Okay, that was one excellent update. Well done!
Regards,
Scott
New project: XS1100 endurance racer
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Those look nice, they control the compression damping, correct? How do you adjust them? Is the rebound damping adjustable on those forks? Sorry, a lot of questions, thinking of a set of those for my FJ forks that are on my 11.Leave a comment:
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All I have to say is, WOW. Totally epic. Keep up the great work.
How come no FEA of the front half of the frame? I would like to see how stiff it is! Any chance you would sell a set of tube prints to for the frame and swing arm?Leave a comment:
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Here's an update on the front forks. As you maybe know I chose the forks from an early Yamaha FZR1000 with 41mm stanchions because of the period look. These forks are reasonably well except for the fact that they use damping rods instead of cartridges. So it's about time to take them to a somewhat higher level. I took them to a friend of mine who has a Bitubo dealership. He also has a nice weblog filled with nice pics ranging from modern racers to classic racers and cafe racers:
BLOG (when you get to the bottom of the page just click "oudere projecten" and you will get to the next page..)
After disassembly of the forks I blasted and painted the outer forks, just to prevent them from getting oil stained. definitive painting will follow later.
As usual with these forks you don't know what to expect when you take them apart but these forks were the same as all the others as the internals were really dirty.
After a thorough cleaning the forks got inspected and serviced, got new seals, Motul "factory line" 10W oil and on top of that they got a YSS suspension valves treatment in order to get more damping in the forks.
Because of these valves a bit more work is involved: drilling some extra holes in the standard damping rods. That was not a problem, the big question mark was how much and how big....
After some thinking he decided to drill 3 extra 7mm holes.
Then the forks were assembled again and although a bit sceptical the end result was surprisingly good! More than enough damping without being "slow" anywhere.
In this pic you also see some Honda VFR1000 forks from another classic racer, very complex these. The owner wants to keep the anti-dive system intact, my fried wants to block it off and "throw the rest in the woods" hahahaha
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Just about every automotive alternator I've seen spec sheets on will charge at 400 to 600 RPM. They are also balanced to 14,000 RPM, at a minimum, if they use them on "small" for US engines. because you don't need too much amperes too keep everything charged, a physically small alternator should have plenty of output, and the mass is small so there will be no problems spinning it at close to 20K RPM.
I WILL check with an expert later today, but I am almost positive I'm correct on this. I do know I've just had a crank for my XS1100 balanced to 14K RPM, so I don't see why the alternator, that has it's mass rotating, and NOT reciprocating, can't hit over 20K new. A ten year old, used alternator I may be worried about. Some of the material used to build it may be starting to fracture from stress.Leave a comment:
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@Diverray: I have made some calculations regarding the alternator/dynamo.
Rear Wheel Circumference = 202 cm = 2.02 meter > 1 rear whel rpH = 2.02 meter/hour > 1000 rpH = 2.02 kmh> 202 kmh = 100.000 rpH > 202 kmh = 1666.67 rpm > 1 rpm = 0.1212 kmh > 1kmh = 8.251 rpm
Sprockets 13:41 = 3.154
Now i tried really hard but I cannot post a spreadsheet in a topic so you have to take my word for it
At 235kmh my front sprocket will make 6116rpm (a lot less than I thought it would make). That means that at 50kmh it will make 1300rpm. Because a gsxr alternator/dynamo can safely make 11000 rpm I wil be able to alter the ratio so it will make 2400 rpm at 50kmh. However the ratio required is 1.8:1.
And i have no room for that because of the tiny front sprocket. Also the gsxr spec sheet shoes that the alternator starts to charge between 3500 and 5000 rpm (speed calculated between 75kmh and 105kmh, way too late). What i found on the internet is that most alternators start charging at these rpm apart from the race oriented chargers with high to very high output. These will already charge at idle. But I only need a small tiny alternator, now preferably with a 1:1 pully ratio, 1.3:1 max), maxing max 45 Amps. So I come back to the one I showed advertised on Ebay. But I need to make sure it will already charge at 1000 rpm. You mentioned alternators charging at 400 rpm. Which ones are these?Leave a comment:
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When I worked as a technician at a local Yamaha stealership, I noticed almost all 4 cylinder bikes I worked on (From the R6 and R1, to CBRs, to GSX-R) almost all used a 1,2 and 3,4 tri-Y system, and all of which, from my research, were 180 degree engines with a similar firing order, if not just flipped, to our beloved XS11s (With the exception being the latest generation of R1 that uses a 90 degree crank) So if those wonderful Japanese engineers think it works so well... Maybe it does...Leave a comment:
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Mathh,
I've been following you're build here and have been watching the exhaust system build in particular
I don't want to highjack your thread, so if you get a chance and would like to comment, go here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...086#post255086Leave a comment:
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Hey Mathh, with the exhaust fitted to the bike,
i took a tape measure from the top of the header pipe
down (outside) hope that makes sense.
header pipes are 38.5mm
secondary pipe 43.3mm
final pipe 51mm
these measurements were done with vernier callipers.Leave a comment:
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Thanks Pete, did you measure the pipes from the inside (radius) or the outside? And what is the diameter of the primary, secondary and final pipe?
I will be building a single muffler system exciting on the right...Leave a comment:
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Hey Mathh,
The exhaust is a Tranzac system, i believe they are
situated in Queensland in aus.
The system is currently on the bike and the measurements
are a little rough,
the headers are equal length at 63cm, 3cm are fitted into the Y collector,
from this Y collector to the end Y connector (secondary pipes) is 52cm from cylinders 1 & 2,
and 47cm from cylinders 3 & 4.
then theres a chrome extension fitted prior to the muffler.
sometime down the track id like to cut the end Y pipe and fit a X pipe
and fit 2 mufflers.
Mathh, u going to use a single or dual muffler system?Last edited by petejw; 01-30-2010, 03:31 AM.Leave a comment:
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hi pete, looks good. Is it possible to give me some section length measurements? What brand is this?Leave a comment:
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Im currently running a 4-2-1, (cylinders 1 & 2 are paired as are cylinders 3 & 4) there is a noticable difference with mid range power
compared to a 4 -1, but will lose a cpl of hp at the top end.
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