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  • xj1100 clutch trans update

    so i had a brain fart
    i removed the ronge screw not the drain plug lol but the one on the back upperside dint see the one becuase its behind the oil filter, and i 4-1 exuahst.

    well i fired her up in 1st gear and she ran so i backed her out and gave it a test run she ran in first then started to rattle, so hit 2nd and went a little and rattled so i hit 3 and 4 and was slugish but ran.

    so i went home pulled into the garage, onre thing i tried to ajust the cluch down at the trans and i have to screw it in about 3/4 otherwise my cable is to loose and i have no clutch?

    well i desided to remove cover again and drain all oil thats were iam at now./
    also it has a hard time shifting into any gear when not running?
    i guess the bike hasnt been fired in 10 years. so iam tring to figure out if what to do next?
    i decided at least i would remove basket and mic the springs and plates and soak them in oil. here is were i am trying to decide if its just the cluch from sitting so longe? or the 1st 2nd deal also the tab for the basket bolt has been messed with and the fact the the bike has a home made gasket for the crankcase means someone has been in there to do what i dont no?

    would you soak the parts mic the spings and disks repace with heavy duty springs then reinstall and see if it works or flip the bike and do the gear fix?

    ps:the bike is hard to push with clutch in or out

  • #2
    Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
    so i had a brain fart
    i removed the ronge screw not the drain plug lol but the one on the back upperside dint see the one becuase its behind the oil filter, and i 4-1 exuahst.
    OK, so you did find the oil pan drain plug right? Can you be a little more specific than "the one on the back upperside", as you know there are many bolts...and there are two drain plugs under there. One for the engine oil, and one for the middle drive oil. If you drained the middle drive oil you need to refill it with gear oil before you drive it anymore, it should only take 10 or 12oz and the filler cap is on top of the tranmission near your left ankle, it takes a 6mm alen hex. Your not talking about the filler cap for the engine oil are you? You would have to lay the poor girl over real far to get any oil out of that...lol Pictures are worth a thousand words, find out how to post them here.

    Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
    well i fired her up in 1st gear and she ran so i backed her out and gave it a test run she ran in first then started to rattle, so hit 2nd and went a little and rattled so i hit 3 and 4 and was slugish but ran.
    By the sounds of it, I cannot be sure you actually have the 1/2 gear problem. If you do have it it's not a little rattle, some people best describe it as a 50 caliber machine gun going off between their ankles. I suppose it wouldnt be less dramatic if you were just trying to putt along with low RPM.

    Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
    so i went home pulled into the garage, onre thing i tried to ajust the cluch down at the trans and i have to screw it in about 3/4 otherwise my cable is to loose and i have no clutch?.
    Read about the proper was to adjust the clutch here. Your cable might be old and streched causing it to have more slack than normal. If you do the adjustment right you shouldnt have to move the adjustment more and a hand full of turns out to take up the slack. Its just one of those things, is what it is.

    Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
    well i desided to remove cover again and drain all oil thats were i am at now.
    also it has a hard time shifting into any gear when not running?
    Our transmissions wont shift into gear without at least the tire rolling if its not running. On the other hand, beleive it shifts into gear fine if you pull in the clutch when its not running...trying to remember... Even if it can these are not an indication of a properly adjusted clutch. A good indication that it was done right is, with the engine running pull in the clutch in and put it into first gear, if the bike feels like it wants to roll, or its rpms drop slightly then you have too much clutch drag and you need to go in more with that screw on the clutch arm. Same applies if its hard to get back into neutral.

    Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
    i guess the bike hasnt been fired in 10 years. so iam tring to figure out if what to do next?
    i decided at least i would remove basket and mic the springs and plates and soak them in oil. here is were i am trying to decide if its just the cluch from sitting so longe? or the 1st 2nd deal also the tab for the basket bolt has been messed with and the fact the the bike has a home made gasket for the crankcase means someone has been in there to do what i dont no? would you soak the parts mic the spings and disks repace with heavy duty springs then reinstall and see if it works or flip the bike and do the gear fix?
    The gasket on the clutch cover is a good indication that someone has done some work to the clutch at one point. It wouldnt suprise me if you find weird things in there, like shims behind the springs or anything else. Previous owners have been known to make some bad decisions. In anycase, you might just want to consider replacing the friction plates and springs. Total package can cost as little as $40 for both items. The steel plates should be mic'ed and replaced if they are out of spec. You can take each one and place them on a plate of glass too see if they are warped. Otherwise I would hit them with some sand paper to clean them up and reuse them.

    Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
    ps:the bike is hard to push with clutch in or out
    You breaks are dragging, sounds like you need to do some break work. Stopping should be have priority over going. It sounds like all your problems are typical things that take time and some money to fix. Dont get too excited and cut corners because it just maked more work. You need to spend some time reading about the topics on here first because someone has already made all the mistakes for you, thus saving you some time and money. You can even find a free manual for your bike under in other members signature. Best of luck.
    '79 XS11 F
    Stock except K&N

    '79 XS11 SF
    Stock, no title.

