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  • #16
    And what everyone has missed the the possible PISTON SLAP! Usually if you go slightly over on the bore, you knurl the skirts on the piston to keep the fit correct. This is old school, but it worked! You need to check the gap/fit between the piston and the bore.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
      Isn't there a problem with polishing the sides of the pistons? IIRC, pistons have a specific machined finish on them designed to hold oil for lubrication. Not enought oil, you get scuffed bores/pistons....
      hi steve,
      not that im aware of, there are oil holes in around the piston's oil ring groove,
      as well as oil holes just underneath the oil ring for oil disapation(sp).

      hi diverray,
      yep, for sure, also the top piston groove/side ring clearance on alloy pistons have a tendancy to wear, this motor has well over 140,000k's and im doing this one on the cheap, (its been less than $100) there are some things i dont wanna know. lol

      ive gota big bore kit that i want to put into my original siezed engine,
      that one ill be doing properly.

      hey nate,
      only the thickness between the top and bottom compression rings
      are different, the thick one wont fit into the smaller ring land.
      pete


      new owner of
      08 gen2 hayabusa


      former owner
      1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
      zrx carbs
      18mm float height
      145 main jets
      38 pilots
      slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
      fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

      [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

      Comment


      • #18
        honing,
        if you were to do it properly
        theres a proper tool to remove only the top ridge groove
        you could use that prior to honing which would be a better/proper
        way of doing it, but again im doing this on the cheap and dont have
        the tool.
        pete


        new owner of
        08 gen2 hayabusa


        former owner
        1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
        zrx carbs
        18mm float height
        145 main jets
        38 pilots
        slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
        fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

        [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

        Comment


        • #19
          Pardon me for asking but;

          Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
          And what everyone has missed the the possible PISTON SLAP! Usually if you go slightly over on the bore, you knurl the skirts on the piston to keep the fit correct. This is old school, but it worked! You need to check the gap/fit between the piston and the bore.
          What is knurling a piston skirt?
          Knowing this may come in handy.

          Rick
          XS1100F TKAT fork brace Stock suspension. Vetter Fairing. Pingel Petcocks. Geezer voltage regulator
          http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3026.jpg
          650SF
          http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2647.jpg
          XS1100SG Project bike
          http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3034.jpg

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Rickrod3 View Post
            What is knurling a piston skirt?
            Knowing this may come in handy.
            'Knurling' is pressing a cross-hatch pattern into the metal (just like a ratchet handle) which 'raises' the metal. Doing pistons used to be pretty common 'back in the day'; the process is still used to bring back valve guides if they're not worn too badly. The one big disadvantage is it's not a good idea in a high-rpm motor as this tends to make the piston more prone to cracking. I wonder if you can even find anybody to still do pistons?
            Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

            '78E original owner - resto project
            '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
            '82 XJ rebuild project
            '80SG restified, red SOLD
            '79F parts...
            '81H more parts...

            Other current bikes:
            '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
            '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
            '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
            Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
            Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

            Comment


            • #21
              One other question Pete. Did you use the 1st over wavy part of the oil ring or just reuse the old one?
              Nathan
              KD9ARL

              μολὼν λαβέ

              1978 XS1100E
              K&N Filter
              #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
              OEM Exhaust
              ATK Fork Brace
              LED Dash lights
              Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

              Green Monster Coils
              SS Brake Lines
              Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

              In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

              Theodore Roosevelt

              Comment


              • #22
                ask away nate,
                i reused the old oil rail, but used the new oil rings,
                i cleaned that with oven cleaner,
                letting it sit for a good 15 - 20 min then got a
                tooth brush into it, i had to do that a few times too
                there was a fair bit of carbon build up on it.
                if theres anything u want pics of let me know hey.

                these rings also dont have an up or down theyll go
                in either way, some rings have an inside champher(sp)
                and need to be fitted a particular side up.


                i measured the bores with callipers and there
                still just in spec, not the most accurate way but
                good enough to get a rough idea.

                a machine shop might knurl the piston skirts but
                if your going to that extreme ur better off getting
                new pistons and a rebore, all depends on how much
                money u want to spend.
                Last edited by petejw; 03-16-2011, 10:01 PM.
                pete


                new owner of
                08 gen2 hayabusa


                former owner
                1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
                zrx carbs
                18mm float height
                145 main jets
                38 pilots
                slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
                fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

                [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

                Comment


                • #23
                  Your saying none of the rings have an up or down side?
                  Nathan
                  KD9ARL

