Top end query;

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Thought of both options and also working on the both.

Gotta get something going soon.

Almost got the engine out............dammit it hot out there!

[psycoreefer]

keep us posted, I'm sure you'd be someones hero if you found a supply of bearings for reasonable prices

[Ivan]

As far as using the test light to create a ground path, I always found it more comfortable than a screwdriver or what not, because for some reason the human body conducts electricity better than a metal screwdriver. The human body becomes a superconductor if the bladder or colon is at capacity and just needing the slightest excuse to empty their contents. I saw someone else, yeah that's it, someone else piss themselves on one of those CDI systems on a Ford. He sure was embarassed. Glad it wasn't me.

Also, I am in the middle of working on a knock and I have the intent to figure out a suitable replacement by measurement. There has to be something close enough that a little milling or drilling could make them work. It'd be nice to find one of those old hands that knows how to re-babbit bearings. I have seen that done, once.

[dbeardslee]

I saw someone else, yeah that's it, someone else piss themselves on one of those CDI systems on a Ford.

LOL . You definitely shouldn't have told me that. Looks like it's time to buy a case of beer and a metal handled screwdriver - got some friend's coming by later .

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Your BAD Doug........"Here, hold this and tell me if there is spark when I turn it over"...........LOL.

Reminds me of.............ME!

A magneto will light up your world too. An old trick from the dirt track days.

[petejw]

the trick to not getting a shock is to earth the screw driver to the engine
first prior to touching the spark plug.

that also reminded me when we used to charge up
the old condensors, they would put out a huge shock.

how much are bearings, thought you could get a set for a cpl
of hundred dollars, i think yamaha still sell them.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Pete,

I'm not trying to pick an argument, but what you described with a spark plug in one plug cap/wire, and the screwdriver in the other matching cap grounded to the engine COMPLETEs the wasted spark circuit.

What Ivan is saying is that if you had NOT grounded the screwdriver to the engine on the matched/paired plug cap, that you would NOT have seen a spark from the spark plugged wire, because there would not have been a path for the spark to travel once it came from the coil...thru the wire to the first plug since it would not be able to continue THRU the engine THRU the screwdriver and back UP thru the other plug cap/wire back to the coil!

SO.... for anyone reading, pulling a plug cap off of one of the 2 paired caps/coils will KILL the spark for the OTHER plug wire/cap because it can't complete the wasted spark circuit, hence the need to have a WIRE connected to the plug you want to kill, and then ground that wire to the engine so the circuit is still complete, but bypasses the plug/cylinder you want to kill the spark in.

Greg, sorry to see the bearing carnage! A fellow wrote to the admin a day or so ago, he was selling his Special, and was in OKland, told him to post in the For Sale Forums. Good luck in finding a replacement engine while Ivan finds a way to get aftermarket bearings for us!

T.C.

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Update........

No TC, I'm not willing to get into it but I'm damn sure able..............LOL......





Getting ready to split the cases and see what's going on........

[petejw]

Hi TC,
Thats sweet, its all good, id never take it the wrong way,
and your right in what your saying, about the grounded screwdriver completing the circuit but in saying that
i also had removed the cap away from the engine and the bike still ran on 3 cylinders.

ok went outside again and checked it with just removing no 1 cap with out shorting it out and placed an earthed plug on the 4 lead the plug still had spark. tc try it on your bike and let me know what happens.

i know its been discussed previosly about the wasted spark, but if it was
the case the engine wouldnt run on 3 cylinders when a plug has fouled.

Hey Greg,
no messy around there, dang your quick.

[MindWebs]

irritation is the normal......

yes, i'm slow and behind schedule.

Update for my 79 special.

coils helped (xs green), first crank fire-up very impresive.

colortune:

idle = the pilot screw adjustment was correct.
mid rpms= lean
high rpms= leaner

raising needles will be my next step.

and more good news....

diaphrams now have leaks, 7 months ago they were good. now they look like sh^&.

i raised needle on carb 1 but i noticed the needle now "floats" in the slide up and down about a 1/4".

Is that normal? or did i miss a spring or something?

there is a washer then the clip above that then a plastic ring on top.
then the big plastic spring spear, and the clip to hold that down.
yes the clip is locked in it's groove.

thanks for all the help!!

Webs

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Headed to KC sunday to pick up stuff from the Bob Jones estate and try to get me going.

Wish me luck!.....I gotta get 6 parts bikes and 3 engines on a converted boat trailer..........leggos......LOL.....

[dbeardslee]

There's supposed to be a spring under the washer, with the clip above that, a little tiny plastic donut above that, a long plastic 'thing' over that, and a circlip holding it all together. You should be able to pull down on the needle, but it should go back up from spring pressure if it's properly assembled. If it's lean in the high rpm ranges, you might want to go a bit bigger on the mains. That will affect all rpm ranges.

[MindWebs]

great.....

so i lost a spring... yippy....

i'll check the floor when i get home.

ok.. i'll open up the main jet. i've seen the drill bit conversion chart here somewhere... (i'll find it.)

RTV to the Rescue, i'll find a new set of diapgrams next year.

thanks dbeardslee

I'll report back when i get more done!!

Thank you all again!!!!!!!

Keep'er between the ditches.

Webs

[dbeardslee]

When you say drill bit conversion chart, do you mean as in enlarging the hole? You might consider Mikes XS as an alternative - they sell a pair of mains for $6, so by the time you figure shipping you can get four for around $20. Reason I say this is simple - if you don't open the hole to precisely the correct size, you will have introduced an unknown variable into the whole thing. Also with jetting sometimes you have to experiment a bit to find the 'sweet spot', so having an assortment around is not a bad thing. Then there's the markings on the jets - sooner or later somewhere down the line, some FO is going to be referring to you as that d@$% PO . JAT

Here's a link to a real good page on CV carb tuning.

[MindWebs]

Yes bob, the price is right.

yup.. i'm sure your right about the FO being "upset".
but he'll have lots of issues with this machine.. not just this one.

the $10 or 20 isn't the big issue....

it's the $700 in the last 2 months that's been frowned upon by SWMBO.
another 20 isn't the best plan at the moment. to avoid further argument for the time being.

i just need to get it back on the road and next spring i'll see what i can do..

so... for now, a lick and a promise.
(i think that's how that go's)

your still right about installing the proper jetting. do it right the first time and then you won't have to worry about it.

but... so far that hasn't helped me. this bike still keeps needing more.
reminds me of...... nevermind.....

thanks dbeardslee