

Not sure if the deep creep made them disapear or they were already gone and it just revealed thier condition after removing the build up or corrosion, thats stuff supposed to be safe for carbs, thier parts and throtle bodies. Sounds like some drilling will be going on. What kind of carbs?

[old_skool]

You should try hot water and Simple Green. They will come out looking WAY cleaner than that. Just don't leave them in it for more than, say, an hour.

works that much better? is is good to clean all aluminum parts, or is too abrasive?

[CaptonZap]

works that much better? is is good to clean all aluminum parts, or is too abrasive?

It is not an abrasive, it is a corrosive.
It is alkaline, and that eats aluminum, and alunimum type alloys. (Zamak, Electron, some pot metals). CZ

[old_skool]

What do you use to nutralize it afterwards, just water, sounds a little too dangerous to smaller aluminum parts, what about brass parts, like jets, probably just as bad, might even change your jet size without knowing.

[crazy steve]

Simple green isn't abrasive, but is corrosive if left to dry on aluminum. Safe to use IF you're careful to thoroughly rinse the parts in hot water after. But it does do a pretty good job of cutting through dried-on residue if soaked in a heated solution.

I've personally found that soaking the bodies in Berrymans Carb cleaner helps quite a bit in loosening up stuck jets if other methods fail, but you do have to remove the throttle shafts to keep from destroying the shaft seals (as well as any other rubber parts), which can be a very difficult job in itself. It's pretty easy to strip the screws holding the butterflys, so I wouldn't recommend this to a novice.