As most of you know, proper lubrication of the driveshaft splines requires disassembly and direct application of a high molybdenum disulfide grease directly to the splines every 10k miles. In my research I found that Honda adamantly recommends a minimum moly content of 60% for lubricating Goldwing splines. Even though these aren't Hondas, I used that as my target content, figuring that the more moly the better. I found the bel-ray stuff difficult to locate, but what I did find was Loctite Moly Paste. It's 65% molybdenum disulfide, and is available in an 8 oz. jar that includes an applicator brush attached to the lid. I thought that was a nice touch, as moly is some sticky stuff and adheres to flesh about as well as it adheres to metal. It's pretty expensive - about $20 plus shipping for 8 oz.'s - but that is essentially a lifetime supply for an XS. Anyway, I just thought I would pass it along.
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Spline lube
I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake linesTags: None
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Originally posted by dbeardslee View PostAs most of you know, proper lubrication of the driveshaft splines requires disassembly and direct application of a high molybdenum disulfide grease directly to the splines every 10k miles. In my research I found that Honda adamantly recommends a minimum moly content of 60% for lubricating Goldwing splines. Even though these aren't Hondas, I used that as my target content, figuring that the more moly the better. I found the bel-ray stuff difficult to locate, but what I did find was Loctite Moly Paste. It's 65% molybdenum disulfide, and is available in an 8 oz. jar that includes an applicator brush attached to the lid. I thought that was a nice touch, as moly is some sticky stuff and adheres to flesh about as well as it adheres to metal. It's pretty expensive - about $20 plus shipping for 8 oz.'s - but that is essentially a lifetime supply for an XS. Anyway, I just thought I would pass it along.
1980 XS650G Special-Two
1993 Honda ST1100
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+1 using the Honda Moly60 lube on the splines..81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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I ordered it from waresdirect - $19.66 plus $9.99 shipping.I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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We use a moly paste to grease the splines on outdrives on boats .There is very commonly 400+ horsepower put through this spline coupling.I'm going to check first of the week and get moly content .It is some good stuff ,and is what I'll be putting in the splines on my 1100.Just saying
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I was cruising a scrap yard a couple years back and found 3 1lb cans of military molybdenum disulfide grease. Got them all for a buck. The grease has dried a bit but that shouldn't affect the moly. I found out that you should be very careful using it. If not it will be in your ears, on your forehead and nose in no time flat. Personal experience.
Anyone have any idea what the % moly might be in there?
G-353
GMD
GREASE
MIL-G-21164B (ASG) AM 1
9150-754-2595
ELECTROFILM INC. 2530
MAY 66 BATCH
DSA 600-12024
AML 78267-64
Any place I could find out?RIP Whiskers (Shop Boss) 25+yrs
"It doesn't hurt until you find out no one is looking"
Everything on hold...
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Originally posted by latexeses View PostI was cruising a scrap yard a couple years back and found 3 1lb cans of military molybdenum disulfide grease. Got them all for a buck. The grease has dried a bit but that shouldn't affect the moly. I found out that you should be very careful using it. If not it will be in your ears, on your forehead and nose in no time flat. Personal experience.
Anyone have any idea what the % moly might be in there?
G-353
GMD
GREASE
MIL-G-21164B (ASG) AM 1
9150-754-2595
ELECTROFILM INC. 2530
MAY 66 BATCH
DSA 600-12024
AML 78267-64
Any place I could find out?
Phil1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
1983 XJ 650 Maxim
2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)
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MaximPhil,
I have found mention of that number but without the "B" suffiix. Think it is a "G" now. Nothing I have found yet gives me a hint. I suspect that the % would be up there. I imagine it would have been used on anything from small arms to field artillery.
Anyone out there working for GSA?RIP Whiskers (Shop Boss) 25+yrs
"It doesn't hurt until you find out no one is looking"
Everything on hold...
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I couldn't find the 'b' suffix either, but I did find the 'd'. The 'd' suffix showed a Nato equivalent number of G-353, which got me to Shell Grease 33 MS, which meets that spec. That appears to have a moly content between 3 and 8.99%. Here's a link to the page with the info. If you click on the msds sheet it will give you the info for the Shell 33. It shows it as meeting MIL-G-21164 on the first page, but when you look at the msds it shows a different mil spec number. I found another page with the info on MIL-G-21164D - spec sheet - click on the funny looking green arrow and it will open a pdf. Unfortunately the spec sheet defines performance - not content. Also, according to the info I could glean, the last character in the mil spec number is a revision code, so unless we knew what the revision was for, the information is all somewhat suspect. Best I could do. If it did turn out to be high moly content that would be a real steal - 3 pounds would be like $300-400 worth of moly paste. Then again, if it's just moly fortified grease as the tech sheets suggest, you're probably better off not using it in critical locations as it sounds like it's dried out. 3% moly grease doesn't cost much more than regular grease.I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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Yea, it probably wouldn't be the best grease for the splines. According to MSDS it wouldn't be too good for injecting under the skin at high preasure.
I have used it on some "rubbing metal surfaces" as the application suggests and it hangs on like a leach.
I think the letter suffix must just be something like a "batch" designation or something like that. I could only hope it is a "concentration" designation.
MaximPhil, dbeardslee,
Thanks for the help. I might find an old tank mechanic or someone who still has that stuff under his (or her) fingernails.
Maybe I could get my hands on a gallon of the grease used to grease the tracks on the crawler they use to move the Space Shuttle! Or I might already have 3 cans Thanks again.RIP Whiskers (Shop Boss) 25+yrs
"It doesn't hurt until you find out no one is looking"
Everything on hold...
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XS1100F TKAT fork brace Stock suspension. Vetter Fairing. Pingel Petcocks. Geezer voltage regulator
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3026.jpg
650SF
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2647.jpg
XS1100SG Project bike
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3034.jpg
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Runnin' and Gunnin'
Originally posted by Rickrod3 View Post
You're not thinking that you can just grease the Zirk fitting and be good to go, are you??
The design of the rear shaft/splines and the placement of that zirk fitting results in a situation where you can gun it with grease all ya want but still leave the right areas unlubricated.
Disassembly and lube is strongly advised.
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You're not thinking that you can just grease the Zirk fitting and be good to go, are you??
I'm pulling brakes, wheel to lube the bearings going to pull the final drive to lube them as well. I asked a couple of local suppliers for the loctite moly paste but, they cannot get it. One of them offered me the CRC one its also alot cheaper.
RickXS1100F TKAT fork brace Stock suspension. Vetter Fairing. Pingel Petcocks. Geezer voltage regulator
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3026.jpg
650SF
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2647.jpg
XS1100SG Project bike
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3034.jpg
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I've got a ton of miles on them so far with plain old wheel bearing grease...
It's kinda like the motor oil threads of which oil is best. Just change the stuff occasionally (or in this case, re-apply) and you'll be fine..... whatever brand.
Just my 2 cents.
TodTry your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
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The thing about molybdenum is that it bonds with metal, so even after the grease component has dried out it still provides lubrication. Maybe it's overkill, but I like the high moly content for the splines 'cause they don't see daylight very often. I figure a good quality lube is relatively cheap compared to breakdowns.I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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