    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

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    • #3
      xj1100 oil clutch reply

      ok the plug is on the back behinde the tranny pan it looks like it has a detent when you pull it out, no oil cam out though. i will look at it closer tomarrow.

      and the brakes work fine. i think maybe the clutch was slipping and they pulled the cover to take a look at the basket- friction plates ect.

      must have removed somthing becuase like i said basket washer tab has been bent back in place so they must have had the basket off, i have it removed now and all the clutchpack out.

      everything looks good to the eye in that department, i will mic the frictions and the springs to make sure they are in spec.

      also i think the clutch cable must be streched i have followed the link oon proper ajustment and i have 7 motorcycles and have removed clutches before and ajusted them, so when i first got on the bike it had a weak clutch like half inch of slop before i got any pressure thats why i removed the clutch cover, i loosend the 12mm nut and when counter clockwise then clockwise which pulls it out pushing it in giving more clutch but it has to be almost were the 12mm is flush with the end of the screw in order to have a good clutch, if i go to far then clutch is tight and will pull clutch cable out of keeper, so it seams like i can get clutch out of it but i have to clockwise it alot, that doesnt seam right. like cable is streched or springs are out of speck. i dont have the right amount of ajustment to push on the rod to ajust the clutch or i have enough to get clutch but shouldnt have to ajust screw so far out.

      but i can ajust it so i have clutch at the handle if i clockwise it enough so i did that and got it to start in 1st like i said but i should make myself clear it rattles very hard and sounds like its coming from clutch basket or behinde it area sounds like somthing is not engaging right. again if all mics out right should i reinstall and put fresh oil and install new clutch cable before i do 1st 2nd gear fix, when i rode it it would not stay in 1st without rattleing and i had to upshift to 2nd still rattles so 3 and 4 sound good dint get to 5,6

      would dry plates or improper clutch ajust ie bad cable cause it to be hard to get into 1,2 , also when the bike is off its hard to get into any gear? remeber it has sat for 10 years but inside and is a very clean bike only 16,000 on it. but i guess thats enough if you are hard on the tranny
      Last edited by jmcmillan40; 04-25-2010, 01:06 AM.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
        ok the plug is on the back behinde the tranny pan it looks like it has a detent when you pull it out, no oil cam out though. i will look at it closer tomarrow.
        Yep, that sounds like the middle drive drain plug. No oil is a VERY BAD Thing!!! I bet you got all kinds of rattles if you have no oil in your middle drive. Put the plug back in, pull the fill plug on the left side fo the bike just above the shifter. Pit a stick or something in and measure how far from the top of the fill hole the oil is. Should not be very far, there is a diagram on the site of how to make a measuring stick.

        Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
        and the brakes work fine. i think maybe the clutch was slipping and they pulled the cover to take a look at the basket- friction plates ect. must have removed somthing becuase like i said basket washer tab has been bent back in place so they must have had the basket off, i have it removed now and all the clutchpack out.

        everything looks good to the eye in that department, i will mic the frictions and the springs to make sure they are in spec.
        You mentioned checking the length of the springs, and thickness of the friction disc. Also check your steels for warpage. Not very common, but as long as your in there, may as well check them to see.

        Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
        also i think the clutch cable must be streched i have followed the link oon proper ajustment and i have 7 motorcycles and have removed clutches before and ajusted them, so when i first got on the bike it had a weak clutch like half inch of slop before i got any pressure thats why i removed the clutch cover, i loosend the 12mm nut and when counter clockwise then clockwise which pulls it out pushing it in giving more clutch but it has to be almost were the 12mm is flush with the end of the screw in order to have a good clutch, if i go to far then clutch is tight and will pull clutch cable out of keeper, so it seams like i can get clutch out of it but i have to clockwise it alot, that doesnt seam right. like cable is streched or springs are out of speck. i dont have the right amount of ajustment to push on the rod to ajust the clutch or i have enough to get clutch but shouldnt have to ajust screw so far out.
        I have not worked on many motrocycles, but have done the lcutch adjustment on the XS more than a couple times. I may be misreading your statement or it may just be confusing to me, but it sounds wrong. On the XS, you want to first loosen the adjuster at the clutch handle all the way, then loosen that 12mm retaining nut down under the clutch cover plate )one held on by two phillips screws), then turn the phillips head adjusting screw in until it just touches. Then loosen it 1/8-1/4 turn, hold it there and tighten the 12 mm retaining nut. Then go back to the clutch handle and adjust for 1/8" or so free play at the handle.

        Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
        would dry plates or improper clutch ajust ie bad cable cause it to be hard to get into 1,2 , also when the bike is off its hard to get into any gear? remeber it has sat for 10 years but inside and is a very clean bike only 16,000 on it. but i guess thats enough if you are hard on the tranny
        Bad clutch adjustment would make 1st hard to get into, but from there you can shift with no clutch if you want to. If the bike is not running, you do need to rotate the rear tire to get it to shift gears most of the time. Its just the method of the tranny and how the gears intermesh that the rotation is needed. Also, these trannys shift hard no matter what, again no synchronizers, and the way the gears mesh. On all of mine, you have to hit that shift lever like you mean it or you will miss the next gear and most likely be in a false neutral.
        Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

        When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

        81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
        80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


        Previously owned
        93 GSX600F
        80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
        81 XS1100 Special
        81 CB750 C
        80 CB750 C
        78 XS750

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        • #5
          and the brakes work fine. i think maybe the clutch was slipping and they pulled the cover to take a look at the basket- friction plates ect.


