Tank Rust

[Sol]

I just did my tank, this is what I did and what I would do different.

Here is what I did and my results. sorry no pics, my auto focus does not like it down in there.

First I rinsed it out with TSP (TriSodiumPhosphate) figuring it is a heavy detergent. It did some but could have done better. Then I added BBs. Note: everyone already knows but we want STEEL BB's. overall I had to much mass to do a good job by hand, my bad. I drained and used a magnet to get the BBs out. I then used a gallon on phosphoric acid (like $16 @ Home Depot), and topped it off with water. I tried a tip about using a straw or tubing to get the air pocket around the filler out but I could not get it to work for me. over all soak was around a day and a half. Looking at my results I would have been better off NOT diluting the acid but using less and swishing it about frequently, as I have an extreamly clean tank bottom but above the 1 gal line it was just not as effective (and the acid was undiluted for only a few min). drained, neutralised (H2O & Arm & Hammer), rinsed with H2O, rinsed with H20, rinsed with denatured alcohol. The alcohol came out with a bunch more varnish. so I repeated the alcohol. Let dry. sloshed some oil about. Results are alright but not totally great.

looking back over all:
I would talk to a rad shop
or get por15 (I hear its good stuff for DIY)
or if I was going to do this again:

Drain
rinse with alcohol a few times, with bbs on the last ones.
rinse with water then remove bbs (so you don't suck fumes)
use the phosphoric acid (enough to slosh around)
rinse with water and arm and hammer (pre disolved)
rinse with water
rinse with alcohol to get the last of the water.
oil it (if you were going to coat those products come as a kit so we would not be here)

That is how my adventure went and what I learned. I hope you have good results with whatever you choose. And one last note from me: while others may have had "Kreem" work for them, It did not do me well the time I tried it - which is why I went this way this time.

[g15usmc]

or if I was going to do this again:

Drain
rinse with alcohol a few times, with bbs on the last ones.
rinse with water then remove bbs (so you don't suck fumes)
use the phosphoric acid (enough to slosh around)
rinse with water and arm and hammer (pre disolved)
rinse with water
rinse with alcohol to get the last of the water.
oil it (if you were going to coat those products come as a kit so we would not be here)

That is how my adventure went and what I learned. I hope you have good results with whatever you choose. And one last note from me: while others may have had "Kreem" work for them, It did not do me well the time I tried it - which is why I went this way this time.

glad to hear results weren't bad and i like ur if i were to do it again synopsis, when i do mine that is what i'm going to do...

[tbishop11]

Clr

I used CLR on my tank and it worked great, and it was in really bad shape! But there is more then one way to skin a cat. Here's the link

[latexeses]

Had some major rust in the F tank and did the soda/charger method. Worked great and the soda cost about 3 bucks.

http://twinoak.altelco.net/~jacil/cl...ElecSetup.html

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ght=rusty+tank

Not to be sneezed at.

[Prothec]

I did the washing soda/charger too. It was very slow-going, but I got it pretty cleaned up in about 5 or 6 days to the point where I'd put fuel in it.

I drained my tank and let it air out while I hooked up wires to my fuel sender. I had a significant amount of loose scale rolling around and my stand filters were pretty clogged.

I took some time with a strong magnet and got the loose rust out and ended up taking off my stand tubs (no more reserve of course). I added clear in-line filters so I can see the loose rust buildup and change them instead of pulling my petcocks.

I'm thinking I should go the radiator shop route.

--------

I asked my wife why anyone would be upset about the tank in the drier and she has no idea. I guess my wife is a bit more sensible

[SLB1963]

I just did a tank that sat for 30 years. very rusty and very gummy. I used the POR 15 3 step tank restore. I am letting the tank cure now, It takes 4 days. What I really like is it looks just like new metal not a plastic coating like I have seen before with other products. I have used POR 15 products on other projects and have never been dissapointed. cost $48.00 they claim fix is permanent

[perurider]

iron out

Has anyone ever tried 'super Iron out' ?

[rpgoerlich]

Just finished cleaning the tank on the CB750F. After I finished cleaning carb parts, I took the remaining carb cleaner(3/4 of a gallon) and dumped it into the tank. Added 1 bag of fishtank gravel. Shook it on the bottom of both sides and let it sit a day. Shook it each day and rotated it 1/4 turn, then let it set a day. After a week it looked pretty clean. Drained the carb cleaner out. Then washed out all of the gravel while still shaking it. Came out real clean, Then filled it up with fuel.

[yamahansolo]

Use the battery tender/washing soda method there are several wrote ups and it wont rust after your done.


Oops.... didn't see the previous post belay my last.

[trdriver71]

has anyone that used CLR in the tank to clean up the rust do it with the petcocks still in it?

[natemoen]

has anyone that used CLR in the tank to clean up the rust do it with the petcocks still in it?

Just take them out. It is 4 bolts. It may or may not hurt them, but I could see it maybe melting the filtering mesh.

[CaptonZap]

Definitely take them out! They are made of pot metal, which has a lot of zinc in it, and CLR, if it is the real CLR, has phosphoric acid in it.
Acid and zinc, when combined, make fizz, hydrogen, and heat, leaving a gooey mess with no discernable shape behind.
CZ

[Owestfall]

I just got through using metal rescue and it worked just like they said it would I was'nt sure at first but the one thing you have to do is completly submerge whatever you are cleaning or it wont work tried my tank with just a gallon and ended up buying the five gallon and filling tank overnight and next day rust was gone you'll have to take out petcocks when empty some still left in bottom shake tank to get rest out now I'am putting rusted bolts and tools in stuff and next day rust gone, stuff worked for me

[trdriver71]

i did end up taking the petcocks out and taking them apart to clean them too, used clr with good results, but it was the enviromently friendly kind would like to see how the old formula would work like.

[3Phase]

i did end up taking the petcocks out and taking them apart to clean them too, used clr with good results, but it was the enviromently friendly kind would like to see how the old formula would work like.

Trdriver, you can clean the fuel taps with either one, just don't soak them too long or all you'll have left is plastic filters in a sludge that used to be the fuel taps.

The new formula CLR uses citric acid, the old CLR used phosphoric acid. In CLR they're both pretty diluted but the phosphoric acid mix would dissolve the taps faster than the citric acid mix.