Rear wheel installation

[79XS11F]

I thought I read somewhere (one of the manuals?) that the nuts should not be fully tightened at first, then the wheel/axle etc. should be mounted and then they should be fully tightened to allow everything to be aligned.

Did I dream this...?

Armin

The final drive unit to shaft nuts are not usually loosened to remove the rear wheel. They should be tightened to the manuals listed torque before the wheel is installed.
Rob

[79XS11F]

I took off the rear wheel of my 1979 Standard XS1100, checked and greased the splines and now I am not quite sure if I assembled everything in the right order

I should have taken pictures, thought that I should be able to see how things are assembled in the manual, but I want to make sure that I did it right.


This is how it looks now:
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Is this OK?

I also have a hard time getting the axle in; there are about 2 inches more to go. Should I lift the wheel and "wiggle" things in place, use a hammer...?


I was also wondering, what the best way is to torque the 4 nuts correctly that hold the final gear case. With the wheel in place there is very little room for at least two of the nuts.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Armin

The order there in the photo is correct. Make sure the splines on the other side are fully engaged and that the rear drive unit is tightened in place before mounting the wheel. You should be able to push the axle through by hand from one side to the other so long as everything is lined up. A little wiggling may be required but you really should not have to hammer it into place. Make sure the torque plate is not bent and as pointed out that it is in the proper position on the swing arm pin at its front end.
Rob

[crazy steve]

Both parts are .479" thick (assuming my Harbor Freight caliper is accurate) not including the lip. Is this beyond a reasonable tolerance?

No, it isn't; that should fit without having to force anything into place. You don't have anything 'extra' between the wheel and the caliper bracket (besides the dust shield/spacer) do you?

Maybe a good cleaning of the wheel spline mating surfaces is in order; if the wheel isn't seating all the way, this could be the problem.

[skids]

Well, on second thought, if the splines had an obstruction, it wouldn't be the cause of a gap there.

[79XS11F]

Thats true but if not engaged squarely it would cause misalignment and everything or something in that photo looks "off"
Rob

[79XS11F]

Is that photo after the axle was tightened into place? If not, that gap will likely be closed by tightening the axle into position and that would be OK so ling as that gap is even all round but in the photo it looks uneven unless its just the angle of the photo.
Rob

[QTreiber]

Is that photo after the axle was tightened into place? If not, that gap will likely be closed by tightening the axle into position and that would be OK so ling as that gap is even all round but in the photo it looks uneven unless its just the angle of the photo.
Rob

I took this picture before the axle was tightened.

I will work on the bike again this weekend and hopefully things be be aligned when I am finally done.

Thanks again for your input!

Armin

[crazy steve]

This all may be just an alignment problem.

You may have a slightly bent steel caliper bracket, along with a tweaked swingarm. With the aluminum caliper bracket/steel caliper bracket assembled and the pivot nut tightened, the steel caliper bracket should pivot into place over the spacer and fit flush/parallel to the spacer. With the wheel installed and fully seated, this assembly should then slip over the rotor and down into place without forcing, leaving a small gap between the steel bracket and the swingarm (between .010" and .050"). Assuming eveything else is right, yours appears to be bent.

If everything is aligned right, the axle should just push in or at most just need light taps.