Xs1100 Rebuild thread!

[DGXSER]

The reality is that your checking your gap against a worn shim. So the change in gap will still be relative to the replacement worn shim. I have mic'd several used shims and they all come in within .001-.003 mm. So I would have no worries about used shims.

Our pads are 29 mm in diameter.

[SLKid]

Huh. Well I guess you're right. Never thought of it like that. Couldnt really hurt to try it out I guess. And if its not right I'll just purchase new shims.
So yall just put the old pad in?
Like Cyl 2 Intake needs a 270, so I just take Cyl 1s worn Intake shim and replace?

[DGXSER]

Yes, that is how I have done it on all the engines I have worked on so far.

[natemoen]

I have no concern using old shim pads. I do check the actual thickness though. I have seen anywhere from .003 too smaller to .002 larger than indicated size. So I don't even know if the smaller ones are due to ware or just manufacturing tolerances.

[crazy steve]

I'm always really skeptical about using used Valve Shim Pads. Over time, expanding and contracting, constant contact with the cam lobe, i'm sure if you put some digital calipers on it, it wouldnt be exactly the same as a brand new one. So might as well drop a few bucks and KNOW its right.

I'm looking at
http://www.bikebandit.com/1980-yamah...61?mg=8567&t=1
And trying to determine which pads are ours. The 8.90, 7.48, or 9.48
Love Bike bandits selection. But their shipping is awful..

-Chris

Forget Bike Bandit, none of those are right; you need 29mm OD shims. You can get them here: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/ve...oductDetail.do. They don't show the XS11, so select Kawaski Z1000, as it uses the same size shims.

As far as using 'used' shims, they really don't wear, or so little as to not matter. It's not the cam/shims wearing that changes clearance, it's the valves wearing into the valve seats.

[crazy steve]

Hmmm, the link is broken... let's try this: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...FamilyId=27120

[natemoen]

there is also the shim library here.

[SLKid]

Carb plugs and Valve Shims should be in today Hopefully i can get out there and install em today or tomorrow. Cant wait to see how she performs!

Quick question. When adjusting the chain tension, (Loosen locknut, loosen tension bolt, tighten tension bolt, tighten locknut) Does the bike HAVE to be on the "C"? Or is it just REMOVING the tensioner that it has to be on the "C"
-Chris

[natemoen]

Carb plugs and Valve Shims should be in today Hopefully i can get out there and install em today or tomorrow. Cant wait to see how she performs!

Quick question. When adjusting the chain tension, (Loosen locknut, loosen tension bolt, tighten tension bolt, tighten locknut) Does the bike HAVE to be on the "C"? Or is it just REMOVING the tensioner that it has to be on the "C"
-Chris

IT HAS TO BE ON THE C MARK! Make sure you follow the procedure outlined on here. The procedure outlined makes it so that all the slack on the chain is in the front by the tensioner rather than on the back of the engine which will in turn make the chain skip a tooth or 5 and bust your valves and pistons.

After you do the tensioner just slowly turn the engine over by hand (take the plugs out, makes life easier) a few times and make sure that your timing dots on the cams line up together at the proper point.

[Tropic-al]

I believe it is VERY important that you rotate it CLOCKWISE till you hit the C mark.
If I am wrong some more knowledgeable folks will chime in.

[natemoen]

That is correct. Follow the arrow on the timing plate!

[DGXSER]

Yes it is important to have it on the C mark. It has been questioend before on the forum, and by me, why the C mark is not the same as the T mark. I paid close attention to this when I was adjustign my valves last time round.

I found that when on the T mark, there is some tension as to compression wanting to turn the engine, which could cause the slack in the chain to go the wrong direction. When you turn the engine clockwise, to the C mark, I could not feel any tension wanting to turn the crank. This will help ensure that all the slack in the chain is on the tensioner side and that the tensioner will be able to eliminate the slack.

And BTW, make sure the bike is on the centerstand when you work on the tensioner!!!

[SLKid]

STILL waiting on valve shims to come in, so while I waited i decided to mount lights, set up the newly cleaned, sync, and updated late 80s carbs. (Sticky valve needle and slightly off float level in carb 3)
I decided to remove all shims out of my donor engine. Not a single one are the ones i need Ugh....
And while I was doing that I put the donor engine on the C mark and looked at the little dot on the cog. When lined up at the C the dot is completely straight up and down, right in line with the cam covers arrow.
Now.. On MY engine, when on the C that dot is slightly off to the left of it, bout half an inch off..
So.. Guessing thats bad news..??
-Chris

[natemoen]

STILL waiting on valve shims to come in, so while I waited i decided to mount lights, set up the newly cleaned, sync, and updated late 80s carbs. (Sticky valve needle and slightly off float level in carb 3)
I decided to remove all shims out of my donor engine. Not a single one are the ones i need Ugh....
And while I was doing that I put the donor engine on the C mark and looked at the little dot on the cog. When lined up at the C the dot is completely straight up and down, right in line with the cam covers arrow.
Now.. On MY engine, when on the C that dot is slightly off to the left of it, bout half an inch off..
So.. Guessing thats bad news..??
-Chris

There should be a dot on both cams. so if your dots are off to the side you are probably off a tooth or so. Go through the timing process in the book and get that straightened out.

[SLKid]

Sounds easy enough. Saw the video on YouTube too. I have one of those Digital Timing lights. Never used this one before so this should be interesting. I think it still has the light on it. Gonna need it
Quick question. Done a lot of searching and still cant find the answer, not even in the manual. Does the Vac Advance hook up to anything?? When i got the bikes they were both disconnected, and i cant find anything on where it does does not hook up too!!
Thanks guys, I REALLY appreciate the time and answers. Some of the most helpful guys on the web
-Chris