New project: XS1100 endurance racer

[Mashermoto]

Mathh,

You are a truley gifted builder

That header looks pretty good. Is RC Engineering still around and producing XS1100 exhausts. Over here MAC is the only supplier and not that well liked. Marshall Deeptones are known about overseas, but I've been waiting since April on one. Looks like your RC system allows oil changes without removing the header. Does it?

Hope you keep the post going. Maybe when you get done you can tell us a bit more about yourself and these guys helping you out. This certainly isn't a shade tree mechanic build going on here. Something tells me there is a good story to be told about you.

[Mathh]

Mathh,
That header looks pretty good. Is RC Engineering still around and producing XS1100 exhausts. Looks like your RC system allows oil changes without removing the header. Does it?

Hi Mashermoto, the exhaust is still brand new. I bought it on Ebay. It allows oil changes but no centerstand. RC is still around but have changed their business completely long time and only do fuel injectors nowadays.

And for the racer.....
I just found a matching magnesium Dymag front wheel in France. It is on its way now. It is originally for a Ducati so lots of different front discs will fit. Next week i will visit someone who presumably has the correct cushdrive for the rear wheel, if not I have to make one myself. Tomorrow i will take out the forks and take them to a Bitubo specialist to update it a little..



I started with the right rear motor mount, which comes instead of the stock breather cover:











Still have to weld those and make a hole for the breather tube, but I will do that later..

I took out the swingarm and took out the (too) small 8mm bearings. I will replace them with two times two 10mm wide bearings with a small spacer between the two to distribute the forces. Also I have to fabricate a spacer to put between the left and right side bearings to prevent them from getting destroyed when the forward swingarm axle is tightened. The swingarm is now being altered in order to fit the new bearings..



I hope I get the swingarm back in the same week as the forks. In that case i can start aligning wheels and sprockets front and rear.
I also bought a new stainless Supertrapp collector in Switzerland to cut up and reweld in order to fit between the frame rails. Already looks trick and lightweight (2,8 kilos), almost a shame to cut it up heheheh:





Wall thickness of the downtubes is 0.8mm. That will be fun when welding ....

[TomRodgers]

Looks great....

Awesome plan of ditching the stock breather cover for the new motor mount... (putting that in my memory banks)

[Mashermoto]

Mathh...you're killing me man

Over here, finding an exhaust system for a XS11 is like finding gold buried in your back yard...you guys have such an abundance you can use them to plumb your house

You're killing me man

But still real impressed with the build

[trbig]

SO if you weld that cover to the frame where you had it clamped with the vice grips... if you ever have any engine problems, how will you be able to pull the motor without cutting that? Does it just drop straight down?

You're asking a lot from those 4 little allen screws. Under that cover is one of the 10mm bolts that connect the two case halves. One more hole in the center of that and a longer bolt would give you a little more strength there?? You could also drill it and tap it for a larger bolt to give it even more strength.

Just a suggestion.


Tod

[Guy_b_g]

Tod, I'm pretty sure he means he needs to weld the aluminum tab to the new cover, not weld the tab to the frame.

[oseaghdha]

Tod, I'm pretty sure he means he needs to weld the aluminum tab to the new cover, not weld the tab to the frame.

Yeah, Aluminum don't weld up to steel that well.
But Tods right about those teeny bolts being used for a motor mount.

[trbig]

Also.. the alternator/generator in the pics. What's your plans on that? How do you intend to run a pulley?

Assuming an endurance racer will be wanting all kinds of light that the struggling stock alternator can't handle.

Tod

[Mashermoto]

I'm still recovering from hacking up a perfectly good stainless steel SuperTrapp header...but I digress

[Mathh]

yes, with the welding I referred to the aluminum plate..

You're asking a lot from those 4 little allen screws. Under that cover is one of the 10mm bolts that connect the two case halves. One more hole in the center of that and a longer bolt would give you a little more strength there?? You could also drill it and tap it for a larger bolt to give it even more strength.
Tod

I am not afraid of those 4 little screws. Honda for instance bolts their stock Fireblade rotors with 6 of those tiny M6 screws. The forces on those poor discs while braking are way bigger.
But your remark about the bigger 10mm is excellent, great, I did not see that possibility!

The alternator/ generator will be driven from the front sprocket just like in these pics:





Still thinking about pulley sizes and which alternator to use though. The bike in the pics has a 1:1 pully drive and starts charging at a speed of around 30 mph. That's great for a track bike, but I want to run mine on the street as well. Maybe one from a race car like this one, but I am waiting for a reply on max revs...

[trbig]

So you'll only be generating when the back wheel is spinning?

Also.. the original cap over this vent is cup shaped. It allowed gasses from the crankcase on one side and the middle drive vent to have one hose. By capping that flat like you have, you'll block off the crancase/ blowby pressure, and you'll need to either drill out a hole in the divider there under that cap, or make two different vent holes.

And one other thing.. those screws on a rotor are stopping lateral movement and using their tensil strength. That application is going to test the aluminum threads in an up and down pressure. Just another of my 2 cents.. lol.

Tod

[DiverRay]

Tod,
Look at the picture with the cap off. Do you see at the back of the breather there is a drain from one side to the other? That will take care of the liquid, and a quick bit of work with a dremmel will take some material off the bar between the two chambers for the vapor.
If Mathh drills the holes a little deeper, he could put in 5mm longer screws. That will hold a LOT of weight. Don't forget, he has a tab on the other side of the engine for that mount, as well as the front and bottom mounts.
Great built! I was thinking about pulling the right side crank cover, and putting a pully on the crank instead of the alt that Yamaha used. If you did something like that, you would charge all the time.

[Mathh]

Tod,
Look at the picture with the cap off. Do you see at the back of the breather there is a drain from one side to the other? That will take care of the liquid, and a quick bit of work with a dremmel will take some material off the bar between the two chambers for the vapor.
If Mathh drills the holes a little deeper, he could put in 5mm longer screws. That will hold a LOT of weight. Don't forget, he has a tab on the other side of the engine for that mount, as well as the front and bottom mounts.
Great built!

I was thinking about pulling the right side crank cover, and putting a pully on the crank instead of the alt that Yamaha used. If you did something like that, you would charge all the time.

That is correct of course PLUS I can bumpstart or use the kickstart when the battery is empty if I use a normal alternator with pully drive. That is not possible with a piggy back alternator because they are designed differently. But I already used a crankdrive system on the turbocharged bike. I want this bike completely different. Also i want to shorten the crank for more ground clearance, and maybe convert the stump for use with a portable starting system. That may however come later, top priority is getting the bike running around june - july for our next international meeting in Germany...
Another plus with the separate alternator is the built in regulator and rectifier. That simplifies wiring a bit.

@Trbig: I was referring to the lateral movement and using tensil strength. As Diverray says, there are six solid engine mounts in total.

I just received an email from the seller of this unit click
that he has no clue on max allowed revs... that's a shame..

[DiverRay]

I'll check with my local shop Monday. The part number is a STANDARD one, and I know they can look up the specs for the alternator. You may still be able to use it, just let me know how fast you want to spin the alt.

[Mathh]

I'll check with my local shop Monday. The part number is a STANDARD one, and I know they can look up the specs for the alternator. You may still be able to use it, just let me know how fast you want to spin the alt.

Thanks! It would be nice if it could reach approx 9-10000 rpm (Yam max crank speed). That way I can calculate optimal pully sizes in order to get an early charge (as early as possible) without overrevving it. I know there are race alternators that already charge at idle but usually they start at higher Amps (100+ Amps). Would be nice if you could look into that as well. I picked this alt because of its size.