Different pilot jet sizes

[blade]

http://s952.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=silverxs.jpg

[blade]

Not really, for the '80 (LG) model. The '81 (LH) had a few things that were significantly different (linked brakes, swirly wheels, different calipers). Can you post a pic of the whole bike??

Thanks

[blade]

Sounds like you might have a 16" rear wheel. Here's the diagram for the back wheel on a '78 E, but it seems to me like there's something else you have to do to put a special wheel on a standard. Maybe someone who's done it will weigh in.

Thanks for the diagram

[blade]

I measured the rear wheel, it is an 18".

[dbeardslee]

You mean a 17", right? Should say on the sidewall of the tire.

[CatatonicBug]

http://s952.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=silverxs.jpg

Not too shabby! Looks like a PO did some parts swapping and/or painting, but not anything crazy.

[blade]

You mean a 17", right? Should say on the sidewall of the tire.

Yeah 17" that's what I said: I guess I didn't type it though lol

[blade]

Not too shabby! Looks like a PO did some parts swapping and/or painting, but not anything crazy.

Thanks, I am really happy with it. I picked her and a special up for $800. for both.

[blade]

Are those Jardines any good?
I have never had them before.
It looks like PO cut the crossover pipe between the mufflers and welded the holes shut.

[dbeardslee]

Are those Jardines any good?

I love mine. Excellent performance, pleasant growl, not too loud if you're putting around but you can make them holler when you hit the gas. You can still use your center stand (which you can't with all 4/1's), and you can also access the oil filter easily. The header pipes come off individually, so they're a lot easier for one person to handle alone. Can't use the spin on oil filter adapter with them, though. There had to be something .

[blade]

I love mine. Excellent performance, pleasant growl, not too loud if you're putting around but you can make them holler when you hit the gas. You can still use your center stand (which you can't with all 4/1's), and you can also access the oil filter easily. The header pipes come off individually, so they're a lot easier for one person to handle alone. Can't use the spin on oil filter adapter with them, though. There had to be something .

Yeah, I like the sound too. It seems a bit louder without being obnoxious.

[blade]

Well I am back.
I haven't been able to access the site for over a week, but with the help of topcat I am here through proxy.
I finally got my jets and installed them. While I was there I pushed out the emulsion tubes that I hadn't done on the previous clean. I am glad I did, they were all gummed up with old crusty fuel. Thanks dbeardslee for the suggestion, you were right.
I also did IVAN's v-stack mod while the carbs were out.
I put the carbs back in and took it for a ride. There was still a little hesitation at around 4 to 5k rpm but nothing like the wall I hit before.
When I got home I checked the headers and #4 was warm while the other three were hot. I pulled the plug out on #4 and hit the starter, no spark.
I put a spare plug in and got a spark, but I then noticed that the plugs were BR8es instead of 6's, maybe that was one of the reasons for the poor running at 4-5k rpm.
I bought four new plugs today which are the NGK BR6ES but I didn't get a chance to put them in yet.

Oh, I also noticed a small amount of fuel getting sucked into #4 intake manifold because of a leaky vacuum on the petcock. Possibly another reason it wasn't running quite right.

[dbeardslee]

Sounds like you're making good progress. Have you checked your pickup coil wires yet? If you haven't here's how - take a digital multimeter, pull the four wire connector at the TCI, and hold it so the 'slots' are horizontal. Put a probe in each one of the 'upper slots' and take a reading. Should be 720 ohms plus or minus 20%. Repeat on the 'lower slots'. If the numbers are within spec, replace the four wire connector, and turn the ignition on but not running (if they're not in spec, jump to the last paragraph). From the back of the large TCI connector put a probe on the red/wht, orange, grey, and wht/red (one at a time) and put the other probe on a good ground. Set your dmm to volts and take a reading. Should be 12v. Repeat on the black/wht and you should get a reading of 6v. If your voltages are significantly less (I would say less that 11.5v), get to work cleaning all connectors, and pay particular attention to the red/wht wire. Don't forget to clean the handlebar switch too - and be careful with the kill switch. When you get the switch apart, there's a screw that holds the kill switch in. Once you've removed it you'll see a little circlip on a brass post. Watch it when you remove the circlip and pull the assembly apart - there's a small ball bearing and some springs and stuff in there that can really fly if you're not careful.

And to finish the pickup coil wire test, remove the timing cover (left side of motor) and take each pickup coil wire in your fingers and pull gently. If you've got any breaks inside the wires you'll see the wire sheath stretch. Just pull gently - the sheath will slide around on the wire a bit, and if you pull too hard you can almost make a good wire look bad. While you're in there you might check your pickup coil gap too.

[blade]

thanks dbeardslee.
I have a dial multi meter. Are those accurate enough?

[dbeardslee]

Nope - analog meter isn't precise enough - gotta be a digital. They're pretty inexpensive, though. On mine, I put an alligator clamp on the end of the probe, and clip it to a 1/4" male spade connector. That way I can attach it to the connectors with good contact, and it leaves my hands free to do other things - like wiggle the pickup coil wires around while I watch the readings. If the readings start jumping around all over the place, that's another indication of bad pickup coil wires.