reviving an old beast

[DiverRay]

just a question which wire is the ground on the bike , the blue wire??

For the turn signals, I'd just run the black wire from the new signals to a frame bolt. That IS how the F is grounded in back, and the hold down bolts in front are the ground.
JAT

[GARTHXS]

good idea!

Sounds like the trick , good one ray

[GARTHXS]

new rubber

so just put on a set of battleaxes they look real nice and that what i have on the 78 so i can swap if i need to . trying to fix all the little stuff like the headlight no power to the yellow wire so i guess ill to trace it back from the front , the relay is good but i think the rld is bad what should it test to and what is the path i need to follow on the relay I got 12v on the r/w wire yellow is about 6v what next rld or should i go farther down the line?? and the blinkers do need to be grounded and i guess ill buy an auto flasher unit

but I took it for a test ride and she runs pretty good , needs a little more air in front and I have to get rid of these superbike bars no leverage at all.

the fuse box is also on my list but heard you can strap the fuses in with an oring around the fuse clamps to hold em in place anybody had luck with that/

[3Phase]

trying to fix all the little stuff like the headlight

Okay, lets go, Garth! Yeeeh-hahahahaha!

no power to the yellow wire

Which Yellow wire? There are two of them:

One Yellow wire comes from the RLU and goes to the Highbeam and Highbeam Indicator. It should only have 12 volts when you switch on the Highbeam.

The second Yellow wire comes up from the alternator (neutral tie at the wye) and should have 5 to 7 volts when the engine is running and the alternator is alternating. It makes the Headlight relay work when the engine is running and the alternator starts alternating.

so i guess ill to trace it back from the front , the relay is good but i think the rld is bad what should it test to and what is the path i need to follow on the relay I got 12v on the r/w wire

I think the wire faded or you got lost. There is a Red/Yellow wire at the Headlight Relay that comes from the Headlight fuse and goes up to the Right-side handlebar switch. It should have 12 volts whenever the key is on, engine running or not.

The Red/White wire goes to the coils, make sure you're not testing the wrong wires.

yellow is about 6v

Hmm... if the engine is running when you measure 6 volts, that would be the Yellow wire from the alternator.

what next rld or should i go farther down the line??

Find a good schematic and a manual? <ducking>

With the key OFF, and the Right Handlebar switch OFF, measure the voltage on the Blue/Black wire at the Headlight Relay. It should be 0 volts.

With the key ON, and the Right Handlebar switch ON, measure the voltage on the Blue/Black wire at the Headlight Relay. It should be 12 volts.

With the engine running and the Right Handlebar switch OFF, measure the voltage on the Blue/Black wire at the Headlight Relay. Again, it should be 12 volts.

the fuse box is also on my list but heard you can strap the fuses in with an oring around the fuse clamps to hold em in place anybody had luck with that/

Glad the bike's running good with new tires but don't mess around with o-rings on the fuses. You'll burn something, eventually. If the fuse clips won't hold the fuses just get another fuse holder from T.C. (new spade type) or from Radio Shack (old-style glass tube type).


So, where are the pics with the new tires, man?


Regards,

Scott

[GARTHXS]

now i am on the right track

Thanks for the reply, when are you going to make a schematic for a 79f the 80g one is great.
Any ways looks like I have some more pokin around and more pics to take!haha Scott when are gonna get that scoot together again ?

I guess ill print out your last post and go from there

[3Phase]

Thanks for the reply, when are you going to make a schematic for a 79f the 80g one is great.

Next winter ... in a warm place.

Apparently, the Headlight ON/OFF switch on the right-hand handlebar control may or may not actually be present on the '78/'79 models but it's shown in every schematic on the planet. The '78 factory schematic shows the lights connected to the wrong wire. After thirty years you'd think someone would have noticed.

haha Scott when are gonna get that scoot together again ?

Well, it's coming together, slowly, as parts arrive. I cleaned the cylinders and the head, then lapped the valves on Wednesday.

Bargain severe -- only $202.48! for a new set of Standard rings and they arrived yesterday.

I call it a bargain! ...

Last night I cleaned the pistons, then re-checked all of the piston/cylinder/ring/wrist pin/connecting rod clearances. Then I checked them again. So far, so good. Of course I'll check them again for final assembly.


I scored a O.E.M. head gasket for $12.00 from eBay and the valve stem seals and camshaft end plugs from Partsnmore. The packages with the cylinder base gasket, cylinder base o-rings and all the other assorted o-rings and seals haven't arrived yet so, today, I'll just be cleaning the 'new' engine case to fit the re-worked transmission, the gears, the bearings and the kick starter ...

the best I ever had!


Regards,

Scott

[GARTHXS]

dammit

so checked the blue black wire no voltage at the relay but i just replaced it so it "shouldnt" be bad then checked the blue/yellow wire at the the rlu so it is bad no voltage. then popped open the fuse box and fiddled with the headlight fuse and broke the top fuse clamp $@$#@$@ SO Will be ordering TCs fuse box today

[GARTHXS]

schematic

so im looking at the shop manual and it says check l/b is that the blue black??

[81xsproject]

I believe that is correct. L/B is = bLue with Black.

[GARTHXS]

correctamundo

I believe that is correct. L/B is = bLue with Black.

yeah I guess the XS gods used up the b with black so the blue is L for lapiz!
found that one out from good ol 3phase

[3Phase]

I had a thought

sort of like a BB in a boxcar!

You don't have the Headlight switch on the right-hand handlebar switch any more but the Red/Yellow and Lapiz/Black wires should still run up the frame to the connector for the switch.

Jumper those two wires at the connector and it will bypass the Headlight relay, like having the Headlight switch ON: the headlight and instrument lights will come on when you turn the key.

Tape it up and it will be ~permanent, bypassing the headlight relay but still using the RLU.


Regards,

Scottt

[GARTHXS]

hmmm?

do you think there will be to much power , will it fry the switch, and what would i do with the black and yellow?

[3Phase]

do you think there will be to much power , will it fry the switch, and what would i do with the black and yellow?

The key switch? The key switches the full load for the whole bike -- it can take it!

I posted a link in your other thread to T.C.'s color schematics in the "Links" forum.

You're just jumpering the harness connector where it hooks up to the entire right-hand handlebar control to simulate a Headlight switch. The harness connector will still have the Red/Yellow and Blue/Black wires running up to it even though your handlebar control has been replaced with one that doesn't have a Headlight switch in it.

Leave the other wires alone!


Regards,

Scott

[GARTHXS]

dimmer

Sorry for the confusion I meant will it fry the left hand switch

[GARTHXS]

parts parts parts

why is it I am always waiting for parts, I just sent tc payment for a new fuse box (d'oh i snapped one of the clips) and also some electrical stuff like a new headlight relay and misc. other stuff , at least the 78 runs good so I can take a break and fire that one up when I get frustrated with the 79f