New owner

[draketrumpet]

Another newbie question.

that same oil in another bike may make the top end rattle like crazy.

So I can listen for these things, when you say 'top end' are you referring to the physical top of the engine or the upper limits of the engine speed?

Thanks.

[trbig]

Top end of motor.. cams, cam chain, shim buckets.. etc. They're kind of a noisy top end motor anyway, but some oils will make it worse.


Tod

[madmax-im]

Just be aware that Mobil1 is synthetic, and most folks avoid sing synthetic in these bikes, as it has been reported to cause clutch slippage.

That needs some clarification...synthetic in itself does not cause clutch slippage...its oil that has MOLY in it that causes clutch slippage...If you see alabel on the oil container that says "Energy saving" DONT USE THAT! If it does not have that label then you can use it. No Moly oil is what you want...

[CatatonicBug]

I think the rubbers ones that are hollow and filled with air work best.

I thought the ones filled with beads were better!?

[draketrumpet]

Carb cleaner fuel additive

So, I'm not going to have time to seriously look at anything that involves a good strip down for at least a month. I was thinking about buying a bottle of the fuel additive carb cleaner with my next fill up. Is there any reason I should not do this? Does the stuff even work in a bike?

[CatatonicBug]

I was thinking about buying a bottle of the fuel additive carb cleaner with my next fill up. Is there any reason I should not do this? Does the stuff even work in a bike?

Seafoam is decent (don't waste your money on any other brand), but really, until you actually take the carbs apart and chip the gunk out, that type of cleaner can't do much. Think of those cleaners as like using mouthwash on your teeth. Unless you actually get a toothbrush in there (or a dentist's tools), you're only touching the surface.

[cywelchjr]

Seafoam is decent (don't waste your money on any other brand), but really, until you actually take the carbs apart and chip the gunk out, that type of cleaner can't do much. Think of those cleaners as like using mouthwash on your teeth. Unless you actually get a toothbrush in there (or a dentist's tools), you're only touching the surface.

I would have to disagree on this. If the bike is pretty much running ok, but is not right on, the seafoam can clear things up. It can (as can any carb cleaner) make things worse as well if stuff further up the chain comes loose and clogs a smaller port. But, as long as anything can get through, seafoam has a reasonable chance of cleaning some of the stuff out of there, and might even get almost all of it.

[draketrumpet]

Successful change

I really need a garage. That was cold. Though now I can time my changes with anticipated warmer weather.

The larger gasket was actually too big for the slot in the filter cap. Luckily the old one seemed to be in good condition, but I'll have to watch that.

I don't know what the PO had in there, but the engine seems to run quieter/smoother with the 15w-50.

Thanks for all the suggestions, tips etc.

Now the next two projects I want to undertake are the timing and the petcocks. But for those I will wait until it is warmer. Are there any little things that you all suggest I should look at in the meantime? Keep in mind this bike has only been ridden about 40 miles in the last year before I got her. The PO said he picked it up from someone who didn't ride it any more and cleaned carbs and tank before selling it to me.

[trbig]

LOL.. The big O-ring wasn't too big.. As I told you, you just have to get it to stay there by smearing some grease around it. I re-use them many times usually, so no worries. Just save that O-ring though since many filters don't come with them.


Tod

[draketrumpet]

LOL.. The big O-ring wasn't too big.. As I told you, you just have to get it to stay there by smearing some grease around it. I re-use them many times usually, so no worries. Just save that O-ring though since many filters don't come with them.


Tod

*Sigh* So many things to keep track of and I left my notes at home. My head is too small, I should look into some of those memory expanders that go around the hips I hear some people talk about

[draketrumpet]

Air Filter question

What is the purpose of these:


As opposed to a normal air filter:


I'm not sure, but can you take the rubber boots off of the back end of the carbs and put the top ones on? Has anyone done this, and if so, do you have pics? Does the increased chance of seeing inclement weather my bike is exposed to mean I should not put the clip on ones on?

[DGXSER]

The top ones are referred to as "POD" filters. Do a search for POD or PODS and I am certain you will get 1,000 or more hits. Ivan did a write up once on using the factory inlet tubes form an air box to make intake boots for POD filters. He referenced it pretty recently to.

Opinions will vary but here is mine, POD filters will not add enough to the HP of the bike for you to feel it. POD filters make it really easy to access the carbs compared with pulling the air box back and wiggling the carbs out of the hole they are in. That is the most quoted reason for folks going over to POD filters. Me, I still run the factory air box.

[draketrumpet]

Ahaaa....

I had been wondering what "pods" were, but was just going to ask later when I got further along in tuning things up. Thanks.

[trbig]

I've got the pod filters on mine and ride it in the rain all the time with no problems. You'll need to completely remove the air box and those back rubber boots. There are good pods out there and bad ones. As stated, do a search.

That being said, the stock air box is designed for these motors and you will make more HP with it than you will with the pods. It directs the airflow straight into the carbs versus the pods grabbing the air from wherever. But yes, they are easier for carb removal.


Tod

[draketrumpet]

Another newbie question: Fuel tank, petcocks, fuel lines and filters

Ok, so when I changed my oil and started the bike up to circulate the new oil and after a minute, bike sputters and dies. I figure it was the fuel since I was getting low. Finished packing up, flipped the petcocks to reserve, and she started right up and drove me to the gas station.

Today, I realize I'm about to need to fuel up again. I figured I'd go for a 15 mile ride on the bike since it was almost 70 degrees and would be a shame not to and fill up on my way back into town. So, I get as far out as I'm going, and everything is as well as ever. Hop off, walk around a few minutes, hop on, start bike, take off down the highway and then bam, I feel like I'm running on half an engine. I pull over and switch the petcocks to reserve and take off again (without turning bike off or anything else), but no change. It's a few more miles in to the station and I limp along, and died in the parking lot once and eventually coax her in next to the pump. Fill up with fuel, pay for fuel, rehelmet, switch petcocks back to 'on', decided I'd pull the choke just in case, and push the starter. Sputters for a second, then fires up to the 3-4k rpm I expect with a hot choke. Ride home behind a couple HD's that completely ignored my existence (guess my Monster wasn't pretty enough for 'em )

So, my thoughts are these, and I'm hoping you all can either confirm or better instruct (and then I'll feel even more stupid when they tell me in the MSF course in a week, but that's life):

• If I think I'm going to need to switch into reserve before I get to where I'm going (usually the gas station, I presume), should I just flip it there before I get any signs of running out of fuel?

• If I am out and about and run out before switching, do I need to turn the bike off and restart it to help get the fuel coming back through the line?

• I'm guessing that's why it didn't go back to normal when I just flipped the petcock to reserve, as it probably didn't have as much suction as when it is starting

• Would just pulling the choke out while it is already running pull enough fuel down to get the other half firing again?

TIA

So happy warmer weather is here