How to remove the Yamaha badge on forks?

[fredintoon]

It looks like a press fit but I have pried and tapped with a rubber mallet and ball peen with no luck. I don't want to deform it, but need to get behind it to change the brake lines. - - -

Hi John,
now you've worked out how to remove the chrome thing, here's a thought.
Have you bought the new stainless brake lines yet?
If not, toss that pesky connector away and buy two full-length lines that run from the m/c to the calipers.
You'll never have to remove the chrome thing again and 2 long lines cost less than 3 short ones.

[jwhughes3]

too late Fred!

I actually bought the lines kit a long time ago last year - just now getting to it...

Thats a great idea though - why didn't Yamaha manufacture it that way from the beginning?


John

[DiverRay]

Thats a great idea though - why didn't Yamaha manufacture it that way from the beginning?

Because 30 years ago the stainless lines were NOT available for street use! I'll bet the pads on the special are not much worse than the new pads you are buying! The bikes seem to be easy on them, at least the specials.
I'll have to look you up next time I get down to TAMU. I usually fly in to Austin, and drive on out....

[crazy steve]

You didn't have to remove the forks..... you could have got that off by loosening the clamp bolts/removing the stem bolt on the top tree, lifting the top tree/bars/gauges up and away, at which point the headlight/ears can be slid up/off.

As to why they didn't use two long hoses instead of the three short hoses, it's because of hose flex. While stainless braided hoses don't flex as much as rubber hoses, they still flex, so the more overall hose length you have, the 'softer' your brake feel will be.

[jwhughes3]

I only figured that late

and they were already mostly out so I just finished it - now I can polish up the upper sections that were under the ear tubes.

I probably am working harder than I need to at this, but gaining valuable experience.

Ray - just give me a ring -we can find someplace to meet up. I will try and do the same this summer as I plan to head to Sacramento to visit family after the Durango Rally in July. I need to look up Cy and some others too...

Thanks
John

[cywelchjr]

and they were already mostly out so I just finished it - now I can polish up the upper sections that were under the ear tubes.

I probably am working harder than I need to at this, but gaining valuable experience.

Ray - just give me a ring -we can find someplace to meet up. I will try and do the same this summer as I plan to head to Sacramento to visit family after the Durango Rally in July. I need to look up Cy and some others too...

Thanks
John

Cool, When you get ready to head up this way PM me and we can get together for maybe a ride and maybe I can throw some meat in the smoker and make some of my famous mac and cheese to go with it.

[jwhughes3]

famous mac and cheese...

That's not the one where you cook the carbs in the pot first?

Sounds good - I will let you know.

John

[cywelchjr]

No, I boil the driveshaft in the pot first. The carbs leave the macaroni a bit gassy.

The driveshaft has just the right amount of grease for the rue for the cheese sauce.

[Bonz]

Ok, this thread was the perfect help for me! Needed to pull the splitter because the banjo bolt from the MC hose started in crooked and boogered the first thread when putting stainless lines onto another 80SG I just picked up. Literally 5 minutes to loosen the top clamp bolts, the big center bolt and center pinch bolt. Lifted the top plate off, slid up the stupid tubes and the Yamaha emblem slid up to access the splitter bolt. Pulled the splitter, refreshed the threads and 15 minutes later was back together.

Thanks guys for going before!