          You can still have 1 caliper sticking. The Right front caliper was sticking on mine making it hard to push. It works off the rear master cylinder. Put the bike on the center stand and see how hard it is to spin the front wheel.


          but i can ajust it so i have clutch at the handle if i clockwise it enough so i did that and got it to start in 1st like i said but i should make myself clear it rattles very hard and sounds like its coming from clutch basket or behinde it area sounds like somthing is not engaging right. again if all mics out right should i reinstall and put fresh oil and install new clutch cable before i do 1st 2nd gear fix, when i rode it it would not stay in 1st without rattleing and i had to upshift to 2nd still rattles so 3 and 4 sound good dint get to 5,6


          would dry plates or improper clutch ajust ie bad cable cause it to be hard to get into 1,2 , also when the bike is off its hard to get into any gear? remeber it has sat for 10 years but inside and is a very clean bike only 16,000 on it. but i guess thats enough if you are hard on the tranny

          You might as well flip the bike and do the 1/2 gear fix. My XJ had the problem at 12000 miles.
          82 XJ1100
          77 KZ1000
          84 VT700

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          • #6
            clutch

            ya thats wht i ment i screw it in clockwise so it tuches but i have to screw it in almost all the way or my cable is to loose. when you screw it in it pushes the mechanism out but the rod in so it ingages the clutch.

            i believe your right i bet the po had the shifting noise so he removed the clutch basket to see if he could fix or maybe he baught a new clutch and when it dint work he parked it.

            i think it needs to be fliped doesnt seem to hard just time consuming.

            also if the rear drive is empty that wouldnt make the 1.,2 gears hard to get into right?

            i have a xj650 and 750 and i like them but i want more top end dont like the way they wine at 65- 70 mph. there fun for around town.

            Comment


            • #7
              If you plant of flip the bike, you will want to empty the final drive and the middle drive as well as the engine of oil before you flip it. Otherwise they will drain out of the vents all over the floor.
              Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

              When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

              81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
              80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


              Previously owned
              93 GSX600F
              80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
              81 XS1100 Special
              81 CB750 C
              80 CB750 C
              78 XS750

              Comment


              • #8
                Thats what I did to mine. I drained every fluid posible. Left the drain plugs out for a week and got a few of my friends to come over and we flipped it. My wife thought we were crazy and took all kinds of pics with this project in works including it up side down. It was well worth it. I wouldn't trade it for anything. Just took alot of TLC and still doing some work. Looking for some decent front pipes.
                82 XJ1100
                77 KZ1000
                84 VT700

                Comment


                • #9
                  xj1100 someone has been inside

                  ok so i have the bike upsidedown and long with the fact that the crake case gasket is home made, i now see that the oil senser has one broken bolt.

                  and pick up cover is scuffed like they dint protect it when they flipped,

                  so i tried to get the bike into 4 th but it wont is that becuase i have the basket off?

                  anyhow how will i be able to tell if they have tried a 1,2 gear fix?
                  i have the trans cover off, and shifter cover off and basket removed so iam ready to go in.

                  tell me some things to look for?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey JMC,

                    Did you mean oil PUMP has a broken bolt?? BTW, there's a rubber O-ring that seals the pump against the crankcase, you'll want to get a new one when you put it back together.

                    You'll need to spin the rear wheel to get the tranny parts to spin to allow you to shift it into 4th.

                    You'll be able to spot whether the dogs have been GROUND on, vs. just the ends/corners getting rounded off from wear once you get the gears OUT!

                    Did you see/read the dremmel/tranny 1st/2nd gear tech tip(s)?
                    T.C.
                    T. C. Gresham
                    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                    History shows again and again,
                    How nature points out the folly of men!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      tranny fix gears are out

                      ok gears are out i am going to post pictures i got it all out no prob and no there are 2 bolts on the oil senser one is broke off.

                      so i will post pictures in a minut when i figure out how to

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
                        i will post pictures in a minut when i figure out how to
                        Tutorial.....

                        http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...sting+pictures
                        2H7 (79) owned since '89
                        3H3 owned since '06

                        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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                        • #13
                          pictures trans gears

                          here is some pics if this works it looks like the dogs on 2nd to 1st are rounded
                          and 1st has wear marks what do you think
                          Last edited by jmcmillan40; 05-05-2010, 10:05 PM. Reason: dint get pics still working on it

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                          • #14
                            trans gear pics i think








                            ok tell me what you think
                            looks like 2nd gear dogs are round on corner and 1st has ware

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yes they do, time to get out the old Dremel. If you look at the dogs on 3rd gear, that is what the 2nd gear should look like after grinding, with the back cut. Don't forget about the 2nd gear washer swap mod when reassembling. New gears with the back cut are also available for $100 a pop.
                              2H7 (79) owned since '89
                              3H3 owned since '06

                              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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