                  μολὼν λαβέ

                  1978 XS1100E
                  K&N Filter
                  #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                  OEM Exhaust
                  ATK Fork Brace
                  LED Dash lights
                  Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                  Green Monster Coils
                  SS Brake Lines
                  Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                  In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                  Theodore Roosevelt

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
                    'Knurling' is pressing a cross-hatch pattern into the metal (just like a ratchet handle) which 'raises' the metal. Doing pistons used to be pretty common 'back in the day'; the process is still used to bring back valve guides if they're not worn too badly. The one big disadvantage is it's not a good idea in a high-rpm motor as this tends to make the piston more prone to cracking. I wonder if you can even find anybody to still do pistons?
                    Wow! Pretty interesting the ideas and ways people got around problems.
                    Seems like many mechanical skills are being lost.
                    It seems to me that the younger techs are more versed in electronic skills.
                    Thanks for the info Steve.
                    Rick
                    XS1100F TKAT fork brace Stock suspension. Vetter Fairing. Pingel Petcocks. Geezer voltage regulator
                    http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3026.jpg
                    650SF
                    http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2647.jpg
                    XS1100SG Project bike
                    http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3034.jpg

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by natemoen View Post
                      Your saying none of the rings have an up or down side?
                      yep, thats right.
                      pete


                      new owner of
                      08 gen2 hayabusa


                      former owner
                      1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
                      zrx carbs
                      18mm float height
                      145 main jets
                      38 pilots
                      slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
                      fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

                      [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by natemoen View Post
                        I ask cause the 1st over rings are only .25mm larger correct, so shouldnt be much material to remove.
                        The diameter goes up 0.25mm yes but the rings increase in circumference by 0.25mm x 3.142 so the ends of the rings need taking back by 0.7855mm.

                        I've recently done the same job as Pete, when honing my bores I took off an absolute minimum just to take off the glazing so the rings could bed in easy.

                        I've done a couple hundred miles on the motor and its not burning oil so I'm well pleased



                        Seems like many mechanical skills are being lost.
                        Theres still some of us doing all the old dodges, when I was Toolmaking we'd have a queue of folk wanting this sort of work done, I had a line on knurling old Triumph valve guides and pressing them back into the heads, I still have a 1/4" reamer with 2 thou ground off (to account for worn valve stems) for reaming the valve guides out once fitted to make sure the guide/valve stem clearance hadn't closed up with the new interference fit in the head.
                        Tom
                        1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
                        1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
                        1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
                        1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by TomB View Post
                          The diameter goes up 0.25mm yes but the rings increase in circumference by 0.25mm x 3.142 so the ends of the rings need taking back by 0.7855mm.
                          So from 1 hair to 3 hairs

                          Yeah I need to just get to doing those rings so I can get the engine put back together....u hate rings!
                          Nathan
                          KD9ARL

                          μολὼν λαβέ

                          1978 XS1100E
                          K&N Filter
                          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                          OEM Exhaust
                          ATK Fork Brace
                          LED Dash lights
                          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                          Green Monster Coils
                          SS Brake Lines
                          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                          Theodore Roosevelt

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by natemoen View Post
                            So from 1 hair to 3 hairs
                            maybe a little more



                            Heres the pics and write up I did, hope it helps for when you do yours (ignore the date on the pics, bleedin thing resets every time I turn the camera on )


                            I ground the end gaps of the 0.25mm oversize rings to fit the standard bores today. End gap sizes should be 0.2 - 0.4mm and max wear 1.0mm, As my bores are worn I did them 0.2mm with the new ring sat in the unworn part of the bore at the top, when slid down to the worn part of the bore the gap went out to 0.3mm so nicely in tolerance


                            I used an angle grinder thin cutting disc but held in an electric drill


                            Marked a rough guide with marker pen so I knew how much I was grinding off


                            Pistons cleaned up nice after I had to chisel the old rings out
                            Tom
                            1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
                            1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
                            1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
                            1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              First time I've seen the cylinders of these bikes.
                              Looks like there's "PLENTY" of room for boring - bigger pistons?

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                The biggest bore kit I have heard of on here is the 1179 kit from Wiseco. I think some time ago Dan Hodges wrote up some stuff on how big you could go and it seems this is pretty close to the limit.
                                Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                                When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                                81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                                80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                                Previously owned
                                93 GSX600F
                                80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                                81 XS1100 Special
                                81 CB750 C
                                80 CB750 C
                                78 XS750

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