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  • #61
    3phase,

    How do you think that Metal Rescue works without attacking the paint or chrome? Acid will destroy them, don't you think? I'd love to know how it works.

    Will an electrolysis bath as discussed here remove chrome?
    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

    Comment


    • #62
      Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
      Will an electrolysis bath as discussed here remove chrome?
      In theory it will not attach the chrome. ALTHOUGH if rust has penetrated under the chrome it will lift that chrome but not well attached good chrome. I am cleaning up some parts doing this, so far I have done the rear fender with good results (probably should have soaked it loner), the taillight assembly, and am currently doing the front fender. I had some bad chrome and rust on the taillight assembly and it really didnt cause any problems with that even.
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

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      • #63
        Yeah, I'm intrigued by 'Metal Recue' too. Way less hassle than electrolysis, and has to be less damaging than any sort of acid bath. The videos are pretty impressive. I've got a Venturer tank that needs cleaning out, and this stuff may be what I'll use.

        Eastwood's 'Metal Wash' is a cleaner/rust prevention treatment; not quite the same thing. It's interesting to note that Eastwood appears to be selling the Armor 'Metal Rescue' re-branded for $15 more per gallon...
        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

        '78E original owner - resto project
        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
        '82 XJ rebuild project
        '80SG restified, red SOLD
        '79F parts...
        '81H more parts...

        Other current bikes:
        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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        • #64
          Originally posted by clcorbin View Post
          When I do that I tend to get very strange looks from the store clerks when they ask if they can help me. My standard reply is "probably not!"

          Then I go on to explain what I am trying to do and they either leave quickly to get away from the crazy man, or admit they have NO IDEA what I am trying to do THEN leave quickly to get away from the crazy man!
          Oh how I know that feeling. I have found that inventive modifications are a part of living with these wonderful machines. I am going to start the process of cleaning my tank, thanks.
          Just ME and my 82 XJ 1100. Mac 4>1-2 1/2" open baffle shotgun, no octy, K&N pod filters, LED tail/brake light & directionals, 750 FD mod, Ear Cannon air horn, modified bars and dash. "Motorcyclists are all bound together by a brotherhood tie through their love of the sport, and what difference does it make what machine he rides as long as he belongs to the clan." Walter Davidson, Dec. 1920 edition of Harley-Davidson Enthusiast Magazine http://s851.photobucket.com/albums/ab78/justme1100/

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          • #65
            Sorry for the delay, I've been jumping through hoops to adopt a pitbull from the dog pound and the rust removal MSDS aren't very helpful.

            After more searching it looks like the alkalies, sodium silicates, may or may not be included in the miracle rust removers but they can be used afterward to stop flash rust. The best I've been able to find so far is that they all use one or more chelation agents like EDTA (ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid) or gluconic acid (sodium gluconate) to remove the iron from rust but not good iron or steel.

            I have found citric acid listed as one ingredient for Evapo Rust along with a few other formulas that use different acids, alkalies, nitrates, phosphates and other chemicals. EDTA can form toxic compounds and none of the formulas would really be safe for humans, animals, metals or the environment. They're all apparently close enough for their technically-legal but vague MSDS.

            Food-grade citric acid ~$3/lb.
            Food grade sodium gluconate ~$7/lb.
            Lab-grade EDTA solution ~$10/liter.

            If $20/gallon for $0.02 worth of EDTA, another weak acid, a buffer/passivator and water seems like a good deal then go for it.

            For more information do a search for: iron + chelation + rust + removal
            -- Scott
            _____

            2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
            1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
            1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
            1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
            1979 XS1100F: parts
            2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

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            • #66
              Interesting..............an' if it don't.........U can at least eat the rest of the orange.......have a safe and happy New Year!
              81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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              • #67
                I just completed electrolysis on an old tank. I ran it about 48 hours with two different anodes, and it looks like I got all of it. I followed up with a phosphoric acid bath, then neutralized and dried the tank. I coated the inside with WD40 to hold it for a while.

                What do I do with the black stuff left from where the rust was? The stuff I can reach rubs off.

                There is some rust left under the filler neck. I'll use a rubber stopper and pour the Metal Rescue into the upside down tank. It won't take much.
                Marty (in Mississippi)
                XS1100SG
                XS650SK
                XS650SH
                XS650G
                XS6502F
                XS650E

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                • #68
                  Go steal some media out of the vibratory cleaner, put a couple of hand fulls inside, and slosh it around with some solvent. Use the big media, 1/2 inch or bigger.
                  Take the petcock and fuel sensor covers off, pour out what solvent you can, and fish the media out.
                  Rinse with solvent, and use your Mighty Vac to suck the residule solvent out. Repeat till solvent comes out clean. CZ

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                  • #69
                    If you coated the tank with WD40, I hope you are not planning on sealing the tank...
                    Skids (Sid Hansen)

                    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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                    • #70
                      I don't want to seal it. The black stuff has to go first anyway. As it turns out, the WD40 is a poor choice as it goes away. It will clean up with alcohol.
                      Marty (in Mississippi)
                      XS1100SG
                      XS650SK
                      XS650SH
                      XS650G
                      XS6502F
                      XS650E

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        Marty, I turned the tank upside down and put the electrodes in through the openings in the side and bottom of the tank to remove the rust from the top of the tank, the overflow pipe and the filler neck. It worked fine but it's tough to keep the electrodes from touching the walls of the tank. Next time I may try that spendy rust remover/converter stuff and see if it works better than shorting out my battery charger.

                        If there're still loose particles and black in the tank that you can rub off with your fingers then it's not done yet. A layer of gunk will slow but not stop the current flow during electrolysis but the fresh water rinse to remove the electrolyte followed by the acid treatment should have removed it.

                        Just clean the tank with soap and water to get rid of the gunk. The sodium carbonate used in the electrolyte is an alkaline soap so refill the tank with electrolyte and let it sit for a while, turning and shaking it occasionally to remove the gunk. If it's really, really stubborn you can use a bottle brush to clean under the filler neck and along the seams at the bottom of the tank.

                        Rinse the tank with cold water from a garden hose and a spray nozzle to remove the loose rust particles, then set it up again and hit it with electrolysis. Follow up with the dilute phosphoric acid again; drain, neutralize, dry, then oil.

                        Do not put the bottle brush back under the kitchen sink when you're done using it to clean the fuel tank....
                        -- Scott
                        _____

                        2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
                        1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                        1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
                        1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
                        1979 XS1100F: parts
                        2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Thanks Scott. I'll do it again. It shouldn't take long. The results are good, so far.
                          Marty (in Mississippi)
                          XS1100SG
                          XS650SK
                          XS650SH
                          XS650G
                          XS6502F
                          XS650E

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            Can't find Phosphoric Acid

                            This is a great thread. I'm in the middle of the electrolysis procedure but can't seem to find any Phosphoric Acid. Been to Home Depot, Lowes, Sherwin Williams, Advance Auto parts but no luck. Any suggestions?
                            80 XS11 SG
                            79 XS750 SF
                            74 KZ400
                            78 KZ650
                            78 KZ750

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                            • #74
                              Coca-Cola has phosphoric acid in it. Buy phosphoric acid at your local hardware store. Home Depot has it, but you have to find a sales associate in the store who knows something. Here's what they have:
                              Marty (in Mississippi)
                              XS1100SG
                              XS650SK
                              XS650SH
                              XS650G
                              XS6502F
                              XS650E

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                Jasco Metal Prep, available at your nearest Home Despot, is mostly phosphoric acid. CZ

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