New owner

[cywelchjr]

If the bags are vetter detachables, throw a strap through the handles and over the seat to make sure you don't lose one. I wouldn't doubt what the PO said about the mounts...

If you have vetter bag mounts that are not holding the bags on securely anymore, Craig Vetter has a replacement spring kit to fix that. Once they are clipped in, I have a struggle a bit to get them off, the springs work pretty good on them. But I do understand that they can go bad and then they don't hold the bags on right.

[draketrumpet]

That was embarrassing

Thanks for all your great replies. This place is awesome.

So, I was out picking up a few parts to recover from a recent center-stand-dismount-fail that resulted in breaking most of my mounting screws for my windshield when I go to push back out of a parking stall. The bike hardly budged. I push, and yank, and push some more, and it is hardly moving. It was very frustrating. Eventually, I turned it just enough to squeeze out around the car next to me and drive home. When I got home, it backed up just fine, and has since.

Has this ever happened to anyone else? Any ideas as to what causes this kind of thing and how I can prevent it or fix it when it arises?

[CatatonicBug]

Sounds like you need to clean out the spooge hole in one or both of your Master Cylinders. It is the tiny little port that allows the brakes to release once you let go of the brake lever. It gets clogged over time, and is very common for new owners, especially if the bike has sat for any length of time.

It would be a good idea to completely disassemble your entire brake system (master cylinders AND calipers) and clean out all the rubber bits and the grooves they sit in. Do it thoroughly once, and you won't have to mess with it for quite a while.

[DGXSER]

Hmmm....make sure your in Neutral? Check your clutch cable adjustment?

[draketrumpet]

Oil Change and *Sigh*

Ok, so tomorrow is my first oil change. I have 4 quarts of Mobile1 15w50 oil (I know, only put 3.5 in) and a filter with 2 gaskets (one big, one small). I've looked over the manual and maintenance page and think I'm ready. Just to make sure I take the right thing off:

In this picture, is that the filter casing so beautifully displayed in the front center of the bottom of the engine? That's what I'm going to take off, so if I'm wrong, please holler.

I got my original flasher today, and sure enough, auto off works like a charm. Sadly, a short time later, my right blinker stopped working, and my speedo and tacho lights went out and took the headlight with them. *sigh* I hope that is just some of that mess of wires I can play with tomorrow in the daylight.

[CatatonicBug]

Just be aware that Mobil1 is synthetic, and most folks avoid sing synthetic in these bikes, as it has been reported to cause clutch slippage.

[draketrumpet]

Interesting. The maintenance page says that several riders are using it with success. I'll keep an eye out for it though.

[trbig]

To answer your question, that round cup with a bolt in the center is your filter cup. You need to take that down to swap out the filter. That large O-ring isn't very cooperative around the groove on the cup, but if you smear a little grease on it, it will stay there for when you go to put it back in. The small one goes around your filter bolt.

Straight behind the filter cup you see is the oil pan. On the front left side of that pan is the oil drain plug. Just draining the pan won't drain the filter cup. Just removing the filter cup won't drain the pan..

Another thing.. right behind the back of the oil pan and recessed up right in the middle, is an 18mm drain plug for your middle drive. It would be a good idea to drain this and your final drive and put in new SYNTHETIC gear oil in these. No problems with synthetics here like in the crankcase sometimes.

*******WARNING*********

Do not drain the middle drive or the final drive until you loosen the top filler caps. On the middle drive it's a 6mm allen wrench and that thing acts like it's welded on sometimes. It'd be bad to drain the oil, only to find out you couldn't fill them back up.


Tod

[fabricgator]

I run Spectro Gold, which I believe is a synthetic. Got it at cycle shop....seems to be popular.

[draketrumpet]

Rain rain, go away

So, it looks like my work has been forestalled for a few days. I wish I had a garage, but all things in due time. So, I'll let my Monster (yay, I named it) rest peacefully under the cover.

[trbig]

Opinions are like ***holes....

... everyone has them.

I run Spectro Gold, which I believe is a synthetic. Got it at cycle shop....seems to be popular.

Everybody on here runs what THEY believe is the best choice of oil in their bike. One bike may like a certain brand/weight, and that same oil in another bike may make the top end rattle like crazy. I think the majority on here run the Castrol 20/50, but there are oil threads aplenty to read where people have stated their opinions and why.

Some are convinced "Motorcycle" oils are the way to go and worth the extra cost, and some think it's a scam. Some use synthetic, some can't. Some use different weights, some use different brands. What usually is a general consensus, is;

1. Use oil. Period. Whatever kind, whatever weight. Keep it topped off.

2. Our wet clutches need more zinc than a lot of the cleaner oils. Most of the oils used for diesel motors is a good choice for our bikes. What you need to look for is the API donut on the back like this one.





Pick an oil that DOES NOT have this "Energy Conserving" written on it. The bottom half of that donut should be blank if you want to use it in the bikes.


Now.. who wants to talk about the best tires for the bikes?


Tod

[MrOzz]

...Now.. who wants to talk about the best tires for the bikes?


Tod

O No, Not again. LOL

[DGXSER]

Best tires are easy..........the round ones that fit on the rims and inside the fenders and swing arm.

[draketrumpet]

Best tires are easy..........the round ones that fit on the rims and inside the fenders and swing arm.

LoL.

Pick an oil that DOES NOT have this "Energy Conserving" written on it. The bottom half of that donut should be blank if you want to use it in the bikes.

Well, for the record, my choice of oil this time is NOT "energy conserving" b/c as a registered republican, I must automatically forswear anything that might sound 'green'. I mean, why else would I get an old gas guzzler of a bike?

(for those of you who don't know me...well, I guess that's all of you...please know that I can be a little too sarcastic sometimes)

Oh, yeah, the headlight thing was just a fuse, so that's all fixed up. Though I almost cracked my sidecover in two putting it back on Hopefully that super glue holds the tab on.

[cywelchjr]

Now.. who wants to talk about the best tires for the bikes?

I think the rubbers ones that are hollow and filled with air work best.