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Allballs seal still working . I replaced the other aftermarket seal with an OEM Honda fork seal . There are quite a few Hondas with the same seal . A little more expensive ($30 each) and it comes with a dust cap specific to whatever model you order it for ( I used CR80r 1996-2002) so you dont use that of course . The Honda seal is a triple lip a lot like the Allballs but it installs beautifully . This time I got to use the bike shop's tools and bay and took my time and it all went well . My mech friend helped me with the details . I'm happy to say it is working well !!!
Part number I used is 51490-GBF-831
XJ1100K
Avon rubber
MikesXS black coils
Iridium plugs w/ 1k caps
MikesXS front master
Paragon SS brake lines (unlinked)
Loud Horns (Stebel/Fiamm)
Progressive fork springs
CIBIE headlight reflector
YICS Eliminator
When I did my seals I used a drill press with a circle cutter turned upsidedown, lwered the table and just pressed em in. No banging or lopsided install's. Sorry I was late on this . Kids pool needed some maintenance.
I got to use an Arbor press on a stand and the black plastic pipe (1.5 inch I.D.) It went in very nicely over the tube with black tape up top and a healthy amount of oil on the shiny part . There is a small nick on the cap to line up the arrow on the triple for the adjustable dampening . The mech pointed it out to me and it was simple to twist the tube a bit and then tighen the bolts . No leaks yet !
XJ1100K
Avon rubber
MikesXS black coils
Iridium plugs w/ 1k caps
MikesXS front master
Paragon SS brake lines (unlinked)
Loud Horns (Stebel/Fiamm)
Progressive fork springs
CIBIE headlight reflector
YICS Eliminator
Extended ride report -
The AllBalls seal is weeping very slightly on bumpy roads and the Honda seal is perfect . Bet you know what I'll use next time !
XJ1100K
Avon rubber
MikesXS black coils
Iridium plugs w/ 1k caps
MikesXS front master
Paragon SS brake lines (unlinked)
Loud Horns (Stebel/Fiamm)
Progressive fork springs
CIBIE headlight reflector
YICS Eliminator
Allballs seal still working . I replaced the other aftermarket seal with an OEM Honda fork seal . There are quite a few Hondas with the same seal . A little more expensive ($30 each) and it comes with a dust cap specific to whatever model you order it for ( I used CR80r 1996-2002) so you dont use that of course . The Honda seal is a triple lip a lot like the Allballs but it installs beautifully . This time I got to use the bike shop's tools and bay and took my time and it all went well . My mech friend helped me with the details . I'm happy to say it is working well !!!
Part number I used is 51490-GBF-831
How did you narrow down the Honda compatible part, I would like to find one for my '81 XS11H.
Doesn't matter how........just friggin use them! Good job on the search and posting the part number Axel! BTW Newbie, OEM is available for the Standard you have, and I WOULD avise you use them.......a bit over $40bucks, but if done CORRECTLY likely last longer than your gonna have the scoot anyways. Mine wit 80+K on it are just on the second set if that' any concensuses.
81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
Doesn't matter how........just friggin use them! Good job on the search and posting the part number Axel! BTW Newbie, OEM is available for the Standard you have, and I WOULD avise you use them.......a bit over $40bucks, but if done CORRECTLY likely last longer than your gonna have the scoot anyways. Mine wit 80+K on it are just on the second set if that' any concensuses.
Who you callin' "Newbie" you just wait till I know what i'm doing I will definitely go with OEM. However if OEM was not available I would want to know how he narrowed it down since that part # is for an XJ.
Nice come-back Nubian!.......all joking aside, a word to the wise for future referece.......even tho emulators, progressive springs, etc. definitely help improve the handling in most cases, one has to remember the frame geometry was not designed to take those increased loads of extreme riding and when they get a bit "ugly" under extreme cornering loads, it WILL happen without warning! If your pucker factor can hang till out the other end of impenting diasaster, it WILL give you new meaning to "they are what they are and should be ridden accordingly"......JAT......
81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
Nice come-back Nubian!.......all joking aside, a word to the wise for future referece.......even tho emulators, progressive springs, etc. definitely help improve the handling in most cases, one has to remember the frame geometry was not designed to take those increased loads of extreme riding and when they get a bit "ugly" under extreme cornering loads, it WILL happen without warning! If your pucker factor can hang till out the other end of impenting diasaster, it WILL give you new meaning to "they are what they are and should be ridden accordingly"......JAT......
Apology accepted
On the serious side been there done that (puckered-up), which is why I went back to this type/model bike which is the first bike I ever owned back in '86. I have had my days with my beloved FRZ1000 but i'm older now and trying to calm down. Doesn't always work but i'm trying.
adding to everything that's been written here, some of it hyperbole, some of it sound, one old-school tried and true method that helps ANY seal or bearing race installation is to freeze it overnight. Take 'em out of the freezer one at a time, install quickly, while still frozen, and bob's your uncle.
In general, freeze the inner part, warm the outer part for any interference-fit application.
As for brands, etc. I've used the Parts-n'-more fork seals and recently changed to the leak-proof brand and neither set leaked. Well, the Parts-'n-more set leaked after 7 years......YMMV
Anyone else try to freeze method with success? I've got to replace mine and hadn't heard of that. I've replaced seals on Honda's before, thinking can't be much different than a 78E.
That is a tried and true method. Don knows what he's talking about.
Depending on the clearances involved many "press fit" items will just "drop in".
You can re-create the freezer on parts too big (like an axle spindle) with cans of refrigerant, of course NOW we know that is bad for the ozone and R12 costs too much so CO2 is next best.
Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready. '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine
I bought a set of aftermarket seals that had all the different applications on the back of the package . I noticed that some Hondas were on the list . I heard Honda makes a good seal so I ordered one for the listed bike . It came with a dust seal which I couldnt use but the seal has worked well . I have noticed the ALLBalls seal weeps slightly .
After all this - I think it is down to procedure and maybe not a particular seal .
Procedure - remove fork from bike . Smooth any pits on upper tube . Remove upper tube from lower tube and remove old seal . Replace upper tube . Add black tape (or plastic seal wrapper) to top of upper tube . Oil upper tube .Carefully work seal over top of tube and into place.
I used a piece of black water pipe ( 2"dia x 2' long IIRC) to set it into place but it wasnt too hard to do . Sew it up .
Did I miss anything ?
XJ1100K
Avon rubber
MikesXS black coils
Iridium plugs w/ 1k caps
MikesXS front master
Paragon SS brake lines (unlinked)
Loud Horns (Stebel/Fiamm)
Progressive fork springs
CIBIE headlight reflector
YICS Eliminator
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