carb cleaning help

[theduke]

sorry for the beginner questions- it my first carb cleaning.
i belive the inner brass fitting needs to be removed for cleaning, but how should i go about this while preventing damage to the threads?

[theduke]

my pic didnt post. sorry. working on it

[theduke]

**Duke, I editted your link! IF you'll look at the set of 4 URL codes that POP up when you hover your mouse cursor over the photo, below the photo, click on the last one, the IMG tag, copy it, and then paste it into the post you want to post for a picture, and it will show up like this! T.C. **

[TopCatGr58]

Okay, now to answer your question. That is a washer just above the main jet needle/emulsion tube...IF you didn't find a washer when you removed the MAIN JET! Now, that tube comes out from the OTHER SIDE of the carb, the TOP! You need to remove the top cap, the vacuum slide and spring, and then GENTLY push/tap the nozzle tube UP thru the body of the carb, and it will then be able to be removed and soaked, cleaned, etc. ! THere's a small NOTCH/pin in the tube and carb body, be sure to realign that when putting back together. Also, IF the tube doesn't want to start sliding up thru the body, you can put the MAIN JET back into the tube, but leave it a full turn unscrewed, and tap on the JET to get it moving. The Tube is brass, and can be damaged! HTH.
T.C.

[TopCatGr58]

A possible bigger problem!?

Hey Duke,

After taking a look at the other photos, this one caught my eye!!


That big screw in the MAIN JET NOZZLE looks more like a slotted flat head SCREW, not a MAIN JET!? It looks very similar to the pilot jet tower plug screw??

Can you tell us whether it IS a SCREW vs. a MAIN JET? IF it IS a screw, then that carb will NOT WORK!!
T.C.

[oseaghdha]

sorry for the beginner questions- it my first carb cleaning.
i belive the inner brass fitting needs to be removed for cleaning, but how should i go about this while preventing damage to the threads?

Unscrew the main jet 1 turn and give it a rap with the screwdriver handle. That will loosen it and you should be able to tap it out the top. Remove the washer first, though.

[DGXSER]

When I pulled mine apart, I used a wooden dowel to drive it out. Did not take much force at all, but then my carbs looked brand new when I pulled them apart. A wooden dowel is gonna give before you mess up the brass, and this way you dont run the risk of the brass threads getting dorked up by driving against them. HTH

[theduke]

topcat- they do appear to be screws, but screws with a pinhole nozzle through them. after i get them cleaned, i'll post a pic. all four had the same setup.
getting them cleaned will be a challenge though, may involve two or three triple cleans because they've been sitting for more than ten years!
i did remove all the washers above the tube and went to tapping lightly on the tube, but knowing it's brass made me nervous about gouging the threads. a wooden dowel is a great idea. thnx dgxser

[tarzan]

If you get a gallon of carb cleaner (I know most people dont),I take all carbs off the rail and disassemble one carb at a time and soak it .You can hang the carb with coat a hanger wire so the shaft seals dont soak in it,yet the passages will be submersed.It takes a little care to do but it is easier than removing the shaft and butterflies.Before the soak I scrape all excess junk off the carb body first so as to keep as much crap out of the cleaner as possible.Then after ahalf hour of soaking I will pull it out and use a toothbrush and scrub everything I can reach with it then soak again for alittle longer. After the second soak I scrub the whole carb with the brush and cleaner and then spray the whole carb with a can of carb cleaner
to rinse as much junk off as I can. Then I wash with soapy water and rinse with warm water.Then I blow through all passages with compressed air to make sure they are clear.If you take the time to be thorough the first time you wont have to do it three times.
I also soak all metal parts in the basket while I do the body and then clean all those parts off after the body is done.
Then I reassemble.
After I finish one I disassemble another.I always leave at least one complete so if I cant figure out where something goes I have a reference.
BTW-You do not want to mix parts from one carb with parts from another.

[DGXSER]

Mixing parts

I have heard this several times and just wondered why? Obviously it means nothing if your using new components, at least for the new components. Just not sure what difference it would make with exception of the emulsion tube and the needle since they get lined up with each other when you tighten the little plate on top of the needle when someone dismantles them for no good reason and then plays he## getting them lined back up BTDT (on the 81SH model carbs anyway). Nothing else really seems to interact with another moving part that fit-up and wear-in would be a factor. Exception of course being the float needle and seat. That I am sure would be critical.

I used the rebuild kits with all new jets, seats, float valves, and mixing screws. So the only components that went back in were the pilot air jets, the emulsion tubes and the needle/diaphram assembly with spring.

Oh yeah Duke, from experience here, even if you use all new float valves and seats, and set up your floats REALLY carefully, do NOT skip the bench test. DAHIK

[theduke]

topcat- they are definitely the jets, the gunk built up just made them appear to be screws.
now i need helpthough, managed to foul up one of the emulsion tubes- got a little too rowdy with the dowel- as far as replacing, can i just replace the tube, or do i need to replace other parts at the same time?
also, as to cleaning the actual floats- they're filthy- do i use carb cleaner, or something else?

[DGXSER]

Duke, I am no expert so I won't suggest one way or another as far as replcing the tube or the needle with it.

I will suggest that when it comes to these carbs, finesse will win out over brute force and save you ALOT of torture and pain. See my threads on the saga of the mixture screw and carburation. Like I said, my carbs looked like they just came off the factory floor for the most part, but had gotten some gunk from the tank into them. I had two pilot jets that stripped, and one mixture screw. Finally learned that WD40 is no substitute for PB Blaster, and the jets came out (one by way of an extractor).
Tried the extractor in the mixture screw and it snapped off inside of the mixture screw down in the tunnel on the 81 carbs. Long story short, took me two weeks and a visit to a machine shop to get the bloody thing out. Morale is one use heat and or soaking before strength, and two do NOT use an extractor unless it is the last resort. Before that try left handed drill bits (just learned about them AFTER I used the extractor).

[bikerphil]

can i just replace the tube, or do i need to replace other parts at the same time?
also, as to cleaning the actual floats- they're filthy- do i use carb cleaner, or something else?

You can replace the tube only, but I'd get some new jets (cheap) and get rid of those corroded ones. Post the # of the emulsion tube (X-2?) and the jets (137.5 ?), maybe someone here has some spares. As for the floats, carb cleaner and a soft brass cleaning brush. Be careful, they are delicate.

[theduke]

phil- can i soak the floats in the gallon can or use spray?

[bikerphil]

You can soak everything in carb cleaner except the carb bodies themselves. Don't soak anything rubber, such as the diaphragms.