And what everyone has missed the the possible PISTON SLAP! Usually if you go slightly over on the bore, you knurl the skirts on the piston to keep the fit correct. This is old school, but it worked! You need to check the gap/fit between the piston and the bore.
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Originally posted by crazy steve View PostIsn't there a problem with polishing the sides of the pistons? IIRC, pistons have a specific machined finish on them designed to hold oil for lubrication. Not enought oil, you get scuffed bores/pistons....
not that im aware of, there are oil holes in around the piston's oil ring groove,
as well as oil holes just underneath the oil ring for oil disapation(sp).
hi diverray,
yep, for sure, also the top piston groove/side ring clearance on alloy pistons have a tendancy to wear, this motor has well over 140,000k's and im doing this one on the cheap, (its been less than $100) there are some things i dont wanna know. lol
ive gota big bore kit that i want to put into my original siezed engine,
that one ill be doing properly.
hey nate,
only the thickness between the top and bottom compression rings
are different, the thick one wont fit into the smaller ring land.pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]
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honing,
if you were to do it properly
theres a proper tool to remove only the top ridge groove
you could use that prior to honing which would be a better/proper
way of doing it, but again im doing this on the cheap and dont have
the tool.pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]
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Pardon me for asking but;
Originally posted by DiverRay View PostAnd what everyone has missed the the possible PISTON SLAP! Usually if you go slightly over on the bore, you knurl the skirts on the piston to keep the fit correct. This is old school, but it worked! You need to check the gap/fit between the piston and the bore.
Knowing this may come in handy.
RickXS1100F TKAT fork brace Stock suspension. Vetter Fairing. Pingel Petcocks. Geezer voltage regulator
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3026.jpg
650SF
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2647.jpg
XS1100SG Project bike
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3034.jpg
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Originally posted by Rickrod3 View PostWhat is knurling a piston skirt?
Knowing this may come in handy.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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One other question Pete. Did you use the 1st over wavy part of the oil ring or just reuse the old one?Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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ask away nate,
i reused the old oil rail, but used the new oil rings,
i cleaned that with oven cleaner,
letting it sit for a good 15 - 20 min then got a
tooth brush into it, i had to do that a few times too
there was a fair bit of carbon build up on it.
if theres anything u want pics of let me know hey.
these rings also dont have an up or down theyll go
in either way, some rings have an inside champher(sp)
and need to be fitted a particular side up.
i measured the bores with callipers and there
still just in spec, not the most accurate way but
good enough to get a rough idea.
a machine shop might knurl the piston skirts but
if your going to that extreme ur better off getting
new pistons and a rebore, all depends on how much
money u want to spend.Last edited by petejw; 03-16-2011, 10:01 PM.pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]
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Your saying none of the rings have an up or down side?Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally posted by crazy steve View Post'Knurling' is pressing a cross-hatch pattern into the metal (just like a ratchet handle) which 'raises' the metal. Doing pistons used to be pretty common 'back in the day'; the process is still used to bring back valve guides if they're not worn too badly. The one big disadvantage is it's not a good idea in a high-rpm motor as this tends to make the piston more prone to cracking. I wonder if you can even find anybody to still do pistons?
Seems like many mechanical skills are being lost.
It seems to me that the younger techs are more versed in electronic skills.
Thanks for the info Steve.
RickXS1100F TKAT fork brace Stock suspension. Vetter Fairing. Pingel Petcocks. Geezer voltage regulator
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3026.jpg
650SF
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2647.jpg
XS1100SG Project bike
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3034.jpg
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostYour saying none of the rings have an up or down side?pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]
Comment
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostI ask cause the 1st over rings are only .25mm larger correct, so shouldnt be much material to remove.
I've recently done the same job as Pete, when honing my bores I took off an absolute minimum just to take off the glazing so the rings could bed in easy.
I've done a couple hundred miles on the motor and its not burning oil so I'm well pleased
Seems like many mechanical skills are being lost.Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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Originally posted by TomB View PostThe diameter goes up 0.25mm yes but the rings increase in circumference by 0.25mm x 3.142 so the ends of the rings need taking back by 0.7855mm.
Yeah I need to just get to doing those rings so I can get the engine put back together....u hate rings!Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
Comment
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostSo from 1 hair to 3 hairs
Heres the pics and write up I did, hope it helps for when you do yours (ignore the date on the pics, bleedin thing resets every time I turn the camera on )
I ground the end gaps of the 0.25mm oversize rings to fit the standard bores today. End gap sizes should be 0.2 - 0.4mm and max wear 1.0mm, As my bores are worn I did them 0.2mm with the new ring sat in the unworn part of the bore at the top, when slid down to the worn part of the bore the gap went out to 0.3mm so nicely in tolerance
I used an angle grinder thin cutting disc but held in an electric drill
Marked a rough guide with marker pen so I knew how much I was grinding off
Pistons cleaned up nice after I had to chisel the old rings out
Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
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The biggest bore kit I have heard of on here is the 1179 kit from Wiseco. I think some time ago Dan Hodges wrote up some stuff on how big you could go and it seems this is pretty close to the limit.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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