No Oil Pressure!!

[DGXSER]

thanks Phil, I will try that later tonight perhaps.

Tod, do you know if that pin will slide all the way through the case? Would it be able to go 1/2 -3/4" past where the circlip on the case end of the shifter side of that shaft would meet the case? As stated, I know it would pull at least 1/2" or more to the shifter side of the engine and let the shift pawls overlap instead of meshing, as we first found that issue and realigned/meshed them.

[trbig]

Another option is to right click on the picture file you want to open.. and choose the "Open with" option. Choose the Paint option.

When you save the pic when you're done in paint, be sure to save it as a .jpg file instead of the BMP file.. those are huge!


Tod

[TopCatGr58]

Hey DG,

I've never tried to push that shift fork shaft thru to the other side without having the oil pump idler gear already in place. I remember seeing the pin, and I think that the pin channel only goes so far. The pin is to position the rod and not let it spin, since the cut out on the other end needs to clear the large primary driven gear spinning on the countershaft. So...if the pin is sheared off then the shift fork shaft could spin turn, and it WILL end up hitting the primary driven gear and could lock up the trans!

Here's the photo in the Dremmel fix tech tip that shows that notch in the shaft and the large gear!! The shift fork shaft has NOT been slid into it's final position in this photo, just showing the notch.


So..I hate to say it, but he really should pull it back down to ensure that the pin is there, and if not, replace the shfit fork shaft with one with a pin.

T.C.

[DGXSER]

Thanks TC, that is my opinion as well, and while I certainly understand the desire to see the fruits of all the work put into this beast so far, as in get it running and riding!! it would be a shame to let a small and possibly not to difficult item cause the death of engine/tranny no 2. Which does not seem like a far fetched concept.

I think he will get the picture and do it, and may well be hard at work checking this as we debate it. He lives 2 hours from most of us, so we can't go help out in the evenings to easily. Although I should be going to Indy on Tuesday and could pop in to help out, but I bet he will have it done one way or another by then.

Thanks for all the input and information. I have to say I must have just got really lucky on lining that pin up when I put my tranny back together. Either that or old timers has kicked in hard, cause I do not recall anything about that pin, but I do recall lining up the cutout with the gear.

[bikerphil]

Just checked a spare engine case; the slot for the pin is only 4mm deep.

[DGXSER]

With that info, it seems a lock to me that the pin must not be in there. Sheesh, another part to scavenge from the other engine.

[bikerphil]

If you need to, you guys could probably get a split collar pin at Ace, shorten it if need be, and tap it in. Once it's seated in position, it's not going anywhere. Obviously, don't pull that shaft all the way out or you guys will be fooling with the shift forks.

[trbig]

Looking at this...





There is very little room between the pin and the groove where the first clip sits. Just the pin being gone, it would seem the clip would stop sideways movement to a point. But yeah... for it to move a 1/2" to the left side, it would seem that the pin is gone.

Instead of replacing the whole rod though, you could remove the clips from the shift pawl side so that you could slide it inward towards the clutch side, press or tap another pin into the hole, (It's a simple dowel pin.. not machined on.. and hopefully not broke off in the hole since that would require drilling) But pulling this rod completely is going to displace the shift forks and that would require pulling the oil pan again.

Tod

P.S. And Bikerphil types faster than I do.. lol

[red bandit]

If you do need to pull the shaft out, get another shaft or rod or something somewhat about the same size and push the substitute shaft through, pushing the original shaft out. That should keep the shift forks and what not in place. Do the same to put the original shaft back in. JAT

[Varnae]

Well, I went out last night and didn't worry so much about that dowel pin. I put the gas tank back on and hooked up the fuel lines, turned the petcocks to on, put the key in the ignition and hit the magic button. He roared to life for all of 3 seconds and died. It didn't matter how much I played with the choke or the throttle, he just didn't wanna stay running. The good news is though that the oil light did go out so I think my oil pressure issue is resolved. I will probably at some point go back into the clutch basket and check for the dowel. If it's not there I'm sure it's on my dead engine so I'll just pull it off that one and put it in. Maybe DGSXR can come help me out with that one.

In the meantime, I'll save up some $, as I know my coils are bad by the resistance readings on them and the weak spark I'm getting, and buy a new set with wires and caps. Hopefully that will take care of the won't start issue.

[DGXSER]

Looking at this...





There is very little room between the pin and the groove where the first clip sits. Just the pin being gone, it would seem the clip would stop sideways movement to a point. But yeah... for it to move a 1/2" to the left side, it would seem that the pin is gone.

Yep, I am almost 100% certain it is. I'm only 100% certain when I see it with my own beady little eyes!! Looks like his C-clip for the gear popped off and the gear went with it. Then the inside clip must have been loose and it slid out to the gear slot. So a new clip would not be a bad idea. I'm going to look for a pin ahead of time also.

Instead of replacing the whole rod though, you could remove the clips from the shift pawl side so that you could slide it inward towards the clutch side, press or tap another pin into the hole, (It's a simple dowel pin.. not machined on.. and hopefully not broke off in the hole since that would require drilling) But pulling this rod completely is going to displace the shift forks and that would require pulling the oil pan again.

I'd say that is the route we will go. Drain a little oil out, pull both side covers (shift fork and clutch) and then remove the shift pawl side, just liek the gear fix and slide the shaft out just enough to see / fix the pin.

Ohhh...And Carl found the issue with it not wanting to run, a kinked fuel line. BTDT.

[trbig]

It makes it seem that that motor took a good jolt sideways in the crash you talked about it being involved in, and that rod tried to keep going. I went to see if it was possible that maybe that pin could have drove a chunk of the casing to the inside if it was thin there.. but there appears to be at least an inch of casing there that the pin would have hit against. I guess it may be possible with a sledge hammer..(I've been told I can tear up a ball bearing with a rubber hammer??) but highly doubtfull that rod and pin could have gotten up enough speed to do it itself.


Tod

[DGXSER]

We have not even ran a compression check on the engine that I know of. And we found the oil plug was stripped out, so we swapped it wiht the old engine pan and bolt, found the shift shaft fork out, and now the oil pump gear issue, so I am not shocked at this point that the pin is missing.

It was a front end collision from what was described, so it seems odd it had side force like that. Who knows, we'll get the story on Tuesday if all goes well. Then we can check the carbs out a bit, and then we can find out the tranny gears need grinding, just because.

[DGXSER]

Broken Pin!

Well, no pics ...sorry, but we tore the engine back open tonight. Actually, he had BAD first gear problem, would not even stay on gear. So we tore out the countershaft gears, and of course the shift fork shaft. The pin was broken off in the shaft.

So, we swapped the shaft and the countershaft gears with the old engine. The gears from the old engine looked almost new, so we did the washer swap on second gear and put those in. Should hold up for a while at least, and he can dremel the other ones when he gets the chance.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I feel much better that he will get many miles from this setup now.

[trbig]

One of those.. "I hate that something else was wrong" but also glad nobody will be mad at me for suggesting that you go back into it.

That pin should be softer than the shaft it was in, so it shouldn't be that tough to drill it out, install a new one, then have another spare still.

Tod