Rear wheel installation

[QTreiber]

Maybe your torque plate is jacked on something. It should not need to be forced. Personally, I would take it easy with beating the axle too hard with a hammer.

I will take a closer look at everything. I also ordered what I hope is the correct collar from NW Vintage Cycle Parts. A few other vendors show this part as "obsolete".

Any idea how to torque the four nuts? Very little space with the wheel mounted.

Thanks again for all your help!

Armin

[natemoen]

Any idea how to torque the four nuts? Very little space with the wheel mounted.

Do it with the wheel off

[crazy steve]

Any idea how to torque the four nuts? Very little space with the wheel mounted...

I use a long extension to get the ratchet head far enough away so the socket will fit. Although I don't think that using a torque wrench is critical on these bolts; just get them tight as evenly as you can. You've got both lock washers and self-locking nuts (if the factory hardware is still in place) so the chances of it coming loose is pretty slim.

When you get the right spacer, check swingarm alignment. With the wheel off, try inserting the axle through the arm/FD. If the axle is too far to the back of the swingarm hole to slide in, try moving the right side of the swingarm towards the wheel (some healthy wacks with a rubber hammer may do it). Axle to the front, you need to spread the swingarm.

[QTreiber]

Do it with the wheel off

I thought I read somewhere (one of the manuals?) that the nuts should not be fully tightened at first, then the wheel/axle etc. should be mounted and then they should be fully tightened to allow everything to be aligned.

Did I dream this...?

Armin

[natemoen]

I thought I read somewhere (one of the manuals?) that the nuts should not be fully tightened at first, then the wheel/axle etc. should be mounted and then they should be fully tightened to allow everything to be aligned.

Did I dream this...?

Armin

I dont know I have not had to put the final drive back on yet so I have not read up on it yet. But I would agree that the thought of alignment did cross my mind as I was thinking about it.

[crazy steve]

I thought I read somewhere (one of the manuals?) that the nuts should not be fully tightened at first, then the wheel/axle etc. should be mounted and then they should be fully tightened to allow everything to be aligned...

While you would think that makes sense, there's no mention of it in my FSM. And it makes no difference anyway; I've tried that. It will allow you to get the axle in easier, but once everything is tight if it's out of alignment the axle will be bound-up and you'll have to drive it out. That's why I suggest checking alignment with the wheel removed and tweaking the swingarm until the axle lines up and goes in easily. If the axle is off up/down, you can loosen the FD bolts while the axle is in place and align it that way with less stuff in the way. I did this on my modded swingarm and I can push my axle in by hand; no hammering needed.

[QTreiber]

Now I have two identical spacers...

The parts are in the right order for a standard 17" rear wheel, but that spacer isn't an OEM piece. The stock unit is .47" thick (about 15/32) not including a 'locating lip' that fits into the caliper bracket. Too thick and it throws off the alignment of the steel caliper bracket and the caliper mount as well as causing issues with installing the axle. I'm sure this one works, but the right one would work better...

The part I ordered from N.W. Vintage Cycle Parts (90387-20637-00) is identical to the one that was on my bile, just shinier...



I will see how the axle fits with the wheel removed and go from there. I hope that the RTV sealant I applied to the final gear case allows me to make any adjustments in case the allignment is off.

Thanks again for all your help!

Greetings from the ice cold Front Range,
Armin

[crazy steve]

Well, that explains why so many have the same wrong spacer; POs have lost them and Yamaha isn't selling the right replacement... that would tend to explain the out-of-sequence part number too (why doesn't it start with 2H7?..)

As I said, the factory spacer is .470" thick (not including the 'lip' that fits into the caliper bracket); if whatever you have is thicker than that, you will have beat on your axle to get it in. If you know somebody with a small metal lathe, have it turned down to that thickness and it'll go together much easier. Or send that one back, and see if Andreas can fix you up with a used correct one...

[QTreiber]

Well, that explains why so many have the same wrong spacer; POs have lost them and Yamaha isn't selling the right replacement... that would tend to explain the out-of-sequence part number too (why doesn't it start with 2H7?..)

As I said, the factory spacer is .470" thick (not including the 'lip' that fits into the caliper bracket); if whatever you have is thicker than that, you will have beat on your axle to get it in. If you know somebody with a small metal lathe, have it turned down to that thickness and it'll go together much easier. Or send that one back, and see if Andreas can fix you up with a used correct one...

Both parts are .479" thick not including the lip. Is this beyond a reasonable tolerance?

[QTreiber]

Well, that explains why so many have the same wrong spacer; POs have lost them and Yamaha isn't selling the right replacement... that would tend to explain the out-of-sequence part number too (why doesn't it start with 2H7?..)

As I said, the factory spacer is .470" thick (not including the 'lip' that fits into the caliper bracket); if whatever you have is thicker than that, you will have beat on your axle to get it in. If you know somebody with a small metal lathe, have it turned down to that thickness and it'll go together much easier. Or send that one back, and see if Andreas can fix you up with a used correct one...

Both parts are .479" thick (assuming my Harbor Freight caliper is accurate) not including the lip. Is this beyond a reasonable tolerance?

[windjammergump]

rear end assembly..

looks like you have the outer spacer in backwards to me ...could be wrong i have the special i see marks where it looks as if it rides on the inside when you have the flat piece facing in i think it should be facing our and the small part fits inside .....but I AM NOT FOR SURE ....gump from NC

[windjammergump]

second pic

second pic after yours looks like yours but not to say it was installed incorrectly also....when it goes together correctly it will be smooth and straight

[Incubus]

Since it was all together and you took it apart, I am betting that it will all go back together again. The rear axle can be a small issue to reinstall. Just wiggle the axle to find the way through and tap it with a deadblow hammer. It'll go.

I run into the superceded part thing on my old Honda 750s all the time. A later model part meets the specs, so they use it for all earlier such parts when those run out of stock. May not look the same, but it works the same. I would send back the new spacer, not replace it with any other spacer, and put my bike back together, if it were mine. The rest of our bikes demonstrate that your axle will work with that spacer.

Patrick

[skids]

See the next post. I had a typo.

[skids]

I don't know if this has been covered already, but the splines can get some hardened grease then should be cleaned-out and regreased. The first install that I did, I was amazed how hard grease can become through neglect (PO).