Xs1100 Rebuild thread!

[bikerphil]

Does the Vac Advance hook up to anything??

Yep, right here on the front of the #2 carb....

[DGXSER]

There should be a dot on both cams. so if your dots are off to the side you are probably off a tooth or so. Go through the timing process in the book and get that straightened out.

WHOAAA!!!!! Hold the phone boss!!!! When the crankshaft timing plate is on the "C" mark, the dots on the cams will NOT, I repeat NOT line up with the arrows on the cam caps!!!

When the timing mark is on the "T" mark si when the dots WILL line up with the cam cap arrows.

Do NOT try to line up the dots with the timing mark on the C!!! You will bend valves!!

Sorry Nate, not picking on you, but just wanted to be sure no valves were hurt in this thread!!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Chris,

VALVE timing is different from Ignition timing, and you do NOT use a timing light for setting the valve timing! You really need to get the manual and read thru the engine/cam section to learn how to set the valve timing. The safest way will be to remove the cams from the head, that way they are not pushing down on any valves, remove the spark plugs so you can rotate the engine easier. Then you can get the crank and cam dots to line up. Hopefully with it being a tooth off that you didn't bend any valves when you tried to start it?? If you don't pull the head, then you'll just have to get the valve timing set right, and THEN try to get a compression test and see if all the cylinders still hold compression...if 1 or more don't then you've most likely bent valves and you'll then need to take the head off to replace the valves.

T.C.

[natemoen]

WHOAAA!!!!! Hold the phone boss!!!! When the crankshaft timing plate is on the "C" mark, the dots on the cams will NOT, I repeat NOT line up with the arrows on the cam caps!!!

When the timing mark is on the "T" mark si when the dots WILL line up with the cam cap arrows.

Do NOT try to line up the dots with the timing mark on the C!!! You will bend valves!!

Sorry Nate, not picking on you, but just wanted to be sure no valves were hurt in this thread!!

Good catch! That is my bad, I wasnt reading carefully enought there! DG is correct the dots SHOULD NOT line up on the C mark but they should on the T mark!

[SLKid]

Ok good info. I have the manual on my desktop but its pictures really suck at showing what dots on the cams match up with.
Anyone have pics or advice on what the cams should look like, properly installed?
It says to line up the dots on the cams, with the arrows on the caps. In the pics and in the writing, it looks like cyl 3 exhaust cam dot needs to align with its cam cap. Which cam and arrow on the intake needs to be aligned with cyl 3s cam?
Sorry guys. I feel just like a noob again
-Chris

[natemoen]

Who was it recently that was having trouble and found his timing to be off? There was a thread about it that had good pics.

[bikerphil]

Pics start at post #24...

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ht=cams&page=2

[natemoen]

That's the one Phil thanks.

[SLKid]

Thanks yall! That post really does help. I havent been able to get back out to the unit (Looking for a new job and going to interviews. Got an interview at a motorcycle shop!) But i'm still waiting on the shims to get here.. ugh. I think they're lost!
So if anyone would like to trade shims, or if there is a shim library available I'd love to get my hands on a 255 and a 270, the only two i need. Basically the last two components i need to really get this thing UP and tuneable. (After my valve/timing check/adjustment)
Thanks guys!
-Chris

[SLKid]

View My Video

Awful quality..
But anyway. Got the Dots aligned with the valves, THANKS TOPCAT, for your assistance in another post. And after I did that I did the valve adjustment, checking the dots after each cylinder. All lined up.
Also did a compression test and on the 3-4th crank, got between 135-148 PSI on every cylinder. So... SWEET
Installed the carbs, tried 3 diff intake methods.
The U-Joint is definitely too restrictive, might MOD it later, open it up. I like the idea of 1 pod, 2 carbs.
EMGO and Plumbquick works the best so far.
Still having probs though. After the video she was still idling rather nicely so I pulled out the manometer and Synced carbs. Took some love but I got it dialed in pretty dern close. Then let her cool off a little while i took a beer break and charged the battery and popped the colortune in.
Had some probs keeping the idle steady. Wouldnt hold. And when I gave it gas she hung real high at like 2-3k for like 10 secs before dropping real low, like 500 rpms....
ORANGE alllllll the way down to 1/4 turn out. I dont understand! Definitely a head scratcher.

I KNOW i need new petcocks and I KNOW i need carb rebuild kits. Got a sticky float needle or somethin.. I can see the fuel level in the clear fuel line gradually go down when I disconnect from the gastank. Very slow.
Maybe start there to get the tuning right?
Lol i wish I could leave the seat off. I love the way the flat back looks. And maybe MOD another fender to stick a little further out. Not so curved ya know?

Thanks for listenin to the rant yall ha ha
-Chris

[SLKid]

So had an idea. I think ima just try and reset the float height while Im at the unit tomorrow. Maybe I just got em set a little too high!? Kick em down a MM or two and see if that stops the slow leak into the engine. Cant hurt right? And if the Level in the clear line keeps goin down, Bad Float Needle.
Found a great site for carb parts

http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_...a&model=XS1100

Has a good selection. Great price. Wish they had the FULL carb rebuild kit for the 1100G. Every other kit is 14 bucks!

So yeah, mess with carbs, maybe hook up some lights, possibly put on 650 handle bars to lower the riding stance a bit. Wouldnt mind gettin risers and some shorter bars. I'll see what I got in the unit. New tires are in order. Cant seem to get em to keep air. Hopefully they're not rusted on the inside.
Cant wait to ride this thing
-Chris

[natemoen]

If your leaking gas into the cylinders/airbox then you have a float needle problem and changing the float height is not the answer. You need to address the float needle issue. Also if you think your getting gas in the cylinders then the gas is in the oil and you need to get rid of the oil before you trash the bearings.

[SLKid]

When i checked float height I realized that I checked it with the gaskets on the carb body. Probably setting it too high. So, I'll check, adjust, and if it still leaks I'll replace the float needles. And yes, I do need to change the oil anyway.
-Chris

[natemoen]

Ah, but if you had the gasket on then the floats are really to LOW (measured upside down the number would be higher but really its lower, I know confusing).

So you really need to check on the float needle seats!

[SLKid]

Oh duh... Youre right.... As usual
Just ordered new needles. Hopefully be here in a day or two.
Thanks nate.
-Chris