New project: XS1100 endurance racer

[roccet]

endurance racer

Do you have that solid model available ??? what format ??
what do i have to do to get it.. ?

[exquized1]

Mathh

Can you post some more pics of your lift table and how you went about making it. I'm sure there is a few of us that would be interested in making one. Any tips or tricks would help us with no imaginary skills. LOL a detailed plan and material list would help me out much more but I know thats asking way too much. Your skills just floor me everything you build is amazing.

[Mathh]

Thanks for the compliments guys. The log and the hammer are genuine old skool oak and came with the workshop And that bike lift deck....... well I watch Discovery a lot (really BIG machines...).
@ xschop : a video? It's not that long ago that I finally got comfortable with posting pics on the net..... video is hightech! But I will give it a try, that's a promise.

[xschop]

Inspiration

MacGyver is my mentor...but....
MathH your work is an inspiration to us "Yanks"

I hope you can get a video out after she's up and running...

[mro]

Hey Ken,
did you notice the battle ship thick deck plate he used for the bike lift top. A true XSive

mro

[Ken Talbot]

Amazing! All that fancy fitting and welding for a custom frame, home built English wheel, custom workbench, amazingly well organized shop, etc, etc. And then, there's that $hitt!y old piece of firewood propping it up and a hacked-off sledge hammer! And look at that beautiful buffing wheel set-up!!! I am thoroughly amazed, humbled, and amused, all at once.

[Mathh]

Well, I have been fairly busy lately so no real leaps forward in the build.
Some small things like the forkbrace/fender mount, but nothing impressive..
The almost flat mounted R1 shock did not perform well, so I have been looking for a substitute. The only shock that's a bit suitable is a TL1000R replacement shock that gets rid of the stock horror on this bike. In France I scored this Fournales gas shock of 240mm. I think it looks great on the bike. I just need to modify the mounting points but that should not be a problem...



I made some front wheels spacers from a piece of aluminum that I had lying around..





I had to make another workbench because of lack of working space.





And for the monocoque I made an English wheel from scrap steel beams and bought 2 m2 alu sheet form 2 mm thick. Must remember to put a bucket filled with ice to the side when I start using it. That's first aid for the flattend fingers

[daveyg]

Imagine the braking power they give. The closer to the edge of the tire the calipers are the better braking power they give. You could probably do stoppies with those rotors, if the forks would hold the weight of the bike.

Bad idea. I would do it.
But I'm sure the SWMBO wouldn't like it.

[cywelchjr]

Imagine the braking power they give. The closer to the edge of the tire the calipers are the better braking power they give. You could probably do stoppies with those rotors, if the forks would hold the weight of the bike.

[81xsproject]

DAMN! Those things are HUGE! If I ever do a front end swap, I will keep those in mind. With those on, I could have a non XS11 front wheel and no one would ever know it didn't match because they could never see it behind those rotors! They look awesome, by the way.

[Mathh]

well, I got a complaint on the UK forum about my machined upper clamp being no longer safe...



So for sake of safety I called in some experts help.. here's the result:

As seen below... the forks with the machined upper clamp.... max stress is in the outer rear side of the smaller openings: 297N/mm2. A good piece of alu can handle 240 N/mm2 pulling force. Damn!


Thanks guys
So... I'm off looking for another upper clamp or.... weld the smaller holes shut again..
Here's how it looks with only the two big slots on the front. Stress peak moves back into the fork legs. Max stress in the upper clamp does not exceed 110N/mm2.



Tiny small update... I swapped the more modern gold coloured Brembo calipers and brake discs for these older ones. Not period but almost.. :tongue: These were once standard fitment on Ducati 851 superbike ('87-'92). I blasted the gold inner of the discs with aluminum oxide. That gives a very nice, almost painted like finish. Then I have to make up some brackets (easy this one)..

[Mathh]

Any interest in selling the tube prints? BTW, what carbs are you using on this engine and, why didnt you go with some more modern forks? Looking nice, keep it up.

No tube prints, sorry. All ideas were put in a chassis design program that was based on a different engine (see pics in earlier postings) just to visualise things. By looking at the drawing the tubes were bent and added (and changed if not nice or good) then spotwelded and welded later. Only minor measurements were made for basic things. Carbs are from a 93 GSXR750 (36mm). It will be a classic racer replica (with some updates on brakes and wheels, but not visually disturbing). Modern forks have way to big fork diameters, like 45 -50mm, definitely not classic looking. Upside downs are therefore a no-no as well.
Classic racing rules define forks max diameter to be 37mm. Mine are 39mm, and looking at the wheels and brakes.... I cannot join official racing. But i can participate with free riding during these days.
I think I will change back to 18 inch 5-spoke campagnolo's as soon as I have a set complete.

[WMarshy]

Any interest in selling the tube prints? BTW, what carbs are you using on this engine and, why didnt you go with some more modern forks? Looking nice, keep it up.

[Mathh]

How come no FEA of the front half of the frame? I would like to see how stiff it is!

No, I know it's a shame. But solidworks needs a lot of data to make these calculations and mr.Q is already designing another frame (Suzuki TR750 replica). But don't worry, tube wall thickness and diameter is way more than in those days, that combined with superior steel and welds, this thing is absolutely overkill

I had the special in front of the racer and the differences are very obvious.... The racer has its engine sitting 1.5 inch higher from the floor than the stock bike. And the headstock has been lowered 4 inches from stock height.....

Check lower triple tree clamp vs valve cover on the special and the ones from the racer:





This week I fabricated some small things like the rear brake bracket (rear brake caliper is 4-piston MV Nissin):







And I machined 2 extra slots in the upper triple clamp... The smaller ones..




I shortened the chain and put the rear wheel in line, just have to measure how much the rear wheel has to move to the right now (to get both wheels in line) and make up a spacer that comes between the wheel and the cush drive..
Here 2 more pics with both feet on the ground, without any tank or seat it is still incredibly low...

[Mathh]

Those look nice, they control the compression damping, correct? How do you adjust them? Is the rebound damping adjustable on those forks? Sorry, a lot of questions, thinking of a set of those for my FJ forks that are on my 11.

They can be adjusted by screwing them in 2-7 turns, change the springs with stiffer ones or use thicker oil. So to do adjustments you have to take the forks apart again. That is the only downside. The forks themselves are non-adjustable except for spring pre